Calgary Jeep Association
4x4 Related Groups => Tech Talk => Topic started by: Rubi03 jef on October 06, 2011, 08:46:35 PM
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so now that i have my 60's
the question is
in the rear do i run a full spool for 150$ or buy a lockers for 1000$ the rear is going to be 35 spline chromoly shafts
and for the front . my front 60 have auto hubs vaccum style so they will be changed out with either hubs that can be unlocked and locked or full locked and my front shafts will always be turning
any input would be great .. front will be getting a selectible locker for sure
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You want good tires or te highway and mudding, THEN you start talking about a spool????
Kiss your rear tires good bye in a year with a spool and kiss winter driving goodbye too.
Cheapjeff don't cheap out on a locker. Compromise with at least a Detroit for $500.
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I've cheaped-out in the past and have run spools ( mini and full ). Magazines(pre-interwebs) like Fourwheeler and 4Wheel & Offroad had tech editors say that a spool wasn't too bad as it was more predictable and bone simple. No air leaks or cables to mess with. I've burnt through Interco Swampers and Boggers in less than 2 years with moderate road use. Facking annoying going through drive-thru's with 2 point turns and the chirping around corners at even slow speeds got old real quick. Spools have their place but not forgiving enough for road use.
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I've cheaped-out in the past and have run spools ( mini and full ). Magazines(pre-interwebs) like Fourwheeler and 4Wheel & Offroad had tech editors say that a spool wasn't too bad as it was more predictable and bone simple. No air leaks or cables to mess with. I've burnt through Interco Swampers and Boggers in less than 2 years with moderate road use. Facking annoying going through drive-thru's with 2 point turns and the chirping around corners at even slow speeds got old real quick. Spools have their place but not forgiving enough for road use.
What's your stance on auto-lockers like Aussie and such?
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What's your stance on auto-lockers like Aussie and such?
I've run almost every "lunchbox" locker made. Detroit EZ-locker, Lockrite, and Aussie. I've found that they survive better in bigger diffs than they do in smaller diffs probably due to carrier size. I had a problem with the Aussie but the company's tech department was top-notch and helped me on the phone step by step. They sent me 2 new springs(no charge) and I wasn't even the original buyer. I found that the Lockrite was starting to have teeth wear in my Dana 44 after 3 years of abuse. They "pop" around corners under load from time to time but it's not objectionable . I've run a full case Detroit locker in a Ford 9" and a Dana 60 and only found that lane changes on the highway took some getting used to. Longer wheelbase auto-equipped rigs I've owned were less noticeable than my shorter wheelbase rigs with a manual .
HTH
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Good advice, thanks for the insight. I was pondering what to put in my Ford 9" in my XJ, my first choice had always been a full-case Detroit but if funds are short like they have been recently I was thinking maybe an Aussie instead. And this XJ is an auto... not sure if you would consider it long wheelbase, but I guess its longer than a wrangler at any rate.
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if you are trailering it jeff then spool it.
not trailering then perhaps a detroit. or a selectable is probably the same price as a detroit.
auto lockers are cool but do wear down in daily driven rigs. i'll be puttin one in my ZJ eventually........ once you get used to them, you can learn to drive them so they unlock around corners and stuff.
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once you get used to them, you can learn to drive them so they unlock around corners and stuff.
It's called taking your foot off the gas pedal and coasting
A lunchbox in a 9" under an XJ should be okay with 35" tires. The " Machinist" on this forum has 35's, an auto, and a lunchbox locker in his Cherokee. He used to drive his Jeep year-round with no problems after the initial learning process.
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Had a lockright in my old Cherokee with 31s. With the stick it was annoying as hell, when I converted it to auto it was hardly noticable on the street.
Now I'm running spooled(welded) in my rear D60. Has never failed or given me any problems, no sudden lockups or unlocks either. My ZJ only gets driven to local trails and is trailed the rest of the time. I definatly notice more wear on the rear tires than front.
For a front lock you only want a selectable. I'm running an Eaton Elocker. Been great so far. Snagged the wires once and had them fixed in 10min.
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Thanks guys.
As for buying lockers where's the best place and price
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I'd have to say Northridge.
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Thanks guys.
As for buying lockers where's the best place and price
SPOOL IT MAN! ... it's very predictable on the road ...I got mine delivered for about $170-190 and a detroit for the front. Stan can hook you up.
It does not chew tires that bad. I ran a Detroit locker in my 8.25 for years and I had good life on my tires for a tire with agressive treads.
I like the NO maintenance part of it....
Selectable lockers are a pain in the butt.
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I'd have to say Northridge.
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I went with an Auburn in my grand and I couldn't be happier. It always works so well and never ratchets around corners. Just like the Flavourwave oven.....just set it and forget it lol
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I think a spool in the back would be fine I'm stretching the jeep so longer wheel base will help even more
As for highway driving in the winter I drift everywhere anyways so having it locked is just gamma help with even more drifting
And for tires I can only see it eating tires while turning
And I only need to turn 6 times to get to work :)
And or the savings I can put the money else where
I only got 3 years from my mtz's. So once the jeep is built it will no longer be a daily driver
Spool it is for the rear
SPOOL IT MAN! ... it's very predictable on the road ...I got mine delivered for about $170-190 and a detroit for the front. Stan can hook you up.
It does not chew tires that bad. I ran a Detroit locker in my 8.25 for years and I had good life on my tires for a tire with agressive treads.
I like the NO maintenance part of it....
Selectable lockers are a pain in the butt.
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im not shooting down some of these ideas but the auburn is a clutch type limited slip, the clutches will wear out and need replacing. it may be 10 years from now but they will wear out. if a selectable locker is your choice the elocker and arb dont use clutches. i think the spool is cheap, tough and predictable. but it will wear your tires. so if you run cheap tires then who cares. if you drop a couple grand on tires you may want to make them last. a detroit could be a happy medium between selectable and spool. something to think about. even your driving style and what you want to be able to do with it should affect your choice. if you want to wheel hard all day and not give up an inch, then spool it and live with the quirks. otherwise spend the extra coin.
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I agree the Detroit would probably be best. But I like the idea of no maintenance spool
As for tires the jeep will not be a daily driver after this build but it will be out and about
So havin a spool in the rear in my mind is easy cheap and strong. Fine I'll wear my tires out a bit fast. But I can live with that.
Then I'll put a selectable locker in the front
Air or electronic is the new question
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I agree from what you are saying it sounds like you are a good candidate for spooling the rear.
The front is simple, electric. Easier to install, less maintance, no lines to freeze up in winter, easier to repair on the trail.......
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Thanks. I will be posting picture as the diffs get built
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If you are going to run hubs you are actually better off spooling the front, and selectable rear. As long as you have hydraulic steering of course. But you wouldnt run anything over a 35 without hydro assist or full hydro anyways.
That setup also makes true cutting brakes possible.
You stay in 4wd and just brake 1 rear tire, then pivot on it in 3 wheel drive.
Thats how most comp guys run a spool/selectable combo.
You get all the positives, and none of the negatives. Still get simplicity of a spool, and reduced cost. Turn the hubs out (or pull slugs) on the road and get normal tire wear.
You want to make sure you have a good steering angle to make it work though. You should able to clearence stock type knuckles and axles to get right around 40 degrees which would be perfect for the above setup.
basically you need to be able to turn tight in order to overcome the scrub in the frontend from being locked solid.
There's tricks you can do with the steering angle (ackerman) to further help with that as well.