Calgary Jeep Association
4x4 Related Groups => Build Ups => Topic started by: duck454ss on June 10, 2016, 08:42:06 AM
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considering this is my first post i might as well say hi with substance.
I moved to Calgary back in September and spotted this gem sitting in a neighbors driveway and thought "wonder if he'd ever sell it". Well a couple months ago i sold off my over powered dodge 2500 and after leaving a post it on my neighbors front door i bought it.
(http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad245/iamduck82/IMG_5085_zpsbtqtszg2.jpg) (http://s940.photobucket.com/user/iamduck82/media/IMG_5085_zpsbtqtszg2.jpg.html)
2005 LJ Rubicon with a rough country 5.5" long arm on 35's and stock 4.1 gears. I'm pretty sure every heim/flex joint it shot.
I did a walk around when i bought it but didn't take it to a mechanic to lift off the ground. i knew it was rough but apparently it was rougher than i thought. i had to rebuild the entire front end because the previous owner didn't do any maintenance and every bearing was shot. when i got it there were a few engine codes but they all went away once i changed the plugs, but the down side is that it had been running rich for too long and washed out a couple cylinders. she now burns more oil than an old ford flathead with 60,000 miles.
Let the games begin.
Goals:
Jeep:
Swapping out all the heims for Evolution Machine heims (Ordered)
taking 2" out of the lift with Currie springs (eventual coil overs)
Highline tube fenders
37" rubber
4.55's with Jantz JK gear kit in the rear
35 spline rear axles
chromo shafts up front
Eaton lockers front and back (when the stock air lockers die)
truss both axles and sleeve the front
PSC Hyd Assist
Engine (already being built)
rebuilding the 4.0 to a blown 4.6.
Scat rotating assembly with race tech pistons (31cc dish)
Edelbrock aluminum head (ported with big valves)
ARP studs all around
Flowkooler water pump
High Volume oil pump
viper coil pack
8.6:1 CR
03' SVT mustang Eaton M112 blower
Water Meth injection
(http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad245/iamduck82/IMG_5004_zpsgvxiepfi.jpg) (http://s940.photobucket.com/user/iamduck82/media/IMG_5004_zpsgvxiepfi.jpg.html)
(http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad245/iamduck82/IMG_5001_zpswcshumvj.jpg) (http://s940.photobucket.com/user/iamduck82/media/IMG_5001_zpswcshumvj.jpg.html)
(http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad245/iamduck82/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/7AE64F22-31B7-4FBA-B30E-9F35AFA435CC_zpsmtxtozry.jpg) (http://s940.photobucket.com/user/iamduck82/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/7AE64F22-31B7-4FBA-B30E-9F35AFA435CC_zpsmtxtozry.jpg.html)
(http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad245/iamduck82/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/40B8E6FA-713F-4A43-9FA2-0420E88F17FC_zpszitt520s.jpg) (http://s940.photobucket.com/user/iamduck82/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-06/40B8E6FA-713F-4A43-9FA2-0420E88F17FC_zpszitt520s.jpg.html)
only anticipating 350ish HP but with gobs of bottom end grunt
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Nice looking jeep to start with and sounds like you know your way around jeeps.
Looking foreword the seeing you and your LJ out on the trails. The last few years JKUs are starting to out number us.
Just curious with your budget why not CVRs over chromo shafts up front?
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Or RCVs even.
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Looks like a good project. A good jeep to start with for sure. Like the others mentioned, check out RCV axles, their parts are top notch. Keep the updates coming and if you have any questions feel free to ask. A lot of experienced jeepers around here.
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Sounds like a solid build plan, be sure to keep us posted with the progress.
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Oooops my bad.
I should preview be for posting :o.
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It already has JK diffs, or you are swapping some in?
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It already has JK diffs, or you are swapping some in?
I think he means using the Jantz kit to put JK gears in the TJ housing
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Oh I see........
Yeah, I found them.
That's different.
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Ups side to using the Jantz kit is I can run 35 spline axles and have the strength of a D60 equivalent pinion shaft. The weak point will be the ring gear or the differential itself. I have considered RCV shafts but they come with a crazy price tag that I can't justify right now. But they are sweet..... It's slow and steady for now as I can't afford to break or bend anything...
