Calgary Jeep Association
4x4 Related Groups => Tech Talk => Topic started by: Black Betty on July 25, 2011, 07:56:42 AM
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So I was doing the old fluids change on my yj, and while I was changing the clutch fluid, the cheap plastic slave cylinder bleed screw stripped. I picked up a new slave at the partsource and put it in. Now before I did this, I had found that the clutch was not fully disengaging from gear, hense why I thought I'd change the fluid. It is still doing it with new fluid and a new slave. Looks like I will probably change the clutch and get a good look at everything else in there while it's apart. Any thoughts on a cause, or if there is anything else I should look at before I tear into it? Also, where is the best place to pick up a new clutch?
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Would be worth putting a new retainer spring on the clutch fork while you have it apart. I've had mine rust out and break. Its the $2 one that slips over the little ball and holds the whole thing together.
Can't comment on a good place to buy, I needed my asap so I went to part source and just grabbed the kit they had in stock.
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What year is the clutch? Internal slave or external?
"not fully disengaging from gear" could be the transmission.
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What year is the clutch? Internal slave or external?
"not fully disengaging from gear" could be the transmission.
'94, with a shiny new external slave.
I'm pretty sure it's the clutch, when I sit on a slight up hill incline, clutch in, tranny in first, she tries to putter forward, when I keep the clutch in and pull the tranny out of first into neutral, it rolls back. Engagement of the clutch happens about 1/4" back from foot to the floor. I'm thinking it's the throw out or release bearing that is pooched, but if I have it apart, I may as well do the clutch too. I think it is original.
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'94, with a shiny new external slave.
I'm pretty sure it's the clutch, when I sit on a slight up hill incline, clutch in, tranny in first, she tries to putter forward, when I keep the clutch in and pull the tranny out of first into neutral, it rolls back. Engagement of the clutch happens about 1/4" back from foot to the floor. I'm thinking it's the throw out or release bearing that is pooched, but if I have it apart, I may as well do the clutch too. I think it is original.
Have you checked your master cylinder? Are you sure there is no air in the system since you replaced the slave? On an external slave the throw out bearing is literally a bearing and does not control the amount of movement to engage / disengage the clutch. It sounds like it is a problem with the hydraulics
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Have you checked your master cylinder? Are you sure there is no air in the system since you replaced the slave? On an external slave the throw out bearing is literally a bearing and does not control the amount of movement to engage / disengage the clutch. It sounds like it is a problem with the hydraulics
How would I check the master cylinder? Any real way? It would be awesome if that's all it was!
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How is the fluid level? Are you losing any? Check in the cab to see if there are any leaks around the master cylinder
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'94, with a shiny new external slave.
I'm pretty sure it's the clutch, when I sit on a slight up hill incline, clutch in, tranny in first, she tries to putter forward, when I keep the clutch in and pull the tranny out of first into neutral, it rolls back.
been there; thats usually air in the system. sometimes it takes a while for the air bubbles to develop the problem. its happened to me in a jeep and my old ford. try bleeding it again!
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mine did this for a long time. i changed the master/slave with no change. i changed the clutch and it helped. but there was still a slight kick when i put it into first from neutral like the clutch wouldn't disengage completely. also my rear main was leaking somewhat.
last time i had the skid plate off to do my exhaust work, we propped the tranny up and it moved around a bit. in the process it "settled" into place. it doesn't kick or buck anymore and my rear main doesn't leak anymore either.
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Thanks for the replies everyone! I'll try bleeding it again. This was happening since I have owned the jeep, and I did replace the slave on Sunday because the factory bleed screw stripped in the slave. The new one is metal with a brake style bleeder on it. I will try bleeding it again. I've heard when you bleed it to not put the clutchpedal right to the floor. It this correct? I'm not used to a hydro clutch, the ones I have replaced are modular clutches, they don't have a flywheel and are cable type also.
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I can not see why you wouldn't put it right to the floor when bleeding. On my old XJ sometimes pumping the clutch pedal violently with the reservoir cap off on the bleeder closed helped bleed out the master. You should be able to tell if the system is working properly by watching the movement of the slave cylinder while someone works the pedal and see if it moves through its complete range.
Fiend: what you had sounds like what happens sometimes when you do a body lift. The shifter actually hits the edge of the hole in the tub where shifter comes thru just enough to makes it hard to get into gear.
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I can not see why you wouldn't put it right to the floor when bleeding.
Some people say that if some crud has accumulated in the master, pressing the pedal all the way in will force it out and clog the slave.
If that were to happen, I would rather it happen while safe, in the garage, then on a high speed approach to the infamous widowmaker hill climb attempt! ;)