Calgary Jeep Association
4x4 Related Groups => Tech Talk => Topic started by: Bnine on November 02, 2006, 10:48:13 AM
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This is a basic rear 4 link you can do using a combonation of aftermarket parts and some stuff built at home.
This jeep already had a 4 link, but this mod was done to upgrade some parts, and address some maintenance issues.
Im finished the project now, and just need to snap a few more pictures. I'll get those in here soon, to show the finished product including the exhaust.
For this one, we use a Rock Krawler weld in truss, rock krawler bushing joints, and evolution heim joints.
Here's the how to for the most part.
This is the RK truss on the axle. It centers perfectly between the swaybar brackets.
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/xbninex/Various%20Builds/DSC02876.jpg)
To fit the truss you need to cut off the rear uppers bracketry, and the rear track bar bracket. Then clean up around the area.
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/xbninex/Various%20Builds/DSC02875.jpg)
Fit it and weld it up. A little forward tilt to improve clearence of the truss and gas tand skid is a good idea on rubi's. Right around 90 degrees from your spring perches is a good starting point. DO NOT set the truss like that if using a complete RK set up and stock frame bracketry.
Alos forgot to add. Support the axle under the pumpkin when you weld the truss in, and take a lot of care let welds cool between different stitches to avoid warping the tubes, and allow the tubes to cool on their own. Take you time, this is riskyest part of this mod, you can wreck you axle if you get over zealous with the welder.
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/xbninex/Various%20Builds/DSC02880.jpg)
Cut off and clean up all your stock upper control arm bracketry from the inside of the frame.
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/xbninex/Various%20Builds/DSC02882.jpg)
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/xbninex/Various%20Builds/DSC02881.jpg)
Find some material to make new brackets. For this, I used 1/4", 2 x 6 rectangle tubing. The RK bushing joints fit into that tube perfectly. If you are using different joints, use the tubing that works.
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/xbninex/Various%20Builds/DSC02884.jpg)
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/xbninex/Various%20Builds/DSC02885.jpg)
Bracket drilled for adjustability.
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/xbninex/Various%20Builds/DSC02888.jpg)
This shows a 1/2" wide strip of 1/4" plate welded down the back of the bracket on a 45. This spaces the bracket from the frame, and allow you access to the nut when tightening the joint down.
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/xbninex/Various%20Builds/DSC02891.jpg)
The RK joints, cleaned up with new Moog bushings installed.
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/xbninex/Various%20Builds/DSC02889.jpg)
Just a shot of the joints in their soon to be new homes :D
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/xbninex/Various%20Builds/DSC02890.jpg)
Re mount the axle back into the rig, with the springs in. Get the axle resting on stands at its ride height. Connect the driveshaft. Roll the pinion to the exact angle you want with a floow jack.
Center the axle side to side. Install your joints into the truss, place your brackets where you want them, and take a length measurement for the arms.
Centering the axle using a straight edge against the axle tube and a tape measure from straight edge to frame.
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/xbninex/Various%20Builds/DSC02893.jpg)
Mack up the arm lengths and bracket positions.
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/xbninex/Various%20Builds/DSC02898.jpg)
Prep arms to weld tubserts in
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/xbninex/Various%20Builds/DSC02897.jpg)
Complete arm RK bushing on one end, evolution heim joint on the other.
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/xbninex/Various%20Builds/DSC02895.jpg)
With everything macked up, cycle your suspension and check clearences.
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/xbninex/Various%20Builds/DSC02899.jpg)
Here you can see the pinion angle at full droop. I purposely made the arms a couple inches longer then the original RK setup to increase pinion roll. Now, the pinion points directly at the t-case at ride height, and at full droop. This will help him avoid tearing out CV center sections once he tucks the t-case.
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/xbninex/Various%20Builds/DSC02901.jpg)
With everything macked up, and suspension cycling checking out, start welding and gusseting the brackety.
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/xbninex/Various%20Builds/DSC02910.jpg)
(http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l262/xbninex/Various%20Builds/DSC02911.jpg)
This is a pretty basic rear link set up.
The adjustable brackets will allow you to make slight adjustments in your antisquat until you find what suites you and your rig the most.
This jeep originally had a bolt in rock krawler set up. A few of the things this upgrade addressed......