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35 spline rears? How would that work? Do you have to install an aftermarket external wheel bearing housing or they bore out standard set 10's, or do you have to settle with a smaller bearing?
30 spline chomo's in the back of a 44 will suffer a lot of crap. 35 spline weakens carrier internals quite a bit and is overkill, ever for those JK gears. Also makes spares a bitch. I wouldn't spend the extra. You aren't really gaining there.
The front weak point would be the stubs as long as you used CTMs. I don't trust RCV's. A birf is a birf is a birf. Birfs belong in yota's....lol
Good chromo's with CTM's in the front will still outlast those low pinion gears. Even JK's.
Clayton should have D30 balljoints ready soon. Hope you run them and do a review. I want to start putting them in peoples 30's and rubi 44's as soon as they come out.
Are you going to get rid of the Mercedes box and swap a Saginaw in for your assist?
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Oh, how much boost and how much power are you guestimating out of that motor setup? Factory programing? 26lb injectors, or more? I have a Unichip set up from Hesco that is custom programmable if you are interested. It fits your application, but you may want to re-tune it. It was set up for 10.75:1, 4.6L long rod stroker with a Hesco Aluminum head.
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the 35 spline shafts with my intentions is like going after a fly with an elephant gun..... would/will only do it if i ever start grenading parts. I never really got as far as figuring out the external wheel bearing issue...... to even start addressing this portion of the project custom shafts would be made and if i'm doing that i'd probably just machine one off bearings (and make spares). To address the stub shaft issue in the front there are ball joint knuckles (http://www.reidracing.biz/off-road-products/dana-30-44-jeep-knuckles/chevy-heavy-duty-flat-top-dana-44-knuckles-2) that can use cheve D44 outer components. this will eliminate unit bearings and allow me to beef up the stubs. all extreme axle upgrades will be the last step unless i start breaking things left right and center.....
When i do my assist i'll probably be running a PSC kit. Hyd assist isn't my strong point so i'm still learning as i go.
all a work in progress i suppose.... might only get as far as doing chromo shafts and upgrading lockers.... or might just swap out axles for G2's....... all depends on budget at the time but right now i'm focusing on the engine swap.
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Oh, how much boost and how much power are you guestimating out of that motor setup? Factory programing? 26lb injectors, or more? I have a Unichip set up from Hesco that is custom programmable if you are interested. It fits your application, but you may want to re-tune it. It was set up for 10.75:1, 4.6L long rod stroker with a Hesco Aluminum head.
i have a tuner in the states that will be customizing a tune for me. my guess is that i'll be floating around the 350-400hp mark. anticipated boost is around the 10 mark.
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Nice, sounds like a fun motor.
I've been down the knuckle swap and hub kit road with a few clients, and you have to really want them to be worth it. They require so much maintenance out here in the mud, and its very difficult to get a selectable that isn't a piece of crap, good chromo stubs and cheap disposable unit bearings seem to be the win. I've converted, and re-converted back a few people over the years.
The deal with the hydro assist is that after 02 jeep went to a Mercedes box that uses a necked down sector shaft. Prone to breaking. Assist helps a bit, but it really is a weaker box.
Simple solution is to order your assist kit for an 02 or earlier TJ. Comes with a traditional Saginaw box. The swap requires you to cut out and relocate 1 mounting sleeve in the frame. Simple simple, and gets you stronger box that can readily be sourced for parts and service.
Where are you boring your block? Do you have access to a boring plate? We've been considering building one for the club and renting it out, as the only shop we know that has one is in GP. Did you find one locally?
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Oh, if you leave the stock shaft in the front for a bit, they will be ok if you aren't to hard on them, but you do have to tack the u-joint caps in or they fail pretty easy against 35's and don't stand up at all to 37's. The ears are prone to spreading which spits caps, and that's when they let go. Tack the caps and they will hold pretty good for quite a while.
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All my engine machining is being done at Extreme Engine here in Calgary.
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Extreme does not have a boring plate. Great shop, no plate, cause inlines aren't so popular. Are you in a hurry? We are in the process of getting one made, and extreme has told us they would use our plate to bore if we bring it to them.
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Refresh me on purpose of a boring plate? I may be missing something.
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Just googled.... Torque plate/bore plate.... I'd be up for chipping in on one before we do the final bore/hone on my block
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Right on.
