Calgary Jeep Association
4x4 Related Groups => General Talk => Topic started by: BlackAura on May 26, 2010, 02:13:54 PM
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EDIT: So.....this is at least the second thread I've started regarding a vehicle I'm looking at...I'll have to start putting them all in the same thread until I actually purchase one :p
A couple posts below I've linked the ad, and some information he emailed me in addition to what's in the ad on craigslist.
The post after that contains the pictures he sent me.
If anyone has any thoughts regarding the vehicle that would be great, thanks!
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Original Post:
Hey guys, I've been lurking the classifieds on a few sites for a while now, and I've seen a couple Rubicons come up without the hood lettering. I'm wondering if this is a somewhat common thing (i.e. people don't want to advertise they have a rubicon, less chance it'll get stolen?), or if it could be an indicator of front end damage?
An example would be:
http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-SUVs-trucks-vans-SUV-crossover-2006-Jeep-TJ-Rubicon-W0QQAdIdZ203141874
EDIT: This is not the one I'm looking at, see below.
I'm just wondering because I've found a pretty decent deal on a 2003 Rubicon with 155k kms, second owner, no accidents (according to the current owner, who checked carfax before he bought it). But it doesn't have the lettering on the hood. It does have the Rubicon rims though, and he specifically lists the 4:1 Tcase and locking dana 44s.
Unfortunately it's not in Calgary, so it's not easy for me to go look at it (I'm waiting for him to email me some high quality pictures).
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Get the VIN and run a CarProof on it, CarFax in Canada is fairly useless. Also get pics of the locker switches and the VIN plate, you can never be too sure.
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langdon is 20 minutes from calgary.
doesn't look like a rubicon. front pumpkin isn't pointy at all
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the one in the add is a TJ sport is it not? I see he likely removed the "TJ" letters, so its a safe bet he would have removed the "Sport" also.
one reason for not having Rubicon lettering.
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Er....here's the one I'm actually looking at, it's a bit harder to check out because it's in Vancouver.
http://vancouver.en.craigslist.ca/bnc/cto/1758207199.html
2003 TJ Rubicon
154k kms
hard top only
He's the second owner, purchased it used from a dealership in Oct 2009 with a 3 year powertrain warranty (good for 60k kms, has 52k kms left on it).
Recent work include brake pads, rotors, calipers (not sure what work is done to the calipers...usually just the pads and rotors), front u-joints, and rear transfer case seal (not sure if he meant rear diff?).
He also emailed me a bunch of pictures, which I'll post up here. Seems to be a little bit of surface rust on the suspension components, but doesn't look like it's been off roaded much (or it's been cleaned up a lot since).
Regarding the hood, he says "I believe the previous owner replaced the hood and repainted it, I didn't really ask the salesperson."
Get the VIN and run a CarProof on it, CarFax in Canada is fairly useless. Also get pics of the locker switches and the VIN plate, you can never be too sure.
That sounds like the best bet. I'll do a quick google search and see if the Rubicon's had some significant difference in their VIN codes over the TJ sports.
Edit: My thoughts on it:
- It's priced better than most of the ads I've seen so far, but I haven't really seen any with more than 110k kms, so that's reflected in the price.
- Transfer permits in BC can be funny apparently, i.e. they're only good until midnight, but you can drive back in ~12 hours so not a huge deal.
- I'd have the additional cost of the Out of Province Inspection, plus I'd want to get one done in BC before I purchased it (my uncle lives out there andcan probably get that done for me), so paying for two inspections
- He's financed it, so when purchasing we'd have to go to the finance office and work out the details such that there wouldn't be a lein on the car after I've purchased it (i.e. some of my purchase amount would go to the financing company, and he would get the rest)
- Warranty might be at the one dealership he bought it from only (since it was a 3-year/60k-kms powertrain warranty, starting Oct 2009
when he purchased it), so it may not transfer to Calgary. My friend mentioned that the warranty may allow for cancellation and some refund of the cost of it)
- Even though the Rubicon decals are missing, there are visual cues that it's a Rubicon (the axle locking switch on the dashboard, and the rims are the Rubicon ones). Rims would be easy to purchase and put on there, but the axle locking switch would take a bit more effort. (As mentioned by WhiteOut).
