Calgary Jeep Association
4x4 Related Groups => Tech Talk => Topic started by: tcharon on August 16, 2009, 01:15:16 PM
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Has anyone had any experience with installing Staun internal bead locks inside any type of regular bead lock wheels? I happen to have Poison Spyder Customs, Spyderlocks and already have a set of Stauns. I've burped air from the Spyderlocks so want to use the Stauns to help with the inner beads and be a run-flat, but have heard the rims will cause rips in the Staun tubes. Can anyone help with info?
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It was my understanding that if you had good beadlocks installed properly you couldn't "burp" a tire or lose a bead without pretty much destroying the tire or rim.
Again, as I understand a beadlock has a ridge inside that the locking ring pushes the bead against, so there shouldn't be exposed bead that the Staun can push against, it would more likely contact the sidewall and cause distortion, though I suppose it may contact the rest of the locking ring.
Just my understanding of the mechanics of it. Perhaps one of the really tech guys could enlighten further?
Thanks, they can burp at low air press but don't loose the bead. Staun says most rims will cut the tubes. Just hopeing someone has had experience.
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i think haveing one or the other would be a better idea. using both wont really work. if the beadlock rim is the usual design. ive installed a few sets of stauns as well, and pretty much all of them leaked. and everyone else that has installed them had leaks as well. once you fix the leaks though they seem to hold up. the problem was you had to use the special tubes from staun, which is not next door to your sister. you gotta order them in and wait... wait... wait.
i think there are a couple new companies using hte same idea now but with motorbike tubes, which you can pick up your self at any bike shop.
the staun is nice for the double beadlock system, the regualr rim beadlock is nice for simplicity sake and you can do them yourself at home.
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Hay, thanks for the input. I do have one extra tube and would like to have the advantages of both. Makes me feel safer on the trail and may reduce the need for that big spair. I will try that cycle tube idea if can find the fully threded stem. How did you fix & what's the leaking problem?
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Staun beadlocks will not work with those mechanical beadlock wheels.
Leaks are often caused by not seating the valve stem properly.
A little windex or water should help it slip into place properly. Some wheels require you to shape the air channel to contour the wheel. 2 grommets are included, make sure the correct one is used for that wheel.
And/or
Tires, some tires have sharper inside bead edges, easy enough to smooth them down so they can't cause any problems.
I have some spare tubes if you wreck one. Other sizes are only about a week away for shipping.
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I use the Staun internal bead locks and had numerous leaks. Once we got the correct procedure to install them from Staun, I haven't had any more leaks or problems. I do agree that you should use one or the other, not both.
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Thanks for that, but I just don't see why I can't have both advantages. Nothing I saw inside my rims was sharp enough looking to cut the tubes.
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The Staun beadlock case does not reach the inside of the tire bead and it seats irregularly against the metal of the beadlock and blows tubes.
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The Staun beadlock case does not reach the inside of the tire bead and it seats irregularly against the metal of the beadlock and blows tubes.
Any fix you know of?
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Hutchinson DOT Dual Beadlock
(http://www.quadratec.com/jk_wrangler_showcase/jeep_wheels/images/Hutchinson_Rock_Monster_Wheels.jpg)
(http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/images/Rock%20Monster%20Bead%20Lock.jpg)
drrrrroooooooooooolllll
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Any fix you know of?
No "fix", they're not really broken, just not designed to be installed with other products inside a tire.
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The Hutchinson is nice but doesn't act as a run flat, not in 9" and big bucks. Still looking for a way.
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i dont know what you mean by run flat.
why do you need 9" ?
and yea they were pricy when i got my walker evans, probably the price of spider/staun combo. if i remember correctly they were about US$100 more each
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Run flat is where your tire goes flat and you can still run on the flat cuz the inner tube & balistic nilon caseing holds the rig off the rim beads cuz it still has air in it. I already have both rims & Stauns & needed 9" cuz my Stauns are for 9 to 10.5" rims and wanted to have more sidewall outboard, 8" would have been too narrow for my Stauns. But, Thanks.
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I use the Staun internal bead locks and had numerous leaks. Once we got the correct procedure to install them from Staun, I haven't had any more leaks or problems. I do agree that you should use one or the other, not both.
I had one leak in mine after a year and a half... National fixed it and it's been good ...
I got a set of Staun for the GF also ... I like them lots... Thanks Frenchy ;D
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Definitely worth having, I used to hate my baja claws at 12 psi, at 6 psi I love them. They'll crawl up anything, just need to watch those side walls in the rocks! :o
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On my Allied beadlocks , the innner bead is glued and has never leaked or become unseated.
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On my Allied beadlocks , the innner bead is glued and has never leaked or become unseated.
That's the 1st I've heard of that. How long has it been that way, have you aired the tire all the way down and checked to see if it is still glued or just hasen't been stressed enough to burp? What did you glue it with? Thanks.
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That's the 1st I've heard of that. How long has it been that way, have you aired the tire all the way down and checked to see if it is still glued or just hasen't been stressed enough to burp? What did you glue it with? Thanks.
They've been glued since 2007 , have been aired down numerous times.
The glue ? , was about $45 / pint , is an adhesive for tire beads , purchased at auto value , I suppose it could be found anywhere , tires are sold , if you asked for it . The tin of glue hasn't been opened since I used it the one and only time in 07 , it wouldn't surprise me to find it cured into a solid glob of adhesive.
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Thanks. When you aired them down to 0 pounds did you check to see if they were still glued well or just never had a problem? Do you wheel, well aired down? Again, thanks.
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if you want a run flat and double beadlock look at the hummer rims. there are companies i nthe states that remove the centres and put whatever centre in you'dlike, as in any bolt pattern and whatever offset you want. and they have the run flat ring in the middle. and they are a double bead lock like the hutchisons, just much cheaper. downside is they only come in 16.5" diameter. i think stazworks builds the same thing just any size.
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Thanks, I already have rims and Stauns so a full new direction isn't for me.
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Wheel with zero air pressure ? , Why ?
I'd rather not mess up the side walls , or a rim on rocks.
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Wheel with zero air pressure ? , Why ?
I'd rather not mess up the side walls , or a rim on rocks.
Sorry, you missunderstood. Not wheel, just check. They could have become unglued and you wouldn't know it unless you aired to 0 & checked. The 2nd part about wheeling is a ? as to what pressure you wheel at & do you do big rocks or just mud & sand mostly. Trying to get an idea if they will stand up to sharp rock wheeling that might burp them or not. Thanks for all this.
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A simple inner tube is enough to keep your regular beadlock from ever burping on you.
Unlike when using a staun where it is the primary lock and you need high pressure, a regular beadlock if it has burping issues just needs a low pressure inner tube to maintain a bit of pressure on that rear sidewall.
I've never had to do it with my locks, but my freinds in california do it a lot because of such aggressive rock crawling that they do.