Calgary Jeep Association
4x4 Related Groups => Tech Talk => Topic started by: spoons72 on August 05, 2010, 09:16:12 AM
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Very new to this, so forgive my inexperience.
Bought a 92 YJ (just a 4 cyl as it's my first project, next project will be a proper build and upgrades), knowing rear diff was shot. Sourced a rear diff from an Auto Recycler here in town off a 94 YJ. Both Dana35's, both 4:10. So I thought it was going to be more or less a straight swap. The wrecker included the drive shaft on the new diff (likely just didn't want to take it off).
Removed a lot of rusted bolts, cut off U bolts, wire wheeled the new diff and even painted the thing (with a lot of help from a good friend). Dropped it in last night, so proud...until I noticed the yoke on the new diff is 4" and the existing u joint is 3.5", leaving 1/4" on each side of the needle bearings.
In addition, the current driveshaft on my YJ is 1" longer than the driveshaft that came with the new diff.
What have I got myself into? Did I actually get a diff from a 94 YJ?
Are these my options?
1. Use the driveshaft that came with the new diff (although being 1" shorter it might not be long enough, but there is no lift on this jeep so perhaps it'll be fine)? I have not done the spline counts on either shaft as that was the end of my journey last night, so perhaps they are not the same.
2. If the counts are the same, have an inch added to the new driveshaft if necessary.
3. Return the Diff, it's incorrect.
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You got a diff an a driveshaft from a 6 cylinder YJ. Thats why your driveshaft is longer, and ujoint is smaller.
Use your original driveshaft. You can purchase a ujoint that will convert to the larger yoke on the axle. It is called a 1310/1330 combo joint.
Call pats driveline, or Drive Products to get one. Use spicer only. Dont use napa or auto value ujoints.
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Some of the late model YJ D35s came with a 1330 u-joint at the axle instead of the standard 1310 on the rest of the vehicle. My D35 on my YJ had the 1330 yoke from the factory.
As Bnine said you can get a combo joint but for roughly the same price you can get a new 1310 yoke from Pats. If you do ever need to replace the 1330 yoke it is not cheap compared to a 1310 yoke. I did not have any problems but the combo joints can sometimes cause vibration issues.
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Thanks Bnine & Black YJ, much appreciated. I can calm down now.
Yoke on front driveshaft is also clanking at transfer case, pretty loose upon close inspection. So going to try and remove the front driveshaft tonight. I removed the straps at the front on the slip yoke, looks pretty tight to get the rear ones, or does that just slide out too?
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can't swap the old yoke onto the new diff and call it a day?
should just need a new nut, locktite and torque wrench.
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Thanks FiEND. I thought you couldn't remove that nut without messing up the diff. Again, I am pretty new to this but thought I read that somewhere.
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can't swap the old yoke onto the new diff and call it a day?
should just need a new nut, locktite and torque wrench.
SLAP
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can't swap the old yoke onto the new diff and call it a day?
should just need a new nut, locktite and torque wrench.
And a crush sleeve and a new nut and an inch pounds tourque wrench and a new seal and a giant wrench to hold the yoke...
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ahhh... now i remember. i only worked on one diff with a crush sleeve and i know i repressed those memories.
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Thanks Bnine! Picked up the 1310/1330 combo joint at Pat's yesterday. Pressed out the old in the vice, new one went in like a charm. I had a beer in your honor to celebrate.
Got the front driveshaft out last night, the U Joint into the transfer case had no needles and was pretty destroyed. That's not pressing out as easy, but I'm sure I'll get it tonight.
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If you arent in a hurry, just give them a soak with whatever brand of monkey squirt you use to loosen stuff up.
And you're welcome. Just starting out, you dont really need to be tearing into the entire rearend before you get going.
We prefer to get you thoroughly addicted before go that far :):)
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Too late, already addicted. Hands still have grease in the crevices as I sit at my desk. Awesome.
Next is to start on the rust. Lots at the rocker panel both sides and over the rear wheels.
I brought my kids to your show n shine a couple of weeks ago, they loved that RTI ramp. Saw lots of guys with nice patches over the rocker panel areas. I am not a big fan of checkerplate, but was perhaps thinking of bolting or welding something over both rocker panels rather than try to repair rust. I'll still clean it out, but avoid a lot of patching.
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Aftermarket body armor is about the most cost effective way of addressing body damage/rust without breaking the bank. Not to mention the stuff looks good and is very functional in regards to offroad protection.
Couple guys to look at are.
Savvy Offorad
Genrite Offroad
Bluetorch fab
Poison spyder customs
Rokman
Those will get you started. Search on rockers, corners, and fenders.
Have fun.
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Thanks again Bnine!