Calgary Jeep Association
4x4 Related Groups => Tech Talk => Topic started by: Pyro on December 05, 2006, 12:02:29 PM
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I have a shot wheel bearing thats aparently not covered by warrantee. I've heard it's a ton of work to replace.
Where's a good place to take it? How much should I be expecting to pay?
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bearings are that bad to replace. you'll have to buy a replacement unit and give yourself a half-day to change it out.
Judge for yourself...
http://www.jeeping.net/mambo/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=20&Itemid=47
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They arent that bad to do, but can be a fight if you havnt done them
What year and model of jeep?
I can do your bearing if you want, and you can hang out and learn to do it for the next time.
If its the right year, you can get partsmaster bearings from autovalue that are garruntied for life. If not, you can still BCA's from parts master that are garruntied for a year.
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Is it a front unit bearing? Or a rear wheel bearing?
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It's the front (passenger side) wheel bearing on an 03 TJ. I'm not too concened about warantees (should I be?). I'd definitly like to see it done.
They arent that bad to do, but can be a fight if you havnt done them
What year and model of jeep?
I can do your bearing if you want, and you can hang out and learn to do it for the next time.
If its the right year, you can get partsmaster bearings from autovalue that are garruntied for life. If not, you can still BCA's from parts master that are garruntied for a year.
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I think they are pretty simple. Hardest part is getting the 36mm bolt off and separating the unit bearing from the rest of the Jeep. Definitely a worthwhile do it yourself project. 6 bolts total.
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As per the write-up in this thread:
http://www.calgaryjeep.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2358&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=
So I replaced my passenger side front wheel bearing, and that was easier than I had thought!
- WD40 the heck out of the back three 1/2" bolt heads and let sit, then spray again and take a brillo pad to get exess rust/dirt off so the socket fits
- Loosen lug nuts, and take out cotter pin, cap, and loosen the big nut on the outside of the stub-shaft (36mm)
- Lift that side of the axel so tire gets off the ground
- take off wheel
- Take off caliper, and rotor (two bolts, can't remember size)
- undo the three 1/2" bolts on the backside
- gear puller, scratch head on how it works, put legs on lug studs, bolt down with lug nuts, align claws of legs on disc, thread in long push stud, thread in push stud so it pushes on stub-shaft end, spin till bearing assembly pops, set dust shield aside (or figure it out yourself)
- pull the washer from the used assembly, and clean out the gaping hole where the bearing assy came from
- CopprKote (Anti-seize and rust inhibitor made by JetLube) the stub shaft, the gaping hole, backside of the new bearing assy, the bolts holding the assy (or use some good grease)
- Remember the dust shield goes on before the new bearing assy!!
- torque up the three back bolts, and the big nut
- put the rotor and caliper back
- add the wheel
- retorque
Though I forgot to put the dust shield back on before the bearing assy, and I had done up the big nut that keeps the bearing assy on the outer stub-shaft. So I pulled the whole axel shaft out, and inspected the splines and the shaft. The splines were good, so I put some grease on them, and noted how dusty the shaft was. Time for some good seals other than the plastic dust bonnet that comes stock. Put the brake dust shield on, and reinserted the whole thing. Put lots of CopprKote all over the place and on all the threads. And buttoned it back up. I noticed that the ujoint between the main shaft and the stub shaft was not so hot, so those will have to be done soon.
I have no idea what the torque settings are supposed to be, if someone knows, can you post up? I don't have my own torque wrench, but I can use one from work to bring it all back to spec.
All said, took me just over three hours. Most of the time was lost cleaning the back three bolt heads so the socket would fit, and trying to get a socket off a bolt that I didn't clean so well.
Torque specs here
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cherokee/2001/02_feb/bearing/
The for the large nut that threads on the stub shaft, I used a breaker-bar and a socket I borrowed from work. No sniping required. Though, I'm used to turning big wrenches, otherwise, stand on it.
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http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/unitbearing/unitbearing-1.htm
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It's the front (passenger side) wheel bearing on an 03 TJ. I'm not too concened about warantees (should I be?). I'd definitly like to see it done.
yes u should be concerned about the warranty, i have a 99 jt, and have replaced both bearings, drivers side twice. for the same price, get the autovalue one for the lifetime warranty
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I had to use a torch and lube on one of mine.. the nut was so rusted on and never been off before.
You can actually buy the seperate bearing and seals to rebuild it your self but its to much work. Just get one from autovalue.