what a tcase looks like when it blows up at 120km/hr

[Spinalguy]

Ask the service manager to give you a detailed explanation, in writing, of why and how the lift and tires caused the failure. Keep asking questions, when he says the bigger tires put more stress on the t-case, ask him in what way, make him explain the physics involved.. When he says the lift caused unacceptable u-joint angles, ask him what is the maximum angle a Spicer u-joint can be operated at (and then go to Spicer to find out what is the maximum angle).
The point is, keep harassing him (but always be polite and courteous), make him put everything in writing, make him write you a book about the reason's for denial.
Do not threaten legal action unles you are prepared to go through with it. I read somewhere a few years ago that once the customer threaten's legal action, the dealership is advised to cease all communication with the customer and get their lawyers involved.

Don't back down too quick, keep challenging them. If they say something like they were advised by DC not to cover modified vehicles, tell him you want to see a copy of the correspondence from DC. If you keep asking for more and more details, the SM may just change his mind and cover it just to get rid of you.

I would keep it at the same dealer ond try a bit harder before taking it away. As Bill said, it is a waste of time taking it to another dealer once it's denied warranty.


In a nutshell, just become the biggest pain in the arse he has to deal with, but as always, remain polite. You don't want to give him a reason to refuse dealing with you. And always insist on talking to the same person, don't let them pass you around to different people.
Good luck.

Vince

Good advice.
CJA used to be sponsored by that dealership.
Maybe mention that and how Troy Blaskin formerly of Blaskin and Lane spoke highly of them and their knowledge of lifted jeeps and not voiding warantees.
It is the responsibility of the dealership to PROVE the failure was a direct/indirect result of the modifications. i would pursue this to the end with written explanations.
PS, buy yourself an AMA plus card and you can tow it to where you want!
Good luck
 

[cLAY]

AMA will only tow a vehicle once per break down. So if you used it to have it towed to shop and then decided not to have that shop fix it and want it towed elsewhere you are on your own.

In their eyes they are offering ROADSIDE assisstance. Once its at a shop they no longer consider it roadside. Now will they pick up your parts vehicle and move it to your new house if you were to move. Unless you know an AMA contractor who would fudge the report for you.

[BlackYJ]

Don't know if my situtation was any different but when my jeep broke down in Montana, I had it towed to Great Falls and then once the diagnosis came back I had it towed back to Calgary.  The first trip just was a deduct from the total miles allowed on the membership

That 1 tow clause might only be for the basic membership

[Spinalguy]

Yep, AMA tows me all over :lol:

Twice i have been towed home and than towed to a shop.
i guess my point was that Elsifer could have been towed to any shop he choose or HOME. With Chrysler roadside assistance, its always towed to the CLOSEST dealership and that SUCKS :twisted:

[Bnine]

Oh, and lastly, if you talk to Rick, he can fill you in on a lot details.

If you do want a different shop (which I would recommend, I didnt notice where you where previously) I would go to them before hand, tell them you want to bring your rig in, and get a second opinion.

I would not waste my time at that location (or let them work on my junk having seen what happen to Ricks).

I'll probably get my hand slapped for all that, but oh well.

Pm me, or even easier, just give me a shout at home, and I can explain in a lot more detail.

[imbezol]

Can't you just put the more readily available and less expensive 231j into it and change the flange on your rear driveshaft to a yoke style? You could probably have everything back up and running for around $500. If at some point you want to drop in the Tera-Low 4:1 kit to get back to a normal gearing setup instead of the 3:1 the regular TJ has then you can do that too. The 231 has a better rep than the 241 anyways.

[frenchy]

Did it feel like it was in 4x4 ?

You didn't try to throw it in 4x4 on the highway did you ?  :lol:

[Bnine]

Can't you just put the more readily available and less expensive 231j into it and change the flange on your rear driveshaft to a yoke style? You could probably have everything back up and running for around $500. If at some point you want to drop in the Tera-Low 4:1 kit to get back to a normal gearing setup instead of the 3:1 the regular TJ has then you can do that too. The 231 has a better rep than the 241 anyways.

What?

Where is the bad rep about the 241?

Have you seen both them taken apart? A 241 has a strength rating of nearly 5 times what a 231 has  :roll:

Not sure where you get your info, but you need to stop listening to whoever is feeding you those lines...........

[imbezol]

I've never heard a 241 was "bad".. I've just read a 231 is more desirable in a JP magazine. Anyways, just trying to think of a solution to the problem.

