Bnine - I've climbed your holy mountain seeking answers!

[Yellow RUBI]

Please explain your reply in a previous post regarding On Board Air

Engine driven is not very practical on a TJ. The serpentine system creates a lot of headaches. Its not the same thing as throwing together a v belted system.

I'm about to buy the Kilby setup for my 06 Rubicon!

Also
With out going over say 2-3" of lift, are changing control arms helpful/recommended for better flex and strength.
My goal is to run 33s but likely to their limit of capabilities.
Can RE control arms from a 3" lift be used on a lower or no lift suspension? Would they be Stronger than stock?

When running discos on a stock suspension should longer brake lines be installed, how much longer?

Thanx for any answers you can give me.
Brad

[fug]

Just curious why you don't want to go over 2" or 3" of lift but are considering new control arms?

Most BB boost get you 2" of lift and don't involve new control arms so I wouldn't think they are necessary for a lift that small. 

Looking at my RE control arms vs the stockers I'd have to say they are definitely stronger.   I wouldn't think you'd have any problem running a smaller than 4" lift because they are adjustable.

I ran a 4" lift using RE arms with 33's (and then 35's) for a couple of years.  I didn't have to extend the brake lines but I did have to do a transfercase drop.  The other thing to consider when running 33's is your gearing... I had stock 3.73's that did OK with the 33's but were not so wonderful when I went to 35's.  I did run the 35's for quite some time before I changed gearing so it can be done its just not as fun.

If you're interested... my RE arms (and 4" springs, JKS disco's etc) will be for sale after next weekend when we tear into my jeep for a long arm build.

[HeadHunter]

If you're interested... my RE arms (and 4" springs, JKS disco's etc) will be for sale after next weekend when we tear into my jeep for a long arm build.

I might interested in those, as I am about to put a 3" Black Diamond lift in when it arrives in the mail.

[hps4evr]

if you have a rubicon tj and a 4" lift or less, dont install the t/case drop. put the lift on and drive it first. they dont seem to vibrate or bind the driveshaft. the regualr tj's need it. something i noticed on a few rubicon jeeps.

[Yellow RUBI]

Fug,
I may take you up on that, lets talk $$. PM me your ballpark
As for why lets say added flex, and piece of mind, I have heard that the stock arms can bind and be a little week.
Also I'm planning on running a bellyup and maybe ACOS, those two together will likely require adjusting my pinion angle.
as well as the inevitable "maybe 35s......?"
 

[Bnine]

Please explain your reply in a previous post regarding On Board Air

I'm about to buy the Kilby setup for my 06 Rubicon!

Also
With out going over say 2-3" of lift, are changing control arms helpful/recommended for better flex and strength.
My goal is to run 33s but likely to their limit of capabilities.
Can RE control arms from a 3" lift be used on a lower or no lift suspension? Would they be Stronger than stock?

When running discos on a stock suspension should longer brake lines be installed, how much longer?

Thanx for any answers you can give me.
Brad

The Kilby system is really expensive. Probably its largest drawback.

Technically its a bit of a pain because it makes all front accessory drive work that much harder. When you install the Kilby, you eliminate your belt tensionr. The Kilby becomes the tensionor.

The belt itself is exceptionally long, expensive, and not always just sitting in stock.

THe compressor and oiling system is considerably high maintenance in comparison to other/simply systems. Just another thing to maintain.

The TJ comment is strickly based on cost and maintenance due to a TJ's serp system, the belt required, and Kilby's proprietary ownership on the serpentine clutch assemblies.

The upside is insane air. You need to decide if running air tools on the trail, and airing up a few minutes faster outweighs the maintenance and expenses of a Kilby kit.

Stock arms (primarily uppers) are considerably weak. At a minimum you want uppers to dial stuff in, and eliminate that weak link.

Lowers arent as bad, but are weak as well.

The other issue with stock arms if that the bushings just arent desinged to stand up to the abuse wheeling.

Once the bushings start to go, it is really common for them to start causing front end issues like death wobble.

Just about any adjustable short arm on the market will fit on a TJ with no lift, so long as it will dial down to about 16".

Brakelines are always a good idea, and disco'd you probably are seeing some stretch to the stock ones.

You can drill and relocate the hard to soft line hanger (just pull the hardline down a hair) and gain an inch or two, but the steel lines are also nice for adding a touch of firmness to the brake pedal.

If you get a brakeline kit, just get something for a 4" lift. That will be plenty.

Hope that helps answer a few questions.

[Yellow RUBI]

Bninie
Thanks for your answers.
About the control arms ,I was actually wondering about fixed lowers from a 3" lift that I had seen for sale on here.
Is it you that was building control arms last year?
If so how  much were you charging?
About the Kilby,
I already have a compressor and some of the misc stuff, the bracket kit and clutch can be had for under $400 plus shipping and I can prob get that for free as well so....

[Bnine]

Depends on what you want. I build them mild to wild...lol

Lowers range from 225-300/pair plus depending on what joints and hardware you want.

Front uppers are 200
Rear uppers 275

All my arms heavy duty, built to last, and still more affordable then anything similay after market.