Calgary Jeep Association
4x4 Related Groups => Tech Talk => Topic started by: binare on September 01, 2011, 09:26:11 PM
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So I got this 03 Rubi with the stock moabs (16x8 @ 5"bs). I dont want wheel spacers ad I definately dont want to rub. I also want to keep stock back spacing even if I change wheels. Im looking at the toyo mts, ive ran them on my last 2 cherokees and loved them... minus the price of course. Heres the question. would you get new rims and drop to 15s to run a 33x10.5x 15... or keep the moabs and try out the 255/85/16... or keep the moabs and hope a 265/75/16 dont rub? Later option might require changing steering stops... not a fan. ill be at 2.5" sl, 1" bl and 1" mml before I order the tires. next year will be a tummy tuck in the spring. This is a daily driver and my style of offroading is more overland then hack n bash.... 12.5" tires are out of the question for me. Any opinions? what have you done... likes and dislikes about your setup? Im a do it once kinda guy and have been months deciding lift and shoes for this tj... No regrets this time around.
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go 33 /12.5 R 15 or 16 if you want to keep your stock rims .. and run 1.5 wheel spacers i know you said you dont want to but that will give you the clearance you need to not rub at full turn and youll only stick out maybe a inch from your fenders ..
2.5 suspension and
1.25 body will give you lots of room for the 33's thats exactly what my brother ran and he never had any issues
including the mml
and i ran that for a year in my rubicon on 33 14.5 R15 boggers and never had any issues
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go 33 /12.5 R 15 or 16 if you want to keep your stock rims .. and run 1.5 wheel spacers i know you said you dont want to but that will give you the clearance you need to not rub at full turn and youll only stick out maybe a inch from your fenders ..
2.5 suspension and
1.25 body will give you lots of room for the 33's thats exactly what my brother ran and he never had any issues
including the mml
and i ran that for a year in my rubicon on 33 14.5 R15 boggers and never had any issues
Im almost flush with my flares now so Id stick out the width of the spacer plus half the extra width of the tire over what im running now plus put alot more stress on my steering components, bearings, ujoints... gain less traction and more rolling resistance plus make my jeep wider. For my style of offroading it just dont make sense for me to go that route. Ive done wide tires and spacers before and the only thing I liked about it was the looks. Keep em coming!
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i wheeled with a guy running 33x12.50 Boggers on a stock TJ. He removed the flares only when wheeling. It did well.
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if you're using minimal lift and stock rims with stock back spacing you could try a 285/75r16. usually these are about 33" tall and 11" wide. but being that tall with the stock back spacing you may rub at full lock on compression. if you feel you want to change rims to 15's then look for a 33" tall 10.50 wide. not common but i know BFG has them in at and mt. and much cheaper then the toyos on 16" rims. search some of the tire companies websites for sizing. you may find you only need an AT over a full MT. Nitto, toyo, bfg, goodyear. even the new falken wildpeak is getting a lot of attention down south, seems to be a great on and off road tire. there are lots of options out there.
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If you are looking for something that's capable of actually offroading and not just driving through a field that a civic can drive through, then I'd listen to Jef. He knows his stuff. You want bigger tires, but you don't want spacers and no rub... and from the sounds of it, you aren't looking to do any major modifications to eliminate the need for the spacers. You also said gain less traction with a wider tire? You'd rather have a pair of ski's under your rig then something with a wider grip base? Sorry dude, but you might be better off with a civic from the sounds of it.
As for tires, the toyo mts are great. They might be a little more pricy, but worth it as they will last a lot longer. If you aren't a bush guy, why do you need the MT's? Go with the AT's if you want better wear on your tires.
I'm running 33x12.5x15 right now, and will be upgrading next year to a 37x14.5x15or17 or something in that range. It's a big jump, but build once right. As for my current set up, I'm pretty happy with it. The only thing I don't like is I don't have my axle swap done yet so I don't have lockers yet or have the gears that I want. However my offroading style is different then yours. I prefer the rocks and the crawling, the technical stuff.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
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if you're using minimal lift and stock rims with stock back spacing you could try a 285/75r16. usually these are about 33" tall and 11" wide. but being that tall with the stock back spacing you may rub at full lock on compression.
The 285/75/16s are a good option but they will still rub at full lock and under full compression. My dad had this setup on his LJ rubi with the stock rubi rims. The 265s would probably be a good choice with the stock rims.