I'll get on it right away
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Want me to talk to Curtis at extreme and see if he can make one up?
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just going to toss this out there in case someone has a couple cents worth of info to share.
The supercharger i am using is a mustang cobra blower... i have the intake elbow that would allow me to use a mustang TB. this would be sweet since a stock TJ and aftermarket ones for the jeep wont flow the CFM if i wind this cow to 100%. Mustang and Jeep TPS both share the same voltage sweet so that can be called a win with minor wiring required. MAP sensor is a SRT-4 2 Bar sensor that will be plumbed into the manifold (or the stock MAP location in the blower if it lines up)......
Now here is the tricky part... IAC!!!!!! can i relocate this? has anyone taken a 05 wrangler TB apart and seen how it comes together?
if i can relocate this i can just use a mustang TB, rewire the TPS and shift everything to their new homes.
if i can't relocate this i have to fab a new intake elbow off the blower (PITA), then figure out how to flow the air needed....... one friend suggested running dual jeep TB's. one being the stock one i currently own and the other being a salvaged TB off who cares what model jeep operated by linkage (PITA)....
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Hesco has one up to 68mm. Should flow more than enough.
Its still a 4 litre that isn't going to fair well at more than 5000rpm. A 68mm should flow more than it can take at that RPM. How big is the mustang one?
I do know that corey eventually reached his goal of well over 450hp on this legendary turbo build. He's the guy that helped a lot of us build strokers here over the years. I don't remember him having to go a to a mustang throttle body to make it happen.
Its a very informative thread on boosted 4 litre tech. Worth spending some time in there.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/614289-400hp-pump-gas-friendly-4-5l-stroker.html
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I know him.... Had lunch with him last week. Helped him with his KOH rig back in the day. He's played devils advocate for me on this build..... The difference between his set up and mine is I need to suck air through my TB and he forced air through his.... His TB didn't need the higher CFM because his air was compressed where mine is at atmospheric pressure.....
As for the Hesco TB it won't work because in 2005 they changed the IAC valve set up from a one wire to a two wire. The 68mm TB would be golden for me but alas it just isn't compatible.
I don't need the mustang TB... It would just be easy to bolt one up and walk away.... Anything else requires fab work.
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Ahh, I see what you are getting at. Makes sense. Well that is a challenge.
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Nothing like keeping things interesting.... Easy is over rated lol...
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Would a 63mm or even a 64mm TB be sufficient?
http://www.strokedjeep.com/tbody.html (http://www.strokedjeep.com/tbody.html)
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Pretty sure the stock one is easily bored to that size. Its already 64 or so, it just necks down to 56 in one spot.
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Everything I've read is that the 05-06 TB's can only go to 62~mm.... 62mm is good to flow 450ish CFM.... If I run 9-10psi boost that should be roughly 650-700cfm.... I'd need bigger than 62 to get close otherwise I'll start choking the blower around 3500rpm.
Even that web page says that the 05-06 can go to 62.5mm...
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35 spline rears? How would that work? Do you have to install an aftermarket external wheel bearing housing or they bore out standard set 10's, or do you have to settle with a smaller bearing?
30 spline chomo's in the back of a 44 will suffer a lot of crap. 35 spline weakens carrier internals quite a bit and is overkill, ever for those JK gears. Also makes spares a bitch. I wouldn't spend the extra. You aren't really gaining there.
The front weak point would be the stubs as long as you used CTMs. I don't trust RCV's. A birf is a birf is a birf. Birfs belong in yota's....lol
Good chromo's with CTM's in the front will still outlast those low pinion gears. Even JK's.
Clayton should have D30 balljoints ready soon. Hope you run them and do a review. I want to start putting them in peoples 30's and rubi 44's as soon as they come out.
Are you going to get rid of the Mercedes box and swap a Saginaw in for your assist?
was going some random shopping and found this:
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-18705587-dana-44-tj-chromoly-rear-35-spline-shaft-kit.html
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160616/acaeb0dec92df1a82105d5e444d0cf35.jpg)
Manifold showed up!!!! Taking it to the machine shop tomorrow to get sized up and make a plan for mounting.
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as a huge win today... or at least in theory....
The TPS for a 2005 jeep and a 2003 mustang uses the same voltage sweep and they both use a three wire plug. Standard motor products makes an OEM sensor replacement and a pigtail that i can used to swap over the connector..
