Calgary Jeep Association
4x4 Related Groups => General Talk => Topic started by: 1988 Cherokee on March 13, 2010, 12:29:39 AM
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How do I wire a 4-pole from this......
(http://shop.oreillyauto.com/product_images/img/pil/11-3064-01.jpg)
to these F150 tail lights (below) on a trailer. Notice how this one (below) is blinker, brake, running all in one. The one above is off a cherokee, yellow blinker, red above brake lights, red all is running (above red, and below red).
(http://images04.olx.com/ui/1/64/58/1445658_1.jpg)
The reason I ask is because the current setup is the round, 7 (I think) wires on my hitch, but 4 pole trailer, gunna be converted into a hillbilly type travel trailer.
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If you already have a 7pin on the tow vehicle, then just get a 7 to 4 pin adapter.
But if you are rewiring...the go here --> http://www.etrailer.com/landing.aspx?nav=electrical (http://www.etrailer.com/landing.aspx?nav=electrical) and you should be able to find the adapter you need. They just plug into the stock wiring and give you the 4 pin trailer wiring. Voila!
If you're stuck on doing the wiring yourself, then you'll need an adapter to go from the separate signals to a Stop-Tail-Turn all in one. I've got one sitting in the garage if you're stuck...
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http://www.accessconnect.com/trailer_wiring_diagram.htm
the 1157 bulb has 2 filaments
1- brake and turn (the brightest one)
2 - running lights (not so bright)
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The Cherokee uses separate bulbs for turn and brake signals. When wiring a Cherokee for a trailer you need a special diode converter box to merge the signals. You can get them at most parts places for about $40-$60.
On my XJ the box was tucked into the passenger side taillight.
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You can also get one at PA for under $20...they also had some actual reese ones in surplus for even less.
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Thanks
Finding most of the truck trailer boxes around are unregistered. Had one in mind but dont want to drop extra $50 for registering and driving with no trailer plate. I keep changing the way I want to go in my mind.
Travel Trailers are heavy with some needing little work on them, but everything already laid out. But tow vehicle needs work.
Truck Bed Trailers are too high, normally unregistered but cheap.
Utility Trailer, new $750, used $400. Narrow wheels, limited load weight. Lots of work and a $100-$200 to convert to slide on camper.
Then I add in private sale, could be stolen.
Going with used trailer from dealer. Going to hit up Airdrie Trailer and look in yellow pages.
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I strongly advise against a truck box trailer. For the weight they haul they are a VERY heavy trailer, even when empty. I bought one for my dad to haul garbage from the acerage to the dump and even empty it was pretty heavy for my XJ and hauled like crap, all over the place.
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Walmart has some good painted steel ones with long 5.5' hitch bar, expensive at $1100 for a 4.5'x7.5' but plenty for sale used. Will be going this route new or used because its easy to weld to make it longer and wider.
Home Depot is a little cheaper but galvonized steel with short V hitch bar. Same size $980. My buddy says welding galvanized is hard. So this one is scratched off the list.
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Not hard, jsut nasty and bad for you.
What are you looking for, whats the end goal? I personally don't like those Home Depot trailers, they look pretty cheap to me. Should be able to pick something up used thats beefier for the same price.
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Hooked up the diode box for trailering. Got it at the junk yard. Just followed where the T-Connectors are to stock connectors. Cut it on the other side, for reference. Ripped it all out, pocketed it and bought some food at consession for Karma's sake. 14-18 GA T-connectors (Blue) at Canadian Tire. 2 packages, of 3 each cuz I need 4. Vice grip the metal tab in, clost plastic, tape.