Calgary Jeep Association
4x4 Related Groups => General Talk => Topic started by: RookieRecurve on June 19, 2012, 01:20:21 PM
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Any thoughts, opinions, or experiences with different snatch blocks on here? I am thinking I should get one. I was thinking about the Smittybilt #36,000 one to go with my #12,000 winch. The Warn one is about twice as much. How often do most of you pull out the snatch block?
Thanks
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Depends on how badly you or the vehicle you are pulling is stuck. I use mine multiple times a year: winter camping in 4ft of snow, vehicle recoveries, or pulling myself upright. It came with my Champion winch and does the job.
A lot of people will never use it... depends on what you wheel and how much.
My 2 cents: It's a must in your recovery gear. When you need it, you will be glad you had it. Doesn't have to be the biggest and most expensive.
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I suppose that if you have to ask the question, you don't need it....
Mainly they get used when you need to pull from a direction that is not convenient to place the truck with the winch. It all depends on the situation. Sometimes they are needed all of the time, sometimes not.
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I'd buy one, better have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
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I use mine atleast half the time. Straight pulls make it easier on the winch and whatever its connected to at the sacrifice of speed. Others might have an opinion on the size but a 36k will be huge and you'll never that high of a rating before your line or winch crap outs.
Here's one for sale
http://forum.calgaryjeep.com/index.php?topic=25633.0
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Technically, if I was going to do a double-line pull with a #12,000 winch I should have a #24,000 rated snatch block. I doubt that I would ever achieve the #24,000 of pull, but the smittybilts jump for #18,000 to #36,000. And at half the cost of a warn, smitty seems like a good option. I have not needed one yet, as I have just started wheeling. Like some of you mentioned, better to have it and not need it then the opposite.
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you bet.... then you can drive straight into that hole and pull yourself right out!!!! ;D
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I am thinking that hole will require a triple line pull. Better order two snatches!
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Make sure all the attaching equipment is also rated for the same amount, ie shackles and tree savers to a min of 24,000lbs
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Technically there's more to it then just a simple double line pull needs a twice rated block. If your block is attached to a tree, rope coming back to you and your winching yourself out, your running a fixed block, no mechanical advantage gained, 12000 max pull. If your winching someone else out, block attached to them, youve got a running block, mechanical advantage is 2 to 1, double line pull.
It's not as simple as just using one, they can be fuggin down right dangerous if you don't understand how to use one properly. Keep in mind that there is a difference between one rated at 36000 working load and one rated at 36000 breaking strength. In either case, you'll tear that winch right off its mount or break a 3/4 D ring loooooong before you'll snap the pin on a snatch block, if you've rigged it properly. Whatever your winching out would have to be proper mired to max out a double line pull with a running block rigged to worry about NEEDING 24000 lbs of breaking stength, and if you did, you better make damn sure everything else is upto snuff ;)
Id personally rather snap a block pin then yard the winch or mount off my frame, but to each there own. Mind the heat generated at the block pin too, just as important as the load.
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The benefits of a block in self recovery where a fixed block is typically used is to get more line out, so you can GET rated line pull, not DOUBLE it.
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Technically there's more to it then just a simple double line pull needs a twice rated block. If your block is attached to a tree, rope coming back to you and your winching yourself out, your running a fixed block, no mechanical advantage gained, 12000 max pull.
Sorry, That's not correct. If you block is attached to the tree and the line runs back to your front bumper (I think that's the scenario you're describing), then you will reel in two feet of winch line for every one foot forward that you move - which is a 2:1 mechanical advantage. The block is stationary, but your winch is moving, which means that you do not have a fixed block when viewed relative to your winch.
If your winching someone else out, block attached to them, youve got a running block, mechanical advantage is 2 to 1, double line pull.
Correct.
It's not as simple as just using one, they can be fuggin down right dangerous if you don't understand how to use one properly. Keep in mind that there is a difference between one rated at 36000 working load and one rated at 36000 breaking strength.
Yes....but given how seldom a peice of recovery gear will be used anywhere near it's designed limits, keeping the load below the stamped WLL or breaking strength is probably just fine.
In either case, you'll tear that winch right off its mount or break a 3/4 D ring loooooong before you'll snap the pin on a snatch block, if you've rigged it properly. Whatever your winching out would have to be proper mired to max out a double line pull with a running block rigged to worry about NEEDING 24000 lbs of breaking stength, and if you did, you better make damn sure everything else is upto snuff ;)
Yes. Take a look at EVERYTHING that will be part of your rigging system. Tree saver, clevis, snatch block, hook, winch line, winch, how the winch is mounted to the bumper, the bumper itself, how the bumper is mounted to the frame, what sort of hardware is used in connecting the winch, bumper, and frame....you get the picture. I keep a 1" clevis in the back of my heep to use when anchoring for really ugly pulls. I have't actually had to use it yet, and hope that I never do. ::)
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A snatch block is good to have primarily for angling your line. If you need the line pull of a snatch block on a 12k winch you risk a lot of damage.
A 9k winch can fold the suspension on a jeep with a straight single line pull.
Its important that you try to recover via the path of least resistance.
But still, you should definately have on in the recovery bag just in case.
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Hey Todd, I know ya know your recovery so this is just a question. I thought it was a fixed block and all you are doing is changing direction if the block isn't moving but the winch or "effort" and the anchor is. That's incorrect? I always thought a fixed block offered no mechanical advantage and a block that didn't move was always fixed. That's incorrect?
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What determines the mechanical advantage is whether or not the block is fixed in relation to the winch. Whether the block moves towards the winch (you are winching someone's Jeep) or the winch moves towards the block (you are winching your own Jeep towards a tree), the principle is the same....for every foot that the distance between the block and the winch decreases, your winch pulls in two feet of line.
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Ya I figured out my err. If the block goes to a tree, then to a jeep beside the one winching, no mechanical advantage. Nows a good time for your recovery link ;)
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If the hook end of the winch line is connected onto the the vehicle that it came from you'll have a mechanical advantage, anchor the the hook anywhere else and all you are doing is changing the direction/angle.
I've only ever used my snatch block once for doubling the load. A Ramcharger stuck overnight in a mud hole with a blown motor(ie dead pull no assist). Yanking with a strap didn't even budge him. Needed two Jeeps to anchor me.
Every other time I pulled it out was for an angle change. Its extremely handy for pulling someone back onto the trail after slipping off sideways and they need to be pulled sideways back onto the trail and you are behind them.
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With 3 blocks you can pull yourself backwards with a front mounted winch :o
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I've got a Rugged Ridge one... used it once and did it's job...