As if that wasn't cool enough... in 2005 jeep switched to a two wire IAC valve... 2003 mustang uses a similar two wire IAC and Standard motor products makes a pigtail for this aswell...
as long as the 2bar MAP sensor i'm using (SRT-4) comes close to filling the OEM mustang sensor this guy is laughing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
keep it clean people!!!
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160624/d45abfd1c4ff1d2d2a4ecd2fe49f4554.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160624/f23013ce35e2acb7dfe4f13eedc169ef.jpg)
Pictures from a rough mock up to determine blower position..... Sadly I didn't get a picture of the blower sitting on the manifold.... Guess I was too busy talking about chopping up a manifold.
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Off house boating for the weekend.... Also bought a hard top...(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160707/c05eebc16a3acbd15179b79c642031df.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160707/b988205bb40a651beada999c5dd2a824.jpg)
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no real updates on the motor....... still waiting on parts... LAME!!!!!!!!!!!!
does anyone have any feedback on trussing and sleeving the front rubi 44? ive been thinking about this and the Jana K4 kit (use JK ring and pinion in my diffs) . As a result i am debating doing 9's.. or boldly doing a sixty9 rear with a 9 up front..... searching for the route that has be doing it right once and never worrying about it again. keep it simple and easy to maintain.
google can be a real enemy some days.
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Rotating assembly should be here this week..... And so the fun begins....
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Xmas came early...
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160803/3ef4293a876c504f7d92a859df55dd5e.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160803/d85bcb71bad221b80dd5977cfacf8922.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160803/49ba9bcf2114c9f4b2595d4ebe6cd4bf.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160803/f170be105379c67e922a8bb1f09d1ebc.jpg)
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160803/4535791380106b7ee785927c0563879c.jpg)
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Well i figured i should toss in my engine build specs and maybe help educate some people on what goes into a build like this.
Block is a 97-98 out of a TJ
Deck Height after leveling things off: 9.446"
Edelbrock head w/ over sized valves
Pistons
Bore: 3.905"
Compression Distance: 1.375"
Dish: 31CC with valve reliefs
Rings (Total Seal): top 1/16" AP steel gap-less, Second 1/16" gapped molly coated, Oil Ring 3/16" standard tension
Crank: Scat 258 4 CW 3.895"
Connecting Rods: Scat 6.125"
Piston top should be about 0.015" above the block deck. Depending on what the combustion chamber volume is after cleaning up the head i'll pick my head gasket thickness.
Estimated static CR is 8.5:1 with a head volume of 60cc (55cc from factory) and a 0.050" head gasket. I went with a gap less ring to help keep all that pressure in the combustion chamber. I chose to use an AP steel ring because it can handle big boost and can resist a little abuse from detonation.
Cam Shaft: Comp Cam 68-235-4 ish
Duration: 253/261
Lift @ Valve: 0.477/0.493 (w/1.6 rockers)
Separation: 113 Deg
Intake Center Line: 107 Deg
Overlap: 31 deg (overlap @ 0.050 lift should be almost non existent)
Rockers: Harland Sharp rollers 1.7:1 (0.507/0.524 lift)
Given that the intake on this cam closes 54 Deg after BDC i only have and effective stroke of 3.298". without boost i'll have a dynamic compression ratio of 7.3:1. with boost (10psi) it will sit around 12.3:1.
To feed this monster i'm using an Eaton M112 off of a 2003 Mustang SVT. For every rotation it pumps out 112ci of air assuming 100%VE. The crank pulley is 7.2" and the blower pulley is 3". Based on VE charts i found on the good old interweb at 2000RPM i'll be at 5 psi boost and wont hit 10psi till about 3500-4000RPM. The cool thing about this blower is it has an internal bypass valve. if the boost exceeds max psi it opens a path that connects the high and low pressure sides. Another added bonus to this valve is that if there is enough vacuum behind the TB (between the TB and the blower inlet) it will open the bypass valve. this will minimize the power needed to roll the blower during low load/idle.
now with all that air and my dynamic CR being what it is under boost..... i'll be running water meth injection thats boost referenced. Once i build over 5-6psi boost it will start adding some liquid love to keep detonation down.
seems pretty crazy but if it all comes together it should have wild bottom end torque and get ok mileage for being a 400hp rolling brick lol....
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Well no engine progress to speak of..... But I swapped out some rough country junk heims for some EMF gems... (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161016/c22c41db0a2e4b74731b1d6d331a98ba.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161016/73c1404ad130c10271947db071875644.jpg)
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well i'm bringing this back from the dead because... well its back from the dead.
soooooooo when we went to install the pistons we found out the ring thickness on the pistons was wrong.... they made the grooves too damn big!!!!! after 3 sets of pistons and months they finally got it right. i dropped off the pistons last week and assembly should happen in the next while. ugh this hurts....
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Do you still have the pictures from your original post? they're all photobucket dead links now
Will it be running this year?
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i'll be installing it this spring once i get the LJ out of the snow bank its sitting in.
all the pictures load when i open the threat but i can repost the pics.
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Here are the pics.... hope they load.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180404/8bfda5d9693b3b5b05f4bd4e853351f2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180404/97274da281538f37ade0d0a30ec97cfd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180404/5ebde36b9d6ef1f053236a64ebc6d081.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180404/ec2fc00b646d0f850430005ca056202e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180404/52d0e557ac6660703298cdd547973723.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180404/d1ff21a5c8d3b100a47b0b73494ebb26.jpg)
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well the engine should be done here by the end of the month.....
anyone interested in helping with an engine swap?
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If I was down that way, and not in the middle of my own mess, I'd come give a hand.
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Well..... Its been forever since i've had an opportunity to post about my build.
After install and initial start up the engine had a tapping sound. Initially we fiured it was the rockers hitting the cover so i bought an aluminum cover. This didnt fix the tapping.... then we machined releifs into the valve cover... didnt help...
we dropped the pan just to see if anything was obviously wrong. found that Cyl 1 piston was able to rock within the cylinder on its own. very un-cool.
this was pretty much a year ago and its been a cluster fk getting things sorted. i'm now ditching the blower idea, staying N/A and going to 10.5:1 CR with new pistons. The bad cylinder only needed a hone job so only one new piston was needed.... but you try getting a single piston from a manufacturer. so now i'm committing to replacing all 6 pistons just to get this pig rolling.
oh and on top of it all christmas day my wheels and tires were solen off my rig while it was parked at the shop...... wooooooo.
i just want to go wheeling.
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Glad to see it’s finally getting sorted out and it sucks to hear about losing the tires and rims.
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With the whole wheel and tire theft i'm debating on going with 35's or 37's...... i know eventually i'll need to truss and tube the axles to support 37's. but is there reason to step down to 35's till axle reinforcement is done.
I'd also like to run Yokohama X-MT's but not sure if those are too aggressive. Thoughts?
for wheels i'm going to use hutchinson rock monsters. do it once and do it right.
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With the whole wheel and tire theft i'm debating on going with 35's or 37's...... i know eventually i'll need to truss and tube the axles to support 37's. but is there reason to step down to 35's till axle reinforcement is done.
I'd also like to run Yokohama X-MT's but not sure if those are too aggressive. Thoughts?
for wheels i'm going to use hutchinson rock monsters. do it once and do it right.
X-MT ‘s are perfect!
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X-MT ‘s are perfect!
37 X-MT's it is!!!! now to see how long it takes to get them.
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The Rock Monsters are great. Really easy to remove the hub caps though. I think I have half of one left.
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lets see what kind of feed back i can get.
I did some digging around and came to the conclusion that my dynamic compression ratio with a static of 11.25:1 is comparable to a 9.35:1 static with 3-4psi boost. That means with the Edelbrock aluminum head I should be able to get away with medium grade fuel. Below are my numbers and if i'm on the right track and i'm safe with a 0.0285" quench.
9.446" Deck Height
3.910" Bore
3.895" SCAT Crank
6.125" SCAT Rods
0.040" cosmetics MLS gasket (3.950" bore)
1.385" Piston CD
Comp 235 cam (IVC 54 ABDC)
Piston is 0.0115" above Deck
Quench 0.0285"
14cc dish - SCR = 11.25:1 DCR 8.99:1
31cc dish - SCR = 9.35:1 DCR (w/ 3psi) 8.89:1
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I wouldn’t be afraid to run 91 octane. It’s costs a little more but if you don’t drive it everyday then you may as well have the most power out of it and enjoy driving it every single time.
