Calgary Jeep Association
4x4 Related Groups => Tech Talk => Topic started by: jeriko on November 20, 2012, 10:57:43 PM
-
SO.... I blew the u joints in my cherokee and I don't know what to replace them with. And every parts store I've called and visited are retarded when it comes to jeeps apparently...
Both u-joints in the front axle (transfer case and diff) and the diff u-joint in the rear axle. Would appreciate help as I cannot find markings on them to figure out what I need. Thanks in advance.
-
Driveshaft u-joints should be Spicer 1310.
-
Go to auto value on 52 and 17 talk to a guy named kassem hell help you out any part I need for my jeep he helps me out and not once have I asked for something and they didn't have it they always had the parts I needed in stock. To name a few.... u joints for my drive shafts alt starter steering box clutch crank sensor lol every thing!!!
-
Make sure you get real spicer u-joints, pats driveline sells them. They're about the same price as the knockoffs that autovalue sells.
I just replaced one those no-name joints for the second time in my driveshaft, while the spicer joints are still going strong.
-
Make sure you get real spicer u-joints, pats driveline sells them. They're about the same price as the knockoffs that autovalue sells.
I just replaced one those no-name joints for the second time in my driveshaft, while the spicer joints are still going strong.
+1 I've never had much luck with autovalues brand of joints.
-
+1 I've never had much luck with autovalues brand of joints.
+2 on this. Pat's is now selling a different brand (I think).
Real Spicers can be bought at a company called DANCO 403-253-6421
-
The ones I got this past week were super duty joints they r much beefer then the stock Spicer ones I had and re greaseable
-
Definitely get the Dana Spicers, part # 5-760x, which is a non greasable upgrade over the stock u-joints.
-
The ones I got this past week were super duty joints they r much beefer then the stock Spicer ones I had and re greaseable
Those are the ones that I'm referring too, they cost twice as much and are half as good as the spicers. In my experience greasable ujoints are not a good thing.
-
It depends on how you use t I guess I like the regreasble ones this way I know when they r greased and when they aren't, also if u do a lot of water/ mud crossing the greasble ones u can force any water or muddy water that seeps in to them.
-
I've always had great success with Spicer snap tite series joints , non greasable (greasing is done at time of assembly ) . They have an extra measure of protection in the way they "snap" into position on assembly and seal up better than anything I've ever used.
I have a fleet background , on and off road units , we would routinely replace lot's of U joints with the best we could get , it was never about how cheap the parts are , how long they last and how strong they are is far more important .
-
I have heard the non greasable have a better seal than greasable joints, anyone hear the same..or different? Not really much luck running greasable joints...they need greasing too often....
-
I have heard the non greasable have a better seal than greasable joints, anyone hear the same..or different? Not really much luck running greasable joints...they need greasing too often....
I've also heard the same thing and they are stronger as well since they don't have a hole going through them.
-
I guess we learn from our own mistakes lol I bought them and installed them I'm not taking them off lol if they go with in a year I'll replace them lol
-
It depends on how you use t I guess I like the regreasble ones this way I know when they r greased and when they aren't, also if u do a lot of water/ mud crossing the greasble ones u can force any water or muddy water that seeps in to them.
There's pretty much a set way to use a ujoint no? What else would you use it for? Mud and water are one of the reasons greasables suck. If grease can get in, so can mud and water. They also are weaker. I once made the terrible mistake of replacing my 10 year old joints with greasables, they ALL failed within 2 seasons of each other, rusted right out and I greased em everytime I did the rest of the chassis. I replaced The greasables with Spicer non greasable (factory joints) as they failed and never lost one in the following 5 years before I sold it. Sorry but your arguements for, are actually against them ;)
The best advice given on this topic is to use the Spicer non-greasables, enough said.
-
I guess we learn from our own mistakes lol I bought them and installed them I'm not taking them off lol if they go with in a year I'll replace them lol
Hey, at least it's a cheap lesson ;D
-
There is a set way. There's a way where u drive normal and another way where u climb a mountain and add huge tires and such
I'm not arguing with u here each person in the world has there own saying about something. Its a hit miss problem here. Like people say the d35 is bad and people snapped them running 31s and even 30 inch tires then u have people that have ran 37s on that poor axle.
And if u grease them joints as u said u did I fail to see how they rusted through perhaps its just a brand thing. If the re greasble joints were that bad then they wouldn't make them and they wouldn't be 2 or 3 times the cost of stick non grease able ones :)
To each there own at the end of the day lol
-
And if u grease them joints as u said u did I fail to see how they rusted through perhaps its just a brand thing. If the re greasble joints were that bad then they wouldn't make them and they wouldn't be 2 or 3 times the cost of stick non grease able ones :)
To each there own at the end of the day lol
I think the problem with greasable ones comes when they are completely and repeatedly submerged in mud and water. I have noticed a shorter life-span than non-greasable ones and when greased they have crap in them always. My stock U-Joints outlived every greasable installed...and never needed grease.
-
They r good for normal driving and trial rides not mud bogging but water will get in to anything when I grease mine I make sure it over flows out of all 4 sides yet again some people don't like to waste the time to grease them but I don't mind when I took my joints out one was dry all of it and bearings where crushed the other one 3 sides were bone dry and one just had a tad bit stuck on the tip
-
If you can squeeze grease out, water, sand, dirt etc. can get in. You don't need to go boggin to get dirt and crap in a cap. Just driving down the road will do it.
The advice given here is not for you, its for the op so I'm not sure why your arguing the point other then justifying your purchase. You'll be hard pressed to find many that will recommend the joints you get at Autovalue when the OEM Spicers can be had cheaper, require little to no maintenance and last a hell of a lot longer.
If you like em, great. But there really is no need to defend your choice, your choice is not the topic of discussion. OP asked for advice, and he's getting best advice out there, that's all there is too it.
-
I'm not arguing r defending anything ur say the ones I got are bad and the sealed Spicer ones r good that's all weather the op gets the one I got or the sealed ones its up to him
Op and any others should take a look at this site and decide for our self's
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/summer2008/ujoints.htm
-
Sealed Spicer ujoints are the better joints.
There is no arguement. You either know this, or you dont.
Even spicer prices their sealed joints at almost double that of their greasables. Things that make you go hmmm.
-
I'm not arguing r defending anything ur say the ones I got are bad and the sealed Spicer ones r good that's all weather the op gets the one I got or the sealed ones its up to him
Op and any others should take a look at this site and decide for our self's
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/summer2008/ujoints.htm
Fugg man, do you even know how to read? I said the Spicer ones are better and half the fugging price, I don't give a sh!t if your joints are bad, purple, made of gold, fit perfectly in your arse, I could give 2 sh!ts. I've had the same joints as you, MINE were the definition of crap! Id seriously rather go slam my cok in a door then entertain your babbling on about being bum hurt over a fugging ujoint! Suck it up and go have fun with your Jeep!
Just becuase you read something on the internet doesn't make it true, just becuase something costs twice as much, doesn't make it better.
-
Few years ago I had to replace my front axle u-joints and ordered a pair of Spicer 5-760X joints.
Both lasted only a little over a year.
Have been using Part Source or Auto Value greasable u-joints since, although they're not bulletproof either. Had one explode (sheared off a couple of the caps completely).
Screw it, I'm saving for RCV axles.