Calgary Jeep Association
4x4 Related Groups => Tech Talk => Topic started by: Elsifer on April 14, 2006, 01:57:24 PM
-
Anyone know where I can get a passenger side front wheel bearing for an 04 Rubi??
I have my rig up on blocks, the ujoints seem fine as there is no binding when I turn the wheels, plus the sparrows seem only to come out when there is more rotation than what my hands can provide.
There is slop on the passenger wheel, but it looks like the balljoint/kingpin is ok. The slop seems to sound like grinding (metal on dust) and it seems to come from my rim against the wheel assembly. So I assume bearing.
Anyone have the necessary tools and stuffs to do this? I can't get to it this weekend, as I am in school and poor, but I do have some cash coming my way next week, so I can get it done then.
Thanks in advance!
Chris
-
Chris, I went thru the same thing myself a couple months back with my front D30. Used unit bearings are $75 at jeepstuff. They had to dig to find a match for me. Auto value new ones are around $150-175. Must order them tho. Talk to bnine if you want to go this route. I had to buy a hub puller that you are welcome to. Most people are able to flip the rotor and use it as a slide hammer. I couldn't get it budge this way hence the need for the puller. Everthing else was just hand tools, some grease, and beers. I can help with the tools if you help with the beers. ;)
-
I got my last wheel bearings @ National... they are called "FAG" .... :lol:
They werea bit cheaper than Auto Value. :D
My first set I got from A.V. near Heritage and Macleod and they cost me $156 tx in each (for a D30). It's all the same crap.
Don't buy the "better" ones (at about $250) you will have to change them in a year anyway.
Greg ... Chris... BEER soon Tabarnack :?: !!! :P
-
i think we should just get a case and "help/watch" chris change his unit bearings.
???
-
Wouldn't a '04 be under warranty still ?
But if you want to do yourself, I would be willing to help, It is a easy job and a minimum of tools are needed, I have done mine a couple of times now. Just come on out and visit one evening, The last one took me less than an hour.
-
i think we should just get a case and "help/watch" chris change his unit bearings.
???
You have my vote.... 8)
I'll even volonteers to do one side!!!
-
part source is selling them for $240.99.... the more expensive truly don't make a difference? found out when I changed my tires over to the 31s that at least my passenger side needs attention... but I'd really like to save that $100! that's a TON of beer! :D
-
the more expensive truly don't make a difference?
I looked at both on them and I also try them both. One looks a little stronger than the other but they look very simillar. I'm sure the more $$$ ones are a bit better... not $100 better! With the beating I give my bearings (water, mud, tire size) more $$ or cheaper ...they last me about a year away.
$100! that's a TON of beer! :D
$100 X 2 bearings ... THAT'S ALOT OF BREWSKIS :shock:
That's my 2 cents...
Cheers.... ?//////?
-
Chris
I have (3) longer 12 Pt bolts that will fit in and repace the ones holding your wheel bearing assemblies in. Just pull out the three orignal ones, install mine and tap on them with a hammer instead of the original bolts. The wheel bearings pop out very easily, with zero damage to anything else. The only difficult part is getting the large nut off the axle, but its not bad if you have an impact gun. But it can be done other ways also. Simple job, just expensive.
8)
Let me know Chris and I'll show you.
Darren
-
just a quick heads up as well..... make sure you torque the large center nut to specs. i did it old school, back when it only had to be just over hand tight, and i ended up replacing the bearing again 2 months later...
-
hey rigpig... what is the torque spec on that nut? I gotta make sure i did it right.
-
I bought a set off ebay 3 days ago. With shipping to my door and exchange, two are coming to $223 Canadian. They are made by Atlas who is owned by Transbec. The last ones I bought were through Napa and I think they lasted a less than a year. These ones can't be any worse.
He put another set up for auction. Here's the link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-99-jeep-tj-yj-wrangler-front-hub-and-bearing-NEW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQitemZ8056475085QQrdZ1
HTH,
-
I guess I should mention that these units on ebay aren't for your year, but he might be able to get some for you. He buys and sells these things wholesale.
