In case anyone is interested in doing one in the future here is a little info on the build I just completed. My engine was using a ton of oil and I figured I needed to do something about it before the summer season (and I was right!)
Once we had the engine on the stand I could crank it over by hand with medium effort ( no wrench required!) Upon disassembly Cyl 1&2 were completely without compression, you could easily wiggle and clink them back and forth inside the bore, there was also healthy discoloration from the oil they were burning up. Ring groove was so bad we were almost positive it would not clean up at .030 over. You could literally grab it with your finger nails and hold on. All Cylinders had bad ring groove and all would easily wiggle (most would clink inside bore). But I already ordered pistons to fit .030 over so we just had to hope for the best. (Tried looking for another block but failed).
My head also needed to be completely rebuilt, all this on an engine with 110K kms!
Used compatible 4.0's were not easy to come by, 5.3 swap was way pricey and was to involving (even doing a junkyard version, which I wanted to avoid) and I always like to "upgrade" what breaks so the solution became a stroker!
Goal was to be running regular gas, and gain power (of course)
I decided to order everything from 505 Performance and Rock Auto, I used DW as my machine shop (which I would not recommend going forward for reasons I will talk about later) and we assembled the engine ourselves. Used Firebolt for my head and was extremely pleased on price, turn around time and quality.
General info and Questions - www.jeepstrokers.com
Super useful Calculator with all common and modified values: https://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/calculator/
Good complete kits and info: http://www.505performance.com/Engine_Stroker_Kits.html
Save money! www.rockauto.com
Injectors I bought: https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/products/jeep-stroker-4-0-99-2004-injector-27lb-set
-Final Engine Build Specs-
2004 Wrangler 4.0-----4.6
Jeep 4.2L 3.895" stroke crank
Jeep 4.0L 6.125" rods - Re-used from previous motor
Keith Black Hyper +0.030" bore pistons, dish volume 24cc
Moly piston Rings
CAM- 263/267 degree camshaft LSA 114 (505 Stage 1 cam)
Stock 57-58 CC Cylinder head. shaved down .006
Stock size 0.051" head gasket
Decked block to near zero .003
'99-'00 Chevy LS1 26.2lb/hr injectors for '05-'06 engines
Static Compression Ratio 9.3:1
Dynamic at Elevation 7.2: 1
Quench: .048 (you want to keep this # as low as possible to avoid detonation etc.)
Yes it runs Regular gas no issues and pulls MUCH better.
505 Performance- Had doubts due to some negative reviews, but pricing, info and customer service won me over and I ordered from them. Some shipping issues but all relatively minor. I took their stage 1 kit and added some "cost saving" measures lol. Their kit was very complete and overall super pleased.
D&W- I don't know what issues they are having now but it took them a month to get my block done after an initial 2 week maximum time. Quality of work was good, but my block came back chipped near were the crank ride on the main seal in the back...not critical but come on!
Firebolt Engines- Very Cheap, fast, great work rebuilding my head.
Rock Auto- Saved Hundreds ordering my valves and some other parts over the cost of local machine/parts shops etc.
Fuel injector Connection- Some shipping issues (USPS lost my damn injectors the first time) but all is great
We primed the oil pump with a modified junk distributor from a chev 350? and a hand drill, Set the timing, and it started instantly and smoothly like it was running a stock 4.0 which was anti climatic? but great!. Did the cam break in etc. (I am using the stock air intake and exhaust for now)
After initial start up I realized that after driving around a 100 Kms or so it would not rev above 3500 rpm. I thought it was fuel starvation, turns out the Camshaft sensor was dirty...cleaned it boom no issues.
Have about 400 kms on the Motor now I will let you all know if it blows up!
Any questions just ask