opinions on tire and wheel setup

[BlackYJ]

Honestly, I think you are making this rubbing issue a little too big.  I respect what you want, and on my dad's rig with 285s and moabs it only rubbed at full lock, back off an 1/8 of a turn and it was fine.  You really did not loose any turning radius and you only really noticed it in parking lots.  Therefore based on that I would say a 255 or 265 will be fine

[binare]

Honestly, I think you are making this rubbing issue a little too big.  I respect what you want, and on my dad's rig with 285s and moabs it only rubbed at full lock, back off an 1/8 of a turn and it was fine.  You really did not loose any turning radius and you only really noticed it in parking lots.  Therefore based on that I would say a 255 or 265 will be fine

Man its so hard to communicate on the internets sometimes. Cant make it big or small without any knowledge of it. Your post now gives me something. And that amount of rub is fugg all. All ive heard is... it rubs... or dont rub. Dont really care IF it rubs... Care more HOW MUCH it rubs. Thanks for your dads experience.. very helpful.

Ive heard others say they get rubbing on the rear spring perches too. not much of a fix for that other then clearancing your perches. Id say its a little important. 1500 bucks to trial and error a set of tires without asking for experiences on that setup wouldnt make much sense.

I know a 255 or 265 would be perfectly fine. As stated in my last reply ;-) Was just asking about options is all.

[Rubi03 jef]

as for maintenance side of things .. i ran my stock rubi tires for 1 year then went to boggers that ripped my front end apart . bearings steering u name it it broke or was badly used .. now im running 35 MTZ aggrssive but not crazy  12.5 wide   and my bearings are doing 2 years and are still in good shape . front end has been up graded to currie HD steering and it is just fine as well .. ball joints are good . so i wouldnt worry about 33's being a issues if its a MT or a AT

and i know what you mean by 10.5 having more  pressure on teh ground then a 12.5     thats fine if thats what your looking for so go 33 10.5 R 6  you shouldnt have to much rubbing if any at all .
just will have less option of tires in that size

[binare]

as for maintenance side of things .. i ran my stock rubi tires for 1 year then went to boggers that ripped my front end apart . bearings steering u name it it broke or was badly used .. now im running 35 MTZ aggrssive but not crazy  12.5 wide   and my bearings are doing 2 years and are still in good shape . front end has been up graded to currie HD steering and it is just fine as well .. ball joints are good . so i wouldnt worry about 33's being a issues if its a MT or a AT

and i know what you mean by 10.5 having more  pressure on teh ground then a 12.5     thats fine if thats what your looking for so go 33 10.5 R 6  you shouldnt have to much rubbing if any at all .
just will have less option of tires in that size

12.5 on a 35 aint crazy wide at all. Anything less and you def risk rolling a side wall in some situations for sure. I get from your posts that ya dont wheel like a panzy so its good to hear youve gone 2 years on the rubis version of a front end 44. I was surprised the first time I saw the knuckles on the 44s... was wondering what happened to the rest of em. Ill probably end up going 33x10.5 a 15. seems to make the most sense for what im going for.... in the end ill be doing a full droop setup.

[Rubi03 jef]

ya i wheeel mine very hard . its on 5.13 gears and chromly shafts . because the only thing that every broke really bad was a shaft . it exploded at teh ujoint and ripped both ends of the inner and outer shaft off it was bad.  but got it pulled apart in the snow and drove out in 2 wheel drive .. then thats when the gears and shafts went in .

ive heard bad things about the stock 44's but   so far im very happy with the abuse mine has taken . i have upgraded as much as i can at the moment and they have been very good to me .

i wouldnt be over worried at all with only 33's

[Dracitamo]

Well now you explained a whole different type of wheeling then your original post. The first one made it sound like you were afraid to get a little scratch on your rig in the bush and had a pretty mall crawler. Hence the civic post. Don't peg me as a typical "offroader" that is on this site that doesn't know how to wheel. No offense to them, but build a rig big enough and anyone can drive through a mud pit. You don't need a lift for wiaprious from what I've seen of it.  I'm more technical and prefer rock. One of the things that's lacking around here. Takes more skill to know your line... but we all know that. I've followed guys with 35's and lockers front and rear with my rig when I had 30's and open open.

Not a fan of mud? Me either, and you won't see me down at McLean hydrolocking, but I have had better experience with a wider tire aired down on rock then a smaller tire. To each their own though. I think you have gotten your responses here. I was going to PM you, but I'm not here to pick a battle with you and thought I'd clear the air. We obviously have different preferences in wheeling and why we and others will have difference of opinions on what to run.


and Jeff...

thats fine if thats what your looking for so go 33 10.5 R 16

- fixed

[binare]

Not sure how ya got mall crawler or civics in fields out of saying i dont hack and bash my way through trails. I run light on the gas peddle and work my through an obstacle not just bounce through it. Overlanding has nothing to do with malls or civics. Ive towed a 2000 pound through some of the greasiest crap ive seen imaginablefor days on end. Its all good man... ya just made an assumption on based on something i dunno what though. In reality the difference in 12.5 to 10.5 on a 33 makes little difference... just whats required to fit the width makes all the difference.

[FiEND]

Im gonna lock this troll session.  take your e-wheel-penis competition somewhere else.