Calgary Jeep Association
4x4 Related Groups => Tech Talk => Topic started by: WK2008 on October 20, 2011, 07:16:34 PM
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So I bought NUXJR's Rango and I'm happy with the purchase. I am having an issue with a driveline vibration and it's through the whole rig. I checked the normal stuff like tires and wheels and there is no issue there. I am at a loss and not sure where to start next. Any suggestions as I will get Jay @ Chanda to look at it but not sure what would cause this
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U-joints
a crappy CV shaft
Warped rotors
Ball joints going
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Take it back to the seller and get them to figure it out ;D
Sorry Rob, I could not resist
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Was telling John yesterday it's just that his azz is way more sensitive than anyone elses....take that however ya like it :o ;) Sorry John, was totally set up by yourself ;D :P
But seriously folks, ball joints just 2 yrs old, pwr slot rotors less than 2 yrs old and babied, last time I checked u-joints were all fine, CVs are hard to diagnose without taking out. I dunno, the slight vibes I picked up on once and a while I figured were just prolly tire related. Hopefully Jay comes up with something that ends up simple.
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Could easily be a wheel balance issue. Hard to tell without throwing them on a machine. A memory foam seat cushion might be a simple solution :)
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Is it lifted? If so then check the rear shaft angle.
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loose pinion is the source of my vibes
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loose pinion is the source of my vibes
I am leaning in this direction and the driveshaft direction. Everything else seems to be in good order. Thanks for the tips guys.
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At what speed is it vibrating??
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Between about 85 and 110 and it's not every time as if it were tires. It seems to be worse under load for sure which leads me back to driveline
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So it appears I have found the culprit. I learned something new about lug nuts when you buy new wheels. The typical hub centric OEM wheels will used a normal 60 degree tapered lug nut where most aftermarket wheels require new lug nuts which are still tapered but have a shorter taper and a bulge at the start of the taper. The bulge plays a key role in centering the lug nuts to the wheel and ultimately centering the wheel. This is not such a huge concern with hub centric aftermarket wheels, but more if they are lug centric for multiple vehicles with the same bolt pattern but different hub diameters. In the end, the lug nuts from the OEM wheels were used, as I have done in the past, and ultimately was not allowing the wheel to be centered on the lugs. I also learned it is super important to tighten the nuts by hand first and then hand torque the wheels. Again, not such a huge concern with OEM wheels, but if you have aftermarket wheels it's probably best to only use the impact for removal and not installation. I hope this helps someone else too as I will be picking up some new nuts tomorrow from Wheel Pros and this should fix the problem. I spoke to McGard and they told me this is why almost all aftermarket install kits for non OEM wheels are the bulge acorn style not just the 60 degree acorn style.
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As a side bonus: Youll get those lug nuts off when the impact aint handy. I always tighten by hand.
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It Will be a practice I will follow now for sure. Impacts really can make a mess of a wheel or studs in the wrong hands
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So how did you come to this revelation?
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After every other option was exhausted I went to wheel pros and this is what they have suggested. When in doubt, ask the experts.
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Is the vibration gonzo? If so, this has been a great example of 'right way vs not so right way'. Thanks for the education John ;D
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So the best education here is to never buy Goodyears. We tried everything including road force to get these to stop shaking and after my frustrations got the best of me I pulled the pin on some Toyo MTs. They ride amazing for a 10 ply and are the same for noise as the dura tracs In the end my vibration is 90% better as you can't expect perfection from mud tires. I always have the WK with studs for the really icy and dicey days