Bolted truss bolted to diff cover making diff work a pain
Arms with RK set up were to short to get optimum pinion angle because of the rubicons short shaft.
Bolted truss wouldnt clear the full tank
The welded truss is a much stronger unit.
The original arm were bent to clear exhaust. If left un maintained they can flop down and cause joints to bind.
The new heims used are preloadable, and rebuidable. The originals werent, and are prone to wear quickly in muddy areas. The new heims are to large to fit in the bolt on set ups bracket.
This isnt a small mod. But if you take your time, do it right, and use good components, you'll be really happy with it.
I'll get some final pictures and post them up within the next day or too.
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Man all that work and for what? You should have just put in leaf springs and call it a day.
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Man all that work and for what? You should have just put in leaf springs and call it a day.
hmmm
Yeah I guess I should have. How would I sell that one?
"Want to ride like a tank, and limit your flex by a good 25-30%? Come on down Bills retro fit garage. We'll take you and your jeep back in time" :lol: :lol: :lol:
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WOW that looks kick hass!!! 8)
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Nice work bill,
Did you do anything about the spring perches to compensate for rotating the pinion up? I modified mine by adding another stock perch at an angle on top of the original one. I did this because I also neede a bit more height.
I'm not entirely happy with my setup right now and plan on changing the rear upper arms and and doing something else with the spring perch this Winter.
Vince
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I left the perches Vince.
His angle is just slightly less then what mine was with a 4 inch lift, and 2 inch tuck.
His springs settle more then the RK's I ran, and he doesnt run a tuck. So no worries of puking the springs. Especially since I have the droop limited to just before the spings unseat.
I think Nth has a set up that eliminates the stock progressive perch angling. I've never had a problem with them yet, so pretty much left them alone.
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WOW that looks kick hass!!! 8)
WTF is
"kick hass"
crazy frenchie :lol:
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His way of not swearing in public...lol
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Good job bill, any noticable rear steer? I am finding in TJ with the links all being anchored off the frame etc its going to impossible for me to eliminate rear steer...Also cannot find a decent way to make a cross member up front around the pan/front DS/exhaust etc.
I am stuck keeping the control arms on the frame rails like your RK set-up, but have noticed some pretty decent rear steer and I dont like it :shock:
P.S. How do you know where to weld the truss on? In terms of pinion angle, do you just decide what you want your pinion to be, chock it up at that height/angle and weld the truss on so the top of the truss is flat/perpendicular??
-Joe
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Good job bill, any noticable rear steer? I am finding in TJ with the links all being anchored off the frame etc its going to impossible for me to eliminate rear steer...Also cannot find a decent way to make a cross member up front around the pan/front DS/exhaust etc.
I am stuck keeping the control arms on the frame rails like your RK set-up, but have noticed some pretty decent rear steer and I dont like it :shock:
P.S. How do you know where to weld the truss on? In terms of pinion angle, do you just decide what you want your pinion to be, chock it up at that height/angle and weld the truss on so the top of the truss is flat/perpendicular??
-Joe
Rear steer is inevitable, especially with a short arm. Only way to get around it is to use mile long links that pass eachother under the frame, are paralell with uppers, and pretty near touch the ground, and thats just over kill in my opinion. Its all about arch, the wider the arc (longer arms) the less the axle will steer.
I set up the truss for clearence under the rig first, at ride hieght and proper pinion angle, then just build the arms to the length that set up dictates, landing them where I want on the frame.
My long arm will be a bit more scientific because different lengths, and coil overs, but not a lot. Im pretty much following Brinks same line of thought and Im really impressed with how his works. Im doing about the same, with a few minor additions.
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"Want to ride like a tank, and limit your flex by a good 25-30%? Come on down Bills retro fit garage. We'll take you and your jeep back in time" :lol: :lol: :lol:
The tank comment, c'mon man you did not have to go that low, that hurt. Plus have you seen the new Teraflex SUA setup with fiberglass leafs and flex joint in the eyes
(http://www.bc4x4.com/inthenews/images/2006-09-07_teraflex_fiberglass_springs.gif)
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lol, that looks pretty rank. That cant be cheap :shock: :shock:
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Just carry a small can of fiberglass and if the spring breaks on the trail you can just patch her back up. :lol:
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Looks good Bill. I like that truss a lot. 8)