Jeff
-
Hey, thanks for all your suggestions and offers. I'm waiting for some funding to hit my bank, and then I can go get the bearing kit. But I'll prolly be doing my wrenching this weekend, so everyone, put saturday on your calendar, bring your lawnchairs, you might have to sit out in the alley as the garage is pretty small.
But seriously, if you are interested, sat morn/afternoon I'll be wrenching, then sat night off to KOTC! :twisted:
PM me!
Cheers
Chris
-
I was down at National yesterday, and yes Dom, the FAG wheel bearings are what I am going to be putting in.
This Saturday, late am, my house (unless someone wants to volunteer their garage, mine is pretty small for heckling).
PM me for directions, bring your own chair, covercharge to watch the festivities is a case of beer - which you get to drink! But I get one or two.
Cheers
Chris
-
what's national charging you for them?
-
what's national charging you for them?
Don't quote me, but I think $160-ish. Thats what I vaguely recall. I'm likely wrong though.
-
So I replaced my passenger side front wheel bearing, and that was easier than I had thought!
- WD40 the heck out of the back three 1/2" bolt heads and let sit, then spray again and take a brillo pad to get exess rust/dirt off so the socket fits
- Loosen lug nuts, and take out cotter pin, cap, and loosen the big nut on the outside of the stub-shaft
- Lift that side of the axel so tire gets off the ground
- take off wheel
- Take off caliper, and rotor
- undo the three 1/2" bolts on the backside
- use Apex' gear puller, scratch head on how it works, put legs on lug studs, bolt down with lug nuts, align claws of legs on disc, thread in long push stud, thread in stud so it pushes on stub-shaft end, spin till bearing assembly pops, set dust shield aside
- pull the washer from the used assembly, and clean out the gaping hole where the bearing assy came from
- CopprKote (Anti-sieze and rust inhibitor made by JetLube) the stub shaft, the gaping hole, backside of the new bearing assy, the bolts holding the assy
- Remember the dust shield goes on before the new bearing assy
- torque up the three back bolts, and the big nut
- put the rotor and caliper back
- add the wheel
Though I forgot to put the dust shield back on before the bearing assy, and I had done up the big nut that keeps the bearing assy on the outer stub-shaft. So I pulled the whole axel shaft out, and inspected the splines and the shaft. The splines were good, so I put some grease on them, and noted how dusty the shaft was. Time for some good seals other than the plastic dust bonnet that comes stock. Put the brake dust shield on, and reinserted the whole thing. Put lots of CopprKote all over the place and on all the threads. And buttoned it back up. I noticed that the ujoint between the main shaft and the stub shaft was not so hot, so those will have to be done soon.
I have no idea what the torque settings are supposed to be, if someone knows, can you post up? I don't have my own torque wrench, but I can use one from work to bring it all back to spec.
I've also just pulled my front DS (since I was wrenching, might as well get another bird with the same stone), and the CV cup was pooched. It slopped all over the place, except for one direction. It wouldn't go without serious grinding. And the ujoint on the front of the shaft is starting to go, so I'll prolly get a new one, get a fresh set of caps for the old one and keep it as a spare.
So, off to DSI I take my front shaft, and see what it'll cost for a new, greasable cv + beefy ujoint.
All said, took me just over three hours. Most of the time was lost cleaning the back three bolt heads so the socket would fit, and trying to get a socket off a bolt that I didn't clean so well. Plus I didn't drop my skidplate to get my front DS off, so a small ratchet and lots of pushing blind to get the cv off the yoke. Then climbing out from under the jeep, lifting a wheel to spin it so I could get the other side of the DS spun to an accessible spot so I could then get that little ratchet back in.
Not bad for a late afternoons work. Plus I was pressed for time, finish before the hockey game! But it had to be done today, the last few days of the Deerfoot500 had that cv shaking the jeep pretty bad. So, problem now identified and partially solved.
-
sounds like u need a bigger hammer next time u change your wheel berrings.
1. beat socket on head of bolt with big hammer. :D \
2.beer break :P
3. use big hammer again to beat on the back of the wheelberring :shock:
4. beer break :P
5. antiseize and re assemble (with out big hammer)
-
nice!
I did mine a couple weeks ago...
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cherokee/2001/02_feb/bearing/
that page gives all the numbers to torque stuff to... was WAY easier than I was thinking too!
cheers