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If you are looking for something that's capable of actually offroading and not just driving through a field that a civic can drive through, then I'd listen to Jef. He knows his stuff. You want bigger tires, but you don't want spacers and no rub... and from the sounds of it, you aren't looking to do any major modifications to eliminate the need for the spacers. You also said gain less traction with a wider tire? You'd rather have a pair of ski's under your rig then something with a wider grip base? Sorry dude, but you might be better off with a civic from the sounds of it.
As for tires, the toyo mts are great. They might be a little more pricy, but worth it as they will last a lot longer. If you aren't a bush guy, why do you need the MT's? Go with the AT's if you want better wear on your tires.
I'm running 33x12.5x15 right now, and will be upgrading next year to a 37x14.5x15or17 or something in that range. It's a big jump, but build once right. As for my current set up, I'm pretty happy with it. The only thing I don't like is I don't have my axle swap done yet so I don't have lockers yet or have the gears that I want. However my offroading style is different then yours. I prefer the rocks and the crawling, the technical stuff.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
ive driven my cherokees through some of the worst shite this country.. and many others have to offer. dont insult my or your intelligence with your comments about civics and fields. Ive been doing this for longer then youve had your license id imagine. if you want to get in a pissing match abot the technicalities about traction, tire size etc. ill gladly accept... in pm as no one else needs to read this shite. I suggest you do some homework on the subject before hand and leave your crap somewhere else. I know what Geff is saying... ive run the exact same setup for years... and it has its downfalls... just as everything else. Since I live in the real world... I understand that driving to Mexico to do trails that are weeks long.. not hours requires a little more common sense then slapping on wheel spacers and throwing on the fattest tires I can. a narrower tire affords me more pounds per square inch.. better suiting MY needs for traction and types of terrain while maintaining my stock backspacing and overall width... LESS MAINTENANCE. Ya your school yard reply fumed me off... didnt ask for your crap... youll get mine in return. Try something constructive and tell me you think 12.50s and spacers are the way to go. Such as off camber stability, deep mud
and snow flotation where digging down to the hard pack may not be desirable.... you know.. something constructive.
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The 285/75/16s are a good option but they will still rub at full lock and under full compression. My dad had this setup on his LJ rubi with the stock rubi rims. The 265s would probably be a good choice with the stock rims.
Ya ive looked at both sizes. Im liking the 255/85/16 accept the width... but for a 1/2 inch difference in a narrower width.. I may bite the bullet. This way I get a true 33.. gain a little clearance under the pumpkin and maintain driveability in daily and offroad life. the type of mud I do see... the narrower tire would only help me anyways... Ive had my share of fun wrenching nonstop from playing in mud pits all day... cant see me needing the width anymore... always a compromise though right. Ive never ran a 285 on 5" bs before... any ideas on how much steering by snubbing out your stops enough to reduce rub?
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Little more background info maybe to help.My biggest concerns are pumpkin clearance... bigger tires about it... portals not an option.Body lift... more so I dont need to cut, raise and reweld my tunnel 2" for the tummy tuck, ill either do my own plate or look at the rokmen ultra high clearace.. 1" is alot easier so Ill gain the height with the body lift. The fat belly is what hangs me the most. Id highline and lose the 2.5" sp.. buut aint practical for my needs... looks dont really concern but they do look silly on 33s.
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My biggest concerns are pumpkin clearance... bigger tires about it...
Honestly going from a 245/75 to a 255/85 or 265/75 you are really not gaining much (0.5-1") of pumpkin clearance but getting a good tire suited for your preferred trail conditions will more important. As you are doing, you will be far better off doing a tummy tack and getting rid of the rubi-grator skid plate than gaining an inch from going to a slightly larger tire.
Just my $0.02
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Honestly going from a 245/75 to a 255/85 or 265/75 you are really not gaining much (0.5-1") of pumpkin clearance but getting a good tire suited for your preferred trail conditions will more important. As you are doing, you will be far better off doing a tummy tack and getting rid of the rubi-grator skid plate than gaining an inch from going to a slightly larger tire.
Just my $0.02
Agree 100%. My current tires are done... definately wont be through another winter so its not just an upgrade for the sake of clearance.
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so from the sounds of it you plan on more long distance wheeling trips, with a variety of terrain. the tummy tuck is a smart choice, check this out,
http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/product.sc?productId=56&categoryId=11
may be something to consider.
personally i think changing to a 15" rim with less back space and 33/10.50r15 would put your tire slightly out of the fender flare but not by much. the 15" will be a lighter load range C tire and still give a strong sidewall. with less back space tires shouldnt rub. bfg does make a 33x9.50r15 which is even narrower. ive seen these tires in person and they are skinny, they work great in winter, dig to the bottom. may be an even better option if deep mud isnt in your future.
from the sounds of things you may have to give up soemthing. id rather have my tires stick past the flares a little then rubbing on the control arms.