[Gearhead]

I wish I had a 241 , been day dreaming of how to build a superstrong 231 with deep gear reduction in low , extra wide chain , two low , at the end of the dream I decided  it'd be cheaper to just go find a 241.

[Bnine]

I've never heard a 241 was "bad".. I've just read a 231 is more desirable in a JP magazine. Anyways, just trying to think of a solution to the problem.

Yeah, not that a 231 is bad either, but it just isnt nearly the amount of case a 241 is.

32 versus 27 spline outputs. Fixed output stock on 241's. 5500 ft lbs versus 1600ft lb torque ratings.

Bigger chain, bearings, and planetaries.

Only negative to a 241 is its length and height.

For Chris to get a 231 to work in his rubi he needs a VSS equpped SYE, 400$, and would need 2 new driveshafts 800$. In addition, a 4:1 conversion is 1300$

2500 vs 1000 to build and install an inferior case.

Wouldnt be my choice by anymeans.

[Bnine]

I wish I had a 241 , been day dreaming of how to build a superstrong 231 with deep gear reduction in low , extra wide chain , two low , at the end of the dream I decided  it'd be cheaper to just go find a 241.

For that money Jeff, I can get you an atlas with cable shifters and 32 spline outputs front and rear.

[Elsifer]

I've found a tcase, gently used, same as what blew up. So minimal effort to change it out, and deal with stuff like yokes, flanges, etc.

I'm still going to school in jan&feb, and not getting a new truck for dd.

I figured that 4th year rate and one vehicle is better than floating two vehicles at 3rd year rate.

I'll be back on the road the evening of the 28th. Thanks all for your input and suggestions.

The service manager would love to fix my heep, but he say its DC's policy not to warranty modified drivelines. I didn't ask for that policy on paper, nor did I press the issue further. Even when I displayed recommended driveline angles from spicer. So, I guess he or DC just don't want the headache. And I don't blame then, I can be quite a headache!
So, I am gonna fix it myself, and come august when I buy out my lease, DC will never see my rig again. Plain and simple.
Plus, I think that I will never buy another new DC vehicle again, I'd rather push a Ford than drive a Chev. And I've pushed my DC a few times!

Have a Happy HoHo, I know I will. I'm not wheeling boxing day, but you will see me in Jan&Feb on the trail.

Thanks all!

[jpthing]

you still need a tow?

you are entitled to warranty unless the vendor can prove the modification caused the problem.

This is the law.  Why don't you pursue this a little further?

I would be prepared to take it up with them on your behalf , for a small fee......say 35% of the value of what I could get for you...lol..I am rarely denied any warranty that I am entitled to.. .generally,  discussing it for a few hours on a few occasions will solve the problem, they will just be sick of having to be polite to you while you chew them up and refute every point they make. The key is to be a complete a$$hole but very civil at the same time....ahhh a lost art, methinks!   It can also work to ask questions, loudly enough for other customers to overhear, in an indignant tone, like "so if someone walks in here and buys a brand new jeep, you'll refuse warranty coverage just because they took it offroad?" it doesn't matter what you ask or what the answer is, just that the management begins to feel uncomfortable without having any justification to ask you to leave or stop dealing with you. Picketing is also a form of recourse that may be effective, often just the threat will get results. mention that a number of your buddies you talked to think this is BS and they're prepared to come down with their families and picket signs saying "don't trust jeep" or "warranty?  What warranty?" or something.....many years ago a friend was not paid by a restaurant he had painted for....10 minutes of picketing and a cheque was in hand.....

If you want to write these guys off, do so. but I would try to squeeze them for every penny first. remember you paid for the warranty, you own it, you are entitled to it...it is not something they can just not do if they're not feeling nice.

The onus (legally speaking) is on them to prove that the problem was the result of your mods...this would not be possible to prove unless your lift wasexcessive but it looks like maybe only 2-3" over stock, no?

Good luck whatever you decide to do!

_Boone

[Tribal Jeep]

You could also bring it to Jeep, in front of all the THOUSANDS of jeepers, on their OFFICIAL JEEP facebook group.
Even just a short sentance and a link to this thread. That would be pretty embarrASSing.

Just a thought.

*There are 17'079 members of Jeeps official Facebook group. It grows by about 1 - 50 people a day.* /ed.

Jeeps advertising their facebook group off the official site here (bottom left of the page):
http://www.jeep.com/en/experience/community/index.html