Especially when you’re running 37’s! Lol
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I wouldn’t be afraid to run 91 octane. It’s costs a little more but if you don’t drive it everyday then you may as well have the most power out of it and enjoy driving it every single time.
Especially when you’re running 37’s! Lol
not so much worried about what fuel to run as is 11.25:1 going off the deep end. running premium fuel just means i pack some octane boost if i'm going into areas where i can only get 87.
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Yay!!!!!!! semi good news. my pistons have finally been made. or so i'm told. just need them the be shipped from the states.
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Yay!!!!!!! semi good news. my pistons have finally been made. or so i'm told. just need them the be shipped from the states.
Just read your whole thread.. what a journey ;) Hope it all works out in the end.
Who is making your Pistons? Russ Potinger? I'm building a stroker and emailed him a couple times over the last two weeks.. haven't heard anything from him :(
Early in your build I see you were debating what throttle body to go with. What did you end up doing? I've settled on a 68mm tbody from a 4.7 dodge v8. A company called TDS makes an adapter which I should receive early next week. Seems like a good way to go.
https://www.tdsideas.com/store/p2/Throttle_Adapter%2C_Jeep_4.0L_Intake_to_Dodge_4.7L_Throttle.html
Your piston slap experience reminded me of this (stroker with same issue):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAkmlvW9fYA
What machine shop did you use? Did you wind up finding a torque plate?
My build will be pretty tame in comparison. My build thread:
https://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6250
Good luck!
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Early in your build I see you were debating what throttle body to go with. What did you end up doing? I've settled on a 68mm tbody from a 4.7 dodge v8. A company called TDS makes an adapter which I should receive early next week. Seems like a good way to go.
https://www.tdsideas.com/store/p2/Throttle_Adapter%2C_Jeep_4.0L_Intake_to_Dodge_4.7L_Throttle.html
Good luck!
I did a 4.6 as well and never bothered with the throttle body, I read up that the stock TJ throttle Body and manifold are already more than capable of flowing enough air for a stroker. I did however spend money on an upgraded cam shaft. I think you are re-using the stock one?
My 4.6 Runs on 87 Octane perfectly fine and is much nicer to drive on the road then the stock 4.0. Even though its not quick by any means.
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Just read your whole thread.. what a journey ;) Hope it all works out in the end.
Who is making your Pistons? Russ Potinger? I'm building a stroker and emailed him a couple times over the last two weeks.. haven't heard anything from him :(
Early in your build I see you were debating what throttle body to go with. What did you end up doing? I've settled on a 68mm tbody from a 4.7 dodge v8. A company called TDS makes an adapter which I should receive early next week. Seems like a good way to go.
https://www.tdsideas.com/store/p2/Throttle_Adapter%2C_Jeep_4.0L_Intake_to_Dodge_4.7L_Throttle.html
Your piston slap experience reminded me of this (stroker with same issue):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAkmlvW9fYA
What machine shop did you use? Did you wind up finding a torque plate?
My build will be pretty tame in comparison. My build thread:
https://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6250
Good luck!
I went with the BBK (edit.. had BDS... they dont make TB's lol) TB because the 05-06 went to a different IAC set up and makes things finecky.
Russ is a solid dude and is swamped lately. If you give him a call he will get back to to. kinda like wrangling a cat some days.
I'd prefer not to name the machine shop due to some of the drama with my build. He's good at what he does but its been a crap show. He has access to a torque plate.
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I did a 4.6 as well and never bothered with the throttle body, I read up that the stock TJ throttle Body and manifold are already more than capable of flowing enough air for a stroker. I did however spend money on an upgraded cam shaft. I think you are re-using the stock one?
My 4.6 Runs on 87 Octane perfectly fine and is much nicer to drive on the road then the stock 4.0. Even though its not quick by any means.
Nice Jrama, I'd like to know more about your build. I'm not aiming to get the most power possible so it looks like I'm trying to achieve a similar end goal. Good to hear from someone that hasn't had their stroker build turn into a nightmare ;)
Yeah I'm not going nuts with my build so the tbody won't make a big difference, but I figure it's all part of the "incremental upgrade" process where each upgrade starts to take advantage of the other. I will DIY port my head. Dodge put a 68mm tbody on a 4.7 liter engine so I figure it can't hurt to put one on my 4.6 so long as I upgrade the intake, port the head, eventually upgrade the exhaust etc.
