Calgary Jeep Association
4x4 Related Groups => Tech Talk => Topic started by: Jrama on January 10, 2012, 04:14:52 PM
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I am in the process of overhauling my front diff, and have a couple questions...
What does this mean?
This picture is taken with the outer pinion bearing race removed
(http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae257/Jamalrama/IMG_0825.jpg)
(http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae257/Jamalrama/IMG_0823.jpg)
Sooooo.....what am I looking at here?
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Haha means start looking for a new diff...lol
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Sooooo.....what am I looking at here?
A solid justification for a diff upgrade.
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That might explain the ticking sound....
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I had some play in my pinion despite the gears not even being a year old (the whole reason behind the rebuild). The bearings looked fine for the most part, I take it this is why the pinion had play and would not tighten up?
Here is another pic with the old race installed
(http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae257/Jamalrama/IMG_0806.jpg)
It's funny the pinions been out for 2 days and I never noticed the massive gap there until i went to install the new races....
Any ideas on what causes a failure like this?
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it might just be me or just the pictures but what gap are you refering to .. from what is see is the oil feed for the pinion bearing . can you get a clear shop or this or circle the so called gap your talking about
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it might just be me or just the pictures but what gap are you refering to .. from what is see is the oil feed for the pinion bearing . can you get a clear shop or this or circle the so called gap your talking about
Just whats in the first picture is the gap I am talking about, if that is an oil feed all is well, it looks like a chunk missing right in front of the edge of the race. This is my first time rebuilding a diff so I am not sure. Now that I look at it closer, and use something called logic an oil feed makes sense. There is a lot of oil in there haha
This is the first and certainly not the last question I'll have about this whole deal.
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The only thing i see wrong are the dents in your races ;-)
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Just whats in the first picture is the gap I am talking about, if that is an oil feed all is well, it looks like a chunk missing right in front of the edge of the race. This is my first time rebuilding a diff so I am not sure. Now that I look at it closer, and use something called logic an oil feed makes sense. There is a lot of oil in there haha
This is the first and certainly not the last question I'll have about this whole deal.
im pretty sure its just your oil feed .. did u find any chunks of metal when you pulled the diff apart . and as BINARE said youll want to clean up those dents and burs where the race will sit ..
if u didnt find any metal peices i wouldnt worry about it
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I only found the smallest little shavings at the bottom so I think I'm good.
Any good ways to set the Pre-load on the pinion without a dial indicator? I'll buy one if i have too, but otherwise...meh
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Any good ways to set the Pre-load on the pinion without a dial indicator?
Im no expert but if your pinion had play even after tighten up the yoke nut ...yep your bearings were probably fucked.
Keep the same shim you had originally on your d30 pinion gear. It should work ok or be close. I have extras if you need some.
you don't check the preload with a dial indicator... you need a fancy torque wrench to put on your Yoke nut.
You set your back slash with a dial indicator... PA has some cheapos that do the trick. Verify what the spec should be when your gears are worn.
like I said...i'm no expert ...please correct me if im wrong
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I'm just working on getting the crush sleeve to start to crush and.......holy frack that thing takes some force, I'm just putting the jack under the handle of the breaker bar and letting it do the work.
^^Yes I mean Dial inch/lb torque wrench not dial indicator.
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Be careful! Once it starts to tighten up it goes very quickly.
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To be honest, the whole assembly still hasn't tightened up yet (very close), I am assuming I hit the crush sleeve due to the gigantic increase in difficulty turning the nut.
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(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a318/CatSplat/baf5ea12.jpg)
Those are the areas I would be concerned about. If the race mounting surface is not smooth, it can create areas of excessive force on the pinion bearing leading to a very short bearing life. If the gouges don't extend all the way to the race, you'll likely be fine. It's a bit tough to tell from the photo, and the picture with the old race in doesn't seem to show the gouges.
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Those gouges are not good but can be smoothed out with a piece of emery cloth. They may have been caused by some previous owner pounding in the race with a misdirected blow. When you install the new race use a race install tool or gently tap it in with a punch.
If you have time throw the race in the freezer overnight which will shrink it enough to make installation a bit easier.
The crush sleeve can take a massive amount of torque to crush. As Clay said, proceed slowly because once it starts it can go real quick.
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^^Funny the whole jeep is in a freezer, I used a torch to warm up the housing as the race did not want to go in. A little warmth and there were no more issues.
Alright so I got things set up and installed the carrier and used the marking compound to take a pattern and well..
Drive
(http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae257/Jamalrama/IMG_0840.jpg)
Coast
(http://i977.photobucket.com/albums/ae257/Jamalrama/IMG_0834.jpg)
Dang
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its pretty damn close .. hows the back lash
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Right now I do not have a dial indicator or calipers (yet), I just did this because my rebuild kit came with marking compound ;D
Looking at the chart patterns its seems to be off a bit? Is it usable?
Drive is a bit close to the root and in some section its *toe* bias
(http://www.google.ca/url?source=imglanding&ct=img&q=https://w05.dealerconnect.chrysler.com/service/mds2002/serviceInfo/en_US/80d04e58.gif&sa=X&ei=GKMPT9bOMPC40gGl-7y3Aw&ved=0CAwQ8wc&usg=AFQjCNGs3qCq5hps28lSeZ_9SPI-qqhwEQ)
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Find out your backlash and get back to us. Cant comment much about it with out knowing the BS.