Author Topic: Q: Stock Dana 30/35 (Read 3248 times)

SuicidalPenguin · « **on:** December 01, 2005, 09:45:54 AM »

My comanche has the dana 30/dana 35 combo and I was wondering if it would handle 33's with new gears and lockers. It's got the 4.0L.
I don't want to put money into something that isn't going to work. Thanks.

apex · « **Reply #1 on:** December 01, 2005, 10:32:47 AM »

this thread might give you a little insight.
http://www.calgaryjeep.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1291&highlight=
you should be alright, but that has been said before.

BlackYJ · « **Reply #2 on:** December 01, 2005, 10:33:17 AM »

The D30 will handle it, but the D35 is questionable. It depends on what gears and how much you like the skinny pedal. I am running my D35 with 4.10s, ARB and a 4 banger but I am big on the skinng pedal.

However on the flip side, I know a guy with 35s, 4.56s, ARB and 4.0L and hasn't broken an axle. The main thing is how much power, but I also known a guy with 33s, 4.88, truetrac, and a 4 banger break a couple axles.

Hope this helps

BlackYJ · « **Reply #3 on:** December 01, 2005, 10:34:16 AM »

Damn you Apex, you beat me to the punch, GRRRRR :evil: :evil:

apex · « **Reply #4 on:** December 01, 2005, 11:01:38 AM »

Duped you again! Beat you by a minue that time.

Your job must be as demanding as mine.

cLAY · « **Reply #5 on:** December 01, 2005, 02:55:24 PM »

Think about it this way, do you want to be reiable or be "that guy". The biggest prolem I had was going tru D30 unit bearings like crazy, and that was with 31s. Never broke the D35 with 4.10s, locker and 31s but I didn't even consider keeping the D30/35 when going to 36s for the simple reason that I didn't want to always be forking out for unit bearings.

apex · « **Reply #6 on:** December 01, 2005, 03:11:23 PM »

Quote from: "cLAY"

The biggest prolem I had was going tru D30 unit bearings like crazy, and that was with 31s.

so very true.

I'm averaging a pair a year so far.

BlackYJ · « **Reply #7 on:** December 01, 2005, 03:25:25 PM »

The D30 is definitely strong enough, but hub bearing can be a problem. There are manual hubs kits that are available to solve this. I have seen guys running 36s, low gears and lockers with a D30 and no problems.

SuicidalPenguin · « **Reply #8 on:** December 01, 2005, 03:58:51 PM »

didn't even see that thread anywhere. odd. thanks guys, i'm still trying to make up my mind.

If i had the money i probably would jump to Currie for some axle assemblies.
How far can you get in McLean or Waiporous without lockers? If I can offroad without getting stuck everyother hole, i'd save up for D44's.

And since we're on the topic of axles and whatnot, what's the difference (pros and cons) of regular from a reverse rotation?

TJ54 · « **Reply #9 on:** December 01, 2005, 04:15:24 PM »

Quote from: "BlackYJ"

I own a guy with 35s, 4.56s, ARB and 4.0L

Hope this helps

Tell us more about this guy you own, Scott :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

TJ54 · « **Reply #10 on:** December 01, 2005, 04:22:43 PM »

Mr. Penguin.
You can go along way in off road areas with out lockers, Yes you will get stuck, but you will get stuck with lockers as well.(hint: get a winch) There was a lock right in the for sale section for a D35 http://calgaryjeep.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1356 this is a do it yourself type install, It might not be the best way to go, but it is the least expensive, you could put it in for now while you save for that dana 44, or have you thought about the ford 8.8" National 4WD had some of those for a TJ at a reasonable price, maybe they will fit the commanche as well.
Ian

apex · « **Reply #11 on:** December 01, 2005, 07:08:18 PM »

Quote from: "TJ54"

Quote from: "BlackYJ"

I own a guy with 35s, 4.56s, ARB and 4.0L

Hope this helps

Tell us more about this guy you own, Scott :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

he he he... funny.
:lol:

SP, i'm running open and still get by just fine. You can still end up on your side or your roof with or without lockers. I'm sure lockers would be great to have and when I finnaly get one or two I won't shut up about them BUT for the inbetween time, get some 31's and have some fun.

SuicidalPenguin · « **Reply #12 on:** December 01, 2005, 09:53:23 PM »

got 31's from my dad's Colorado. They suck, but look cool. And they were cheap for almost brand new.
I thought lockers were more expensive than that. And i don't want a winch, unless i can get a used one for cheaper (hint).
Thanks for the info guys. Your help will get my truck offroading earlier.

EDIT: What's the best locker for a DD/Occasional off-roader? EZ-Locker from Tractech?

redbull · « **Reply #13 on:** December 01, 2005, 11:08:55 PM »

Quote from: "SuicidalPenguin"

EDIT: What's the best locker for a DD/Occasional off-roader? EZ-Locker from Tractech?

IMO, the best locker for a DD is an LSD.

(no locker - go limited-slip)

BlackYJ · « **Reply #14 on:** December 02, 2005, 11:32:47 AM »

Quote from: "SuicidalPenguin"

And i don't want a winch, unless i can get a used one for cheaper (hint).

I really think you need to look at a winch more than lockers. Trust me, I am locked front and rear and lockers can get you into some SERIOUS trouble, plus lockers don't get you out once you are stuck and getting stuck is apart of offroading. Get a winch first. You can get a costco winch for about $400 or a good used warn for about $600-800.

Also about your question about reverse rotation diffs. Reverse rotation diffs are better suited for a front application because the gears are cut in the opposite direction and since the diff in basically running in reverse, the cut on the gears transfers power to the leading edge of the gear tooth. However, a lot of companies are making hi pinion and reverse rotation diffs for rear applications.