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I went with the BBK (edit.. had BDS... they dont make TB's lol) TB because the 05-06 went to a different IAC set up and makes things finecky.
Russ is a solid dude and is swamped lately. If you give him a call he will get back to to. kinda like wrangling a cat some days.
I'd prefer not to name the machine shop due to some of the drama with my build. He's good at what he does but its been a crap show. He has access to a torque plate.
Russ did get back to me yesterday. He is assembling a parts list for me. The urgency of my build is completely superficial so I'll give the guy a break, I can only imagine he is a busy dude.
The Grand Cherokee 68mm throttle body that I'm using is the same as found in the 2003+ Dodge Durango or Daktoa 4.7 except that it uses the same IAC as the 2005/2006 Jeep 4.0 and therefore should work fine with the TDS adapter on any Jeep with the newer IAC. I only know this because I picked three throttle bodies from pick-n-pull before getting one with the right IAC lol.
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would have been a nice tid bit of info earlier in the build. but...... this has been such an adventure i may have known it but forgot it.. so many things have changed i've gotten to the point i want it to burn or i'll just throw money at it till its 100%.
with that being said Just Empty Every Pocket..... after the engine, its axles, then cage, and then and then and then....
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Things that make people feel better. 37's and bead locks. (hope the pics worked.... they didnt)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/inj963lthhaswk6/20200722_143001.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gkl90h89v9zpj21/20200722_144345.jpg?dl=0
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Yay I got pics to work
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200808/5887a496644d23be1fa056653a20afc5.jpg)
Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk
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well, she lives and i think i'm finally ready to take her out on the trail. need a fun little shake down run. thinking of heading out to ghost and wandering the river bed.
i'll post more pictures once i'm not parked in the garage.
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Glad to hear it’s running and driving! Keep us posted.
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Well..... i figured i'd post an update.
Drove it around and used ot to bounce between Calgary and Strathmore a few times. 2 things.
1)she pulls like a champ. i mean i'm rolling 37's and beadlocks and it feels like i'm driving around with 30's on a stock jeep. i merged onto Deer Foot and passed a dumbass in a lexus with no issues at all.
2) she loves to drink. cant say that she is best on fuel.
With all that being said. when I did the first oil change she smelled gassy and i've always suspected that she was running a little rich based on the exhaust smell. This all confirms it. So right now i'm waiting to be able to install a proper A/F gauge to see what that looks like. Also the starter isnt consistent and pretty sure it needs to be replaced. Because its 10.6:1 CR the 15yr old starter wasnt happy and struggled. I'd have to bump the starter till a cylinder wasn't in full compression so it could get a "running" start at rolling the crank. This all added to the gassy oil i think.
so right now i'm waiting on 2 Bosch O2 sensors for an Innovative Tech A/F gauge, and a new starter....... AKA i'm broke and jeep is sitting till i can throw 500 bucks at it. Then i will be taking it to a shop here in the city to run on a dyno and get a proper tune. Who knows... maybe i'll get to wheel next summer.
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There’s a couple Facebook pages that deal with stroker 4.0L engines in jeeps and boosted 4.0L engines in jeeps. Both mention that it’s more common now to get plug-in tuners for these newer jeeps and tune them properly. So that’s good news at least. Hopefully with a proper tune you can get it dialed in to run even better.
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Following this :). Interested in what your A/F analysis comes up with.
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There’s a couple Facebook pages that deal with stroker 4.0L engines in jeeps and boosted 4.0L engines in jeeps. Both mention that it’s more common now to get plug-in tuners for these newer jeeps and tune them properly. So that’s good news at least. Hopefully with a proper tune you can get it dialed in to run even better.
The shop with he dyno uses HP tuners and will program it for proper idle, cruising, and WOT. Right now its no worth driving around and risking washing out a cylinder. The facebook groups that i've come across have a ton of information but would require remote tuning since they are mostly in the states.
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Following this :). Interested in what your A/F analysis comes up with.
The cool thing about that A/F gauge is that its meant for a V8 so i can monitor the front and rear cylinders.
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HP Tuners seems to be the common one.