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I wheel Mclean or Crowsnest atleast 3 times a week for anywhere from 2 to 12 hours at a time. I don't just do long distance. I don't run from mud, I just don't sit in it and play all day. I cross it.... and move on. A wide tire would certainly benefit me for the 2% of the time I don't wanna dig through it to find traction ie. the bigger holes. But a skinnier tire (10.5) or so benefits me the 98% of the time. Less stress on my drivetrain, bearings, no spacers, proper backspacing, less weight so on and so forth. I know fat tires look good, every body wants em... including myself, Jeeps are just plain sex on fat tires but... most of the time.. I want to dig down past the slick... grab some terra and get movin if ya know what I mean. Traction trumps... always (for me anyways). So... Ya... I do not want spacers, I do not to screw with my backspacing enough that im putting more strain on my axles. A 10.5 suits my needs better then a 12.5 does if not for those reasons alone. I daily drive my rig... always will daily my rigs, always have, even on 6" and 35x13.50 and I fuggin hated it, and a nightmare to get through tighter trails. Small, light and tight is how this ones gonna roll. My wifes yj sits on 4.5 leafs with 33x10.50 wrapping the stock 15s. Its almost perfect minus the height and shes the snot out of it. So my options are, and I'll try and be more clear.
1. 33x10.5x15 load C, and get steel wheels, selling my moabs
2. 265/75/16 (31.64x10.43) load e, on the moabs
3. 285/75/16 (32.83x11.22) load e, on the moabs, may rub depending on tire and who you talk to, not a fan of snubbing my steering either. Sometimes I dont have enough as it is. But how much is lost?
or
4. 255/85/16 (33.06x10.03) load e, on the moabs.
#3 would be perfect if it didnt rub... can't find a yay or nay anywhere on this... for the toyo mts. I'd do it in a heartbeat if I knew I wasn't losing "too much" steering. Adding washers to my stops makes my head hurt as much as adding wheel spacers do. #2 is a good width while #3 is a perfect height... I know ill have no clearance issues with either of them. #1 I get a softer tire and prfect size for my needs... but I need new rims, black procomp steelies? Apexs rim? I'm not sinking money into aluminum rims anytime soon.
Hopefully that made it more clear... I'm not out for a sunday cruise in the ol Jeep to look cool and I aint afraid to roll, scratch, dent hurt mangle or otherwise get my rubi dirty. I just don't NEED fat enough tires to require the extra maintenance associated with them... even though they do look good.
I'm also not talking about rubbing height wise... got that covered... they wont. Its strictly width... rubbing on control arms.
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so from the sounds of it you plan on more long distance wheeling trips, with a variety of terrain. the tummy tuck is a smart choice, check this out,
http://shop.savvyoffroad.com/product.sc?productId=56&categoryId=11
may be something to consider.
personally i think changing to a 15" rim with less back space and 33/10.50r15 would put your tire slightly out of the fender flare but not by much. the 15" will be a lighter load range C tire and still give a strong sidewall. with less back space tires shouldnt rub. bfg does make a 33x9.50r15 which is even narrower. ive seen these tires in person and they are skinny, they work great in winter, dig to the bottom. may be an even better option if deep mud isnt in your future.
from the sounds of things you may have to give up soemthing. id rather have my tires stick past the flares a little then rubbing on the control arms.
The Savvys nice... but diy with some elbow grease or the Rokmen will give me the flat bottom... at around a 3rd the price. I got no problems cutting out my tunnel to raise it to get my tummy nice and flat. I'd rather cut and add then hammer it out.
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Honestly, I think you are making this rubbing issue a little too big. I respect what you want, and on my dad's rig with 285s and moabs it only rubbed at full lock, back off an 1/8 of a turn and it was fine. You really did not loose any turning radius and you only really noticed it in parking lots. Therefore based on that I would say a 255 or 265 will be fine
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Honestly, I think you are making this rubbing issue a little too big. I respect what you want, and on my dad's rig with 285s and moabs it only rubbed at full lock, back off an 1/8 of a turn and it was fine. You really did not loose any turning radius and you only really noticed it in parking lots. Therefore based on that I would say a 255 or 265 will be fine
Man its so hard to communicate on the internets sometimes. Cant make it big or small without any knowledge of it. Your post now gives me something. And that amount of rub is fugg all. All ive heard is... it rubs... or dont rub. Dont really care IF it rubs... Care more HOW MUCH it rubs. Thanks for your dads experience.. very helpful.
Ive heard others say they get rubbing on the rear spring perches too. not much of a fix for that other then clearancing your perches. Id say its a little important. 1500 bucks to trial and error a set of tires without asking for experiences on that setup wouldnt make much sense.
I know a 255 or 265 would be perfectly fine. As stated in my last reply ;-) Was just asking about options is all.
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as for maintenance side of things .. i ran my stock rubi tires for 1 year then went to boggers that ripped my front end apart . bearings steering u name it it broke or was badly used .. now im running 35 MTZ aggrssive but not crazy 12.5 wide and my bearings are doing 2 years and are still in good shape . front end has been up graded to currie HD steering and it is just fine as well .. ball joints are good . so i wouldnt worry about 33's being a issues if its a MT or a AT
and i know what you mean by 10.5 having more pressure on teh ground then a 12.5 thats fine if thats what your looking for so go 33 10.5 R 6 you shouldnt have to much rubbing if any at all .
just will have less option of tires in that size
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as for maintenance side of things .. i ran my stock rubi tires for 1 year then went to boggers that ripped my front end apart . bearings steering u name it it broke or was badly used .. now im running 35 MTZ aggrssive but not crazy 12.5 wide and my bearings are doing 2 years and are still in good shape . front end has been up graded to currie HD steering and it is just fine as well .. ball joints are good . so i wouldnt worry about 33's being a issues if its a MT or a AT
and i know what you mean by 10.5 having more pressure on teh ground then a 12.5 thats fine if thats what your looking for so go 33 10.5 R 6 you shouldnt have to much rubbing if any at all .
just will have less option of tires in that size
12.5 on a 35 aint crazy wide at all. Anything less and you def risk rolling a side wall in some situations for sure. I get from your posts that ya dont wheel like a panzy so its good to hear youve gone 2 years on the rubis version of a front end 44. I was surprised the first time I saw the knuckles on the 44s... was wondering what happened to the rest of em. Ill probably end up going 33x10.5 a 15. seems to make the most sense for what im going for.... in the end ill be doing a full droop setup.
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ya i wheeel mine very hard . its on 5.13 gears and chromly shafts . because the only thing that every broke really bad was a shaft . it exploded at teh ujoint and ripped both ends of the inner and outer shaft off it was bad. but got it pulled apart in the snow and drove out in 2 wheel drive .. then thats when the gears and shafts went in .
ive heard bad things about the stock 44's but so far im very happy with the abuse mine has taken . i have upgraded as much as i can at the moment and they have been very good to me .
i wouldnt be over worried at all with only 33's
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Well now you explained a whole different type of wheeling then your original post. The first one made it sound like you were afraid to get a little scratch on your rig in the bush and had a pretty mall crawler. Hence the civic post. Don't peg me as a typical "offroader" that is on this site that doesn't know how to wheel. No offense to them, but build a rig big enough and anyone can drive through a mud pit. You don't need a lift for wiaprious from what I've seen of it. I'm more technical and prefer rock. One of the things that's lacking around here. Takes more skill to know your line... but we all know that. I've followed guys with 35's and lockers front and rear with my rig when I had 30's and open open.
Not a fan of mud? Me either, and you won't see me down at McLean hydrolocking, but I have had better experience with a wider tire aired down on rock then a smaller tire. To each their own though. I think you have gotten your responses here. I was going to PM you, but I'm not here to pick a battle with you and thought I'd clear the air. We obviously have different preferences in wheeling and why we and others will have difference of opinions on what to run.
and Jeff... thats fine if thats what your looking for so go 33 10.5 R 16
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Not sure how ya got mall crawler or civics in fields out of saying i dont hack and bash my way through trails. I run light on the gas peddle and work my through an obstacle not just bounce through it. Overlanding has nothing to do with malls or civics. Ive towed a 2000 pound through some of the greasiest crap ive seen imaginablefor days on end. Its all good man... ya just made an assumption on based on something i dunno what though. In reality the difference in 12.5 to 10.5 on a 33 makes little difference... just whats required to fit the width makes all the difference.
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Im gonna lock this troll session. take your e-wheel-penis competition somewhere else.