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Here are the images he sent me....hope this works, my personal server is down so I have to use photobucket:
http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy332/DJKaotica/2003%20Jeep%20Rubicon/Picture001.jpg (http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy332/DJKaotica/2003%20Jeep%20Rubicon/Picture001.jpg)
http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy332/DJKaotica/2003%20Jeep%20Rubicon/Picture002.jpg (http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy332/DJKaotica/2003%20Jeep%20Rubicon/Picture002.jpg)
http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy332/DJKaotica/2003%20Jeep%20Rubicon/Picture003.jpg (http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy332/DJKaotica/2003%20Jeep%20Rubicon/Picture003.jpg)
http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy332/DJKaotica/2003%20Jeep%20Rubicon/Picture005.jpg (http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy332/DJKaotica/2003%20Jeep%20Rubicon/Picture005.jpg)
http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy332/DJKaotica/2003%20Jeep%20Rubicon/Picture007.jpg (http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy332/DJKaotica/2003%20Jeep%20Rubicon/Picture007.jpg)
http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy332/DJKaotica/2003%20Jeep%20Rubicon/Picture008.jpg (http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy332/DJKaotica/2003%20Jeep%20Rubicon/Picture008.jpg)
http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy332/DJKaotica/2003%20Jeep%20Rubicon/Picture011.jpg (http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy332/DJKaotica/2003%20Jeep%20Rubicon/Picture011.jpg)
http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy332/DJKaotica/2003%20Jeep%20Rubicon/Picture012.jpg (http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy332/DJKaotica/2003%20Jeep%20Rubicon/Picture012.jpg)
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for all the looking you're doing whats your price range? if you have 15k, buy a built jeep already like a Yj with air lockers on 35s and get a strong daily driver as well........ i know a guy with a red YJ who'd part with it ;)
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Looks like there is a switch for the lockers...
Johnny, you are being silly.... again.
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Both Jeep have the rubi flares and rocker guards as well. Only the rubis came with those flare. They are the same as the sahara's but not painted. The easiest would be to ask for a picture of the front axle to see the pumpkin and that will give you your answer very quickly.
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i would be very cautious. Looking on Ebay, there are NO Rubicons even close to that asking price. Most are $5000+ more.
Ebay usually has the best deals on USA rigs for sale. If there is nothing close to that on Ebay, it makes me think that this one is a scam.
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It has a 710 cap behind the air intake.... it must be a Rubi
;D
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Both Jeep have the rubi flares and rocker guards as well. Only the rubis came with those flare. They are the same as the sahara's but not painted. The easiest would be to ask for a picture of the front axle to see the pumpkin and that will give you your answer very quickly.
Ohh, thanks, those are great points I never thought about! (as per below I'll see about getting some more pictures, including one of the front diff).
It has a 710 cap behind the air intake.... it must be a Rubi
;D
This may have been in jest, but another good point...I think :p
i would be very cautious. Looking on Ebay, there are NO Rubicons even close to that asking price. Most are $5000+ more.
Ebay usually has the best deals on USA rigs for sale. If there is nothing close to that on Ebay, it makes me think that this one is a scam.
That's what has me worried......but I've seen a lot that I think are over valued, at least, in so far as year/mileage and upgrades. This one is, to me, an acceptable price based on the mileage and condition (and it's stock). It also leaves me with a decent chunk of savings to use towards a down payment on a house or condo.
Hmmm, I remember seeing something mentioned on the boards about somewhere you can look in the undercarriage to tell (fairly easily) if the Jeep has been offroaded or not. Is that visible in the picture he took?
I'm thinking I'll ask for a few more pictures of the damage to the dash board, and if he wouldn't mind taking some pictures of the rock chips he mentioned (which you can really see in the pictures). So I'll ask for a picture of the front diff as well, and a picture of that area (if it's not visible). I'll also get the VIN code from him.
I think he's using a cell phone camera, which attributes to the lack of quality of the pictures, which sucks.
I'm also thinking (if the VIN check and the other pictures look good) I'll have him take it to a shop to get it inspected. Anyone know of good trustworthy shops that know Jeeps out in the Vancouver area? I was thinking I'd call them first and give them my credit card info, so I can just pay for it outright, and then get them to fax or email the inspection report to me. (I heard about someone who payed the owner to get the inspection done, and got burned when the owner got a forged inspection and just pocketed the money).
Alternatively, I have an uncle who lives in the area, and he might be able to go take some good high quality pictures (ideally of the bad areas as well, since the current owner didn't really point anything out, or take specific pictures of the damage), and maybe go with the owner to the shop to get the inspection done.
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...but I've seen a lot that I think are over valued, at least, in so far as year/mileage and upgrades. This one is, to me, an acceptable price based on the mileage and condition (and it's stock).
Er...sorry if I offended any sellers with this. Some of you have beautiful Jeeps you've built up, and if I could afford the asking price (or even negotiating down a bit), I'd buy them in a heartbeat.
Unfortunately I'm trying to buy/build a semi-budget jeep here :p
I recently learned (after getting an insurance quote on an older TJ Sport, with a 4.5" lift and larger tires) that too many upgrades with regards to suspension / wheels could mean I'd have to get facility insurance, so I've decided to purchase a Rubicon, because the extra cost is pretty much saved after a couple years of insurance.
