0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

duck454ss on June 16, 2016, 01:13:14 PM
35 spline rears? How would that work? Do you have to install an aftermarket external wheel bearing housing or they bore out standard set 10's, or do you have to settle with a smaller bearing?

30 spline chomo's in the back of a 44 will suffer a lot of crap. 35 spline weakens carrier internals quite a bit and is overkill, ever for those JK gears. Also makes spares a bitch. I wouldn't spend the extra. You aren't really gaining there.

The front weak point would be the stubs as long as you used CTMs. I don't trust RCV's. A birf is a birf is a birf. Birfs belong in yota's....lol

Good chromo's with CTM's in the front will still outlast those low pinion gears. Even JK's.

Clayton should have D30 balljoints ready soon. Hope you run them and do a review. I want to start putting them in peoples 30's  and rubi 44's as soon as they come out.

Are you going to get rid of the Mercedes box and swap a Saginaw in for your assist?

was going some random shopping and found this:


duck454ss on June 16, 2016, 03:13:16 PM

Manifold showed up!!!! Taking it to the machine shop tomorrow to get sized up and make a plan for mounting.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

duck454ss on June 19, 2016, 10:47:08 PM
as a huge win today... or at least in theory....

The TPS for a 2005 jeep and a 2003 mustang uses the same voltage sweep and they both use a three wire plug. Standard motor products makes an OEM sensor replacement and a pigtail that i can used to swap over the connector..

As if that wasn't cool enough... in 2005 jeep switched to a two wire IAC valve... 2003 mustang uses a similar two wire IAC and Standard motor products makes a pigtail for this aswell...

as long as the 2bar MAP sensor i'm using (SRT-4) comes close to filling the OEM mustang sensor this guy is laughing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

keep it clean people!!!

duck454ss on June 23, 2016, 09:05:45 PM

Pictures from a rough mock up to determine blower position..... Sadly I didn't get a picture of the blower sitting on the manifold.... Guess I was too busy talking about chopping up a manifold.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

duck454ss on July 07, 2016, 05:02:49 PM
Off house boating for the weekend.... Also bought a hard top...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

duck454ss on July 16, 2016, 06:17:35 PM
no real updates on the motor....... still waiting on parts... LAME!!!!!!!!!!!!

does anyone have any feedback on trussing and sleeving the front rubi 44? ive been thinking about this and the Jana K4 kit (use JK ring and pinion in my diffs) . As a result i am debating doing 9's.. or boldly doing a sixty9 rear with a 9 up front..... searching for the route that has be doing it right once and never worrying about it again. keep it simple and easy to maintain.

google can be a real enemy some days.

duck454ss on August 01, 2016, 09:29:50 AM
Rotating assembly should be here this week..... And so the fun begins....

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

duck454ss on August 03, 2016, 01:22:58 PM
Xmas came early...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

duck454ss on August 03, 2016, 01:23:27 PM

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

duck454ss on August 08, 2016, 10:57:31 AM
Well i figured i should toss in my engine build specs and maybe help educate some people on what goes into a build like this.

Block is a 97-98 out of a TJ
Deck Height after leveling things off: 9.446"
Edelbrock head w/ over sized valves
Bore: 3.905"
Compression Distance: 1.375"
Dish: 31CC with valve reliefs
Rings (Total Seal): top 1/16" AP steel gap-less, Second 1/16" gapped molly coated, Oil Ring 3/16" standard tension
Crank: Scat 258 4 CW 3.895"
Connecting Rods: Scat 6.125"

Piston top should be about 0.015" above the block deck. Depending on what the combustion chamber volume is after cleaning up the head i'll pick my head gasket thickness.
Estimated static CR is 8.5:1 with a head volume of 60cc (55cc from factory) and a 0.050" head gasket. I went with a gap less ring to help keep all that pressure in the combustion chamber. I chose to use an AP steel ring because it can handle big boost and can resist a little abuse from detonation.

Cam Shaft: Comp Cam 68-235-4 ish
Duration: 253/261
Lift @ Valve: 0.477/0.493 (w/1.6 rockers)
Separation: 113 Deg
Intake Center Line: 107 Deg
Overlap: 31 deg (overlap @ 0.050 lift should be almost non existent)
Rockers: Harland Sharp rollers 1.7:1 (0.507/0.524 lift)

Given that the intake on this cam closes 54 Deg after BDC i only have and effective stroke of 3.298". without boost i'll have a dynamic compression ratio of 7.3:1. with boost (10psi) it will sit around 12.3:1.

To feed this monster i'm using an Eaton M112 off of a 2003 Mustang SVT. For every rotation it pumps out 112ci of air assuming 100%VE. The crank pulley is 7.2" and the blower pulley is 3". Based on VE charts i found on the good old interweb at 2000RPM i'll be at 5 psi boost and wont hit 10psi till about 3500-4000RPM. The cool thing about this blower is it has an internal bypass valve. if the boost exceeds max psi it opens a path that connects the high and low pressure sides. Another added bonus to this valve is that if there is enough vacuum behind the TB (between the TB and the blower inlet) it will open the bypass valve. this will minimize the power needed to roll the blower during low load/idle.

now with all that air and my dynamic CR being what it is under boost..... i'll be running water meth injection thats boost referenced. Once i build over 5-6psi boost it will start adding some liquid love to keep detonation down.

seems pretty crazy but if it all comes together it should have wild bottom end torque and get ok mileage for being a 400hp rolling brick lol....

duck454ss on October 16, 2016, 03:19:31 PM
Well no engine progress to speak of..... But I swapped out some rough country junk heims for some EMF gems...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk