jk lift for 35s?

[lil devil]

what is the right amount of lift to run 35s? what are some good lifts to buy and is there anyway to not lose warranty? thanks

[w squared]

Word in the US JK community is that a 2.5" BB or coil lift will do the job with "maybe" a "little" rubbing at full flex when you're disco'd. Other places say that you'll want 3" or 3.5". Obviously tread pattern will have an effect. Be aware that once you're over 3", you'll probably want to start looking at drivetrain mods, adjustable track bars, and adjustable control arms...or so I'm told. A lot of the kits will also come with things like track bar relocation brackets.

Also give some thought to gearing with 35's. That extra three inches will change things with regards to your driveline. A lot of folks say that they're just fine with their 4.10s and a six speed, but most folks with taller ratios seem to end up re-gearing.

The dominant brands amongst the US JK types seem to be Teraflex, Rubicon Express, Black Diamond, Full Traction, and Old Man Emu. For my money, when I lift, I'm probably going to go with Teraflex or Rubicon Express.

You'll probably need wheels with less backspacing or at the very least a set of spacers. Otherwise a 35 X 12.5 will rub no matter how much lift you have. Some folks have done some pretty good damage to their ABS systems that way. If you're happy with tall, skinny tires...then stock wheels may just work for you. YMMV.

As far as warranty goes, I've been told that the Rubicon Express kits actually have MOPAR stock numbers, and once installed can actually be covered by warranty. (If this is untrue, please don't shoot the messenger)

[sn4cktime]

Screw the warranty.  Throw some River Raider tube fenders on there, bust out a 4-6" Long Arm Teraflex kit, with Off Road Evolution Front Coil-Over System, and the Evo Lever Rear.  It'll ride politely on the road and be able to jump dunes!  *cough* you MAY need a loan or big wallet though...  that might be the direction mine's eventually headed....

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BUT a more realistic answer for you.  A 2-3" lift will clear the tires.  Stock tires will rub on the inside edge if you disco regardless of lift with stock wheels due to backspacing.  You "should" have between 3.75" - 4.25" ideally.  the stock JK X steelie wheels are 6.25" for example - no good.

You can get a Rough Country lift that comes with 2.5" coil spacers and shock extensions for $139.00 US.  With shipping it's under $200.  Body-lifted JK's look like s*** due to the tub being sooo rounded, plus you might have to tweak the stick shift if a manual.  TeraFlex makes some nice suspension budget boosts, but they cost a little more.  To compensate for the backspacing issue you can get different wheels (but options are fairly limited for the 5 on 5 pattern still) or can run a proper wheel spacer like a SpiderTrax or Teraflex.  Don't use the shim style you can find at some autostores as they shorten your effective wheel stud length and can cause them to shear.

[lil devil]

thanks so much lots of good info. sounds like there is no need for a 4".  2.5 or 3 is definetly cheaper. a set of disconnects and a better set of rims. gears can come later.  any input from somebody running a lift with 35s is welcome, would you of done something different from what you did and why would be great. thanks again

[sn4cktime]

Well, I'll be able to tell you what 35x12.5 BFG KM2's on Cragar 16's with 1.5" spacers on that 2.5" Rough Country lift feels like by next week at some point.

Once it's all on I'd be more than happy to meet up somewhere and you can have a quick look over it yourself too.

Flat fenders should be here by the end of this month, that helps a bunch.

[w squared]

Well, I'll be able to tell you what 35x12.5 BFG KM2's on Cragar 16's with 1.5" spacers on that 2.5" Rough Country lift feels like by next week at some point.

Once it's all on I'd be more than happy to meet up somewhere and you can have a quick look over it yourself too.

Flat fenders should be here by the end of this month, that helps a bunch.

Where'd you get your Cragar's from?  I like the look of the black soft 8's, and I'm gonna need some steelies for my winter 33's. Probably some for my summer 35's too, but that'll be in the spring.

[sn4cktime]

I got them from discounttiredirect.com, they're 16x8's

Price is cheap, shipping is free, duties kinda suck though, might be less without tires.  Pretty sure those have more taxes associated with them.

[sn4cktime]

http://forum.calgaryjeep.com/index.php?topic=10339.0

Pics of the above that just came in today.

[Z]

Did you get them shipped to your door or swing across the border?

[sn4cktime]

Right to my door.  Could always send em to SweetGrass just under the border and try and slide through with them on the jeep already..... drive through some mud first.  DTD.com seems like they prefer to run legit though, so not sure they'd do that.

[JackstandJohnny]

if you guys have some stock tires/wheels kicking around from your JKs i might be interested in taking them  off your hands....

[lil devil]

did you get that stuff done on your jeep yet? i want to see how it looks.

[sn4cktime]

JUST got back from my buddies' shop after getting the lift on.  I'll get the tires on it tomorrow.  They were too huge to get any more than 2-3 in the back.  And lifting and mounting a 104lb wheel/tire onto my rear carrier is definitely not a one guy job for someone of my build... 

Process went pretty smooth, front end is WAY easier to do than the rear due to the coils being so easy to get at.  I did the rear first, put both frame-rails up on jack stands, pulled tires, pulled the sway bolts, released a brake-line bracket, pulled the shocks out, drooped the coils, removed em.  Then reverse that with adding coil spacers and shock extensions.  It looks like it's pulling WAY to the driver's side, like 4-ish inches.  But once you re-bolt everything and get it down on the ground (so not FULLY drooped with the stock trackbars) it's maybe out 1/2" tops.  Then did more-or-less the same for the front.  Only difference is you have to torque the front sway links after setting it back down.  If you don't the sway bar kinda locks in the wonky side-pulled effect.  Took it for some rips around corners, tried to induce Death Wobble, flexed it.  Everything seems good as of yet.  No steering issues, when flexed the stock ABS and brake-lines still have lots of play (cut ABS-line clips in rear).  No rubbing with the stock tires.

Coils feel tight again, like when it was brand new.  I should have measured it before starting, but it IS higher than before.  My only concern with throwing on the new tires tomorrow is that the end of the pinch-seam in the rear might be too close to the tires.  If so I'll hafta slip someone in a body shop some bills to fold them inside so they don't slice my tires.

I'll try and get