Unfortunately I've seen some base model Rubi's with no upgrades and high mileage for sale at the same cost as Rubi's with less than 100,000kms and some, or lots, of upgrades. But I've seen the same thing regardless of the vehicle type, so I'm not trying to point the finger at Jeep owners in particular.
I'm sure the right Jeep will show up eventually, but the countdown until CJA101 is getting pretty low, and I'd love to have a Jeep ready to take the course (assuming there are still spots available).
Again, thanks for the help / comments guys! Can't wait until I finally get my Jeep!
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If you wait long enough, what youre looking for will come available here..
http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-2003-Jeep-Rubicon-W0QQAdIdZ208103001
Thats a nice jeep, and it looks like it is an old timer who owns it, so it is likely in good condition..
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Thanks Parabs! :D
Just saw it pop up yesterday, but I was pretty much booked all day (in fact, the only couple hours I had off I was browsing Kijiji and saw it).
Hopefully I can go take a look at it this afternoon!
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Checked it out, looks nice.
Just left a message with Jay, hopefully I can take it to his shop to get it checked out asap.
I can't really test 4WD or the locking differentials, and I didn't want to damage anything, so I figure it's best to get it tested out by someone that knows it.
For future reference...I know for sure you can't lock the differentials when on dry pavement (or really on any pavement at all). Also I believe they'll only lock in 4lo.
But....can you run 4hi or 4lo on the street? From my knowledge of differentials / how the trasfer cases work, I would think that the differentials would (assuming they're not locked), relieve any stress on the system without any difficulties.
Also I took a few pictures of the tires, but I didn't have anything to stick in the treads as reference (doh! Pictures are pretty much unusable to gauge how much tread is left). I can post them, but not sure if it's worthwhile. What's the minimum tread on Wrangler M/TR's tires that would be usable for the Jeeping 101 course next weekend?
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I have an '06 Rubi. You can't (from the factory) lock the diffs. unless you're in 4-lo. When in 4-lo, one push down on the diff. lock switch locks the rear diff....subsequent pressing DOWN toggles the front diff. lock on and off while the rear diff. remains locked. Pull up on the switch and both diffs. unlock.
The LOCK lights will flash once the switch is pressed down, and will continue to flash until the diff. is locked...once a diff is locked, the light comes on solid. Mine generally do not engage immediately...they generally take a few seconds, but I believe this is normal. The flashing LOCK lights do NOT indicate a problem, just that they haven't locked yet (unless, of course, they never stop flashing, then there is likely a problem somewhere).
Personally, I don't recommend using 4 wheel drive on pavement at all.
However, the diff. locker does not know if you're on pavement or not, so they'll lock regardless. But...when on pavement, since the transfer case is not a differential, the front and rear drive shafts will need to spin at different speeds when turning, as well as the left and right wheels. So, 4 wheel drive (hi or lo) on a surface were the tires can't slip/slide a bit (like pavement) will cause tires to drag/push on the pavement, causing some stress on the driveline. It would be worse with the diffs locked.
Just my two cents.
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a grid with some aggregate on it will be safe to use your 4wd, hi or low. On a grid, you can at least test it to see if the transfer case is working.
Slewfoot, on any 4-lo system i have ever seen, it was always procedure to go into neutral, shift/press the 4-lo button, and wait a few seconds. There is almost always a slight clunk, and then you are in 4-lo. To shift out, you do the opposite of course. The Chebby and Ford 1/2 tons I had both were electronic switches, and when going into 4-lo, the light blinked just as you described..
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Hi Parabs.
The TJs have a manual 2/4hi/N/4lo lever. The lights and delay I was talking about are for the differential locks.
I have a '92 Jimmy with electronic 4wd switching and it behaves as you described.
I agree with parabs - grid road (with loose gravel) should be OK.
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i forget why technically but bnine has shown that once you press the button, the locker is engaged regardless of its 'flashing' state. Maybe he will chime in as i probably messed up his education to me one day ;D
Oh yeah, as long as you are in a straight line, you can engage the lockers in 4wd on pavement to test it. ;)
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i forget why technically but bnine has shown that once you press the button, the locker is engaged regardless of its 'flashing' state. Maybe he will chime in as i probably messed up his education to me one day ;D
Oh yeah, as long as you are in a straight line, you can engage the lockers in 4wd on pavement to test it. ;)
I'd like bnine to chime in too so I can get a better understanding of the how the internal workings actually behave. :-[
As spinalguy says, straight line on pavement is OK. ;) The stresses come in when the wheels have to turn at different speeds, such as when turning.
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Thanks for the help guys!
I've got an inspection booked with Jay tomorrow morning, so hopefully all goes well.
EDIT: I had a large blurb here about the financing part of it (the vehicle is currently leased by him, and I just want to pay for it in full), but apparently all the hoops I have to jump through are the same as what my parents did when they purchased their most recent car, so I guess it's all good.