Calgary Jeep Association
4x4 Related Groups => Tech Talk => Topic started by: Jrama on March 26, 2012, 06:07:45 PM
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I'm looking to do a Flat belly T-case skid any particular brand or preference among the masses? Something that will be relatively easy to source in Calgary that works well. Any suggestions?
Top contenders
UCF
http://www.undercoverfab.com/transfer-case-skid-plates/51-hd-transfer-case-skid-plate-for-03-06-jeep-wrangler-tj-lj-aluminum-high-clearance.html
Genright
http://northridge4x4.ca/proddetail.php?prod=GEN-SKP8403
Savvy has that REAL nice Aluminium one....but it is a full under armour piece....and I'm not looking to spend that much, when all I want is a T-case skid.
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Do it all...
http://forum.calgaryjeep.com/index.php?topic=25047.0
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If you do change your mind about Savvy, let me know. I can help with pricing from them.
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Jamal, Savvy is the way to go :)
Thanks again Bill for recommending their under armor - I couldn't be happier :) no more high-centering for me!!! Now, I just need to learn how to drive ::)
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The more I look into the Savvy the better option it seems to be...Huge advantage comes from just how low profile the skid is, in conjunction with overall design....it is hard to beat.
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LOVE my UCF ultra high clearance.
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LOVE my UCF ultra high clearance.
Who did you order it from?Do you have any pics?
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Who did you order it from?Do you have any pics?
Just call Matt directly (334) 797-7113
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I'm liking the UCF now..., they have tons of options and are a little cheaper and still get great reviews. I'll probably do the full skid system which is similar to savvy.
Only one question remains Is the aluminium worth it? It's lighter, I just can't imagine it being too big of a difference....weight saving seems like a moot point when you consider the crap that gets bolted on to the jeep on a regular basis....I got the MTR/K's over the toyos I think that saved me enough weight that I can take on the steel skid ;D
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Only one question remains Is the aluminium worth it?
Well...taking entire savvy skid under armor off and putting it back on is easier (due to weight) than it was to lift the stock skid plate into place, so I think the aluminum is worth it for that reason alone...and there's a drain hole for changing the engine oil ;)
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Ended up ordering UCF Ultra high clearance system, in ALUMINIUM. Turns out shipping is a little over double for steel due to the weight...so it was enough for me to switch.
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Jealous! me want. Can I come dry hump it when it lands?
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You cannot
I'll post photos though :o
Anyways I need to buy a pair of rear uppers...when i spot this..http://undercoverfab.com/long-arm-upgrades/114-ucf-long-arm-upgrade-kit-for-jeep-tj-wrangler.html I can build my 3" lift into long arm setup....in the future......
I'll probably just get currie uppers..short arms are still good right?
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What did shipping set ya back?
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A little more money, but hands down a FAR superior suspension. I would strongly suggest staying away from that RC suspension.
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info.php/cPath/17_125/products_id/355
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A little more money, but hands down a FAR superior suspension. I would strongly suggest staying away from that RC suspension.
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info.php/cPath/17_125/products_id/355
With 3-4" suspension lift and a max 35" tire size would long arms really be worth it over a quality short arm kit like Currie in a practical sense? I know the Clayton kit does change suspension geometry to outperform a stock-ish short arms setup anyday, I have heard that long arms don't come into their own until your above 35" tires and want a smooth ride.
90 bucks for shipping
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The clayton setup is a "mid arm" suspension. It is definately a nice upgrade to any shortarm. It will perform slightly better during articulation, climb significantly better, and handle/ride significantly better then a quality short arm.
The short will definately get the job done, and is a good suspension as well when done right. Specially if you stay 2-3" with the lift.
4" and more on SA's dramatically effect the handling, ride quality, and climbing performance on TJ's.
Also, if you are using full size johnny joint lowers, its very easy to just weld in a set of clayton brackets down the road and build some lowers using your existing JJ SA's. You either build new links, or stretch your originals.
Joints are the most expensive component of any suspension. If you already have a full JJ SA, done right, you can custom mid arm it for WELL under 1000$ in parts.
Lowers tubing is 10/ft. You only need 10 ft.
Uppers tubing is less then 5$/ft, and you need about 9ft.
A full bracket set from clayton, meaning front and rear frame brackets, rear link bridge, and front link bridge is less then 500$. Probably 550 shipped.
So 150$ in tubing, 550$ in brackets, the use of your existing SA components and you are set up on a full custom mid arm suspension.
The key is using good stuff in the first place that you can continue to use down the road as you upgrade.
That way you can build in stages as money allows, but not lose your shirt selling an entry level suspension you bought for pennies on the dollar and then turning around and paying full price for a whole new system.
Lots of options, but my main point was to make it clear that the RC lift that caught your eye really is not quality suspension for dollars spent.
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So I got the skid on today no mml and no "low pro" transmission mount only a 1.25" BL. Took modification of the fan shroud, setting rear pinion angle and installation of rear uppers. No clearancing of the tub was needed and it drives nice on the road got it up to about 120 with no problems.
One problem does however exist, (because I did not buy the trans mount i assume) the gear shifter basically can touch the dash...the whole transmission is sitting like an 1 1/2" more forward now (which probably explains why it was and absolute bitch to line up).it is drive-able but very annoying. So I guess I'm in for another 125+GST+Shipping+Duty...oh and another 5 days
I'll post some pictures of installation and all that later.
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While the lo-pro is probably the way to go, what about removing and bending the shifter cane?
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Yeah I'm trying to think my way out of this, I have the center console plastic removed right now in order to drive it. I would have to trim quite a bit of it in order to shift with it on. This is the base of the shifter not the stick...
I'll let post up with whatever happens
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Mml will fix that easily
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^^ Yeah that makes sense, I'll get a mml on there and see what happens. It should tilt the tranny back sending the shifter backwards away from the dash, I just hope it will make enough of a difference.
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It should, you might not be able to have the actual boot attached, but you could always move the entire console back abit. theres a 1/2" or so of room.
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I tried jacking the motor up 1" to mimic a MML and it only moved the stick back about 1/2" or so. I'm going to go a different route, I'm going to call UCF tomorrow and ask him what the low pro mount can do for me in this situation see what he says.
Otherwise, make a shifter that works and cut the plastic consul.
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Pull the shifter
Place in vice
Heat
Bend
Fit
Repeat until happy with location
Re install shifter
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Obviously the best solution....
http://media.photobucket.com/image/beer%20shifter%20knob/val4884/mi%20coche/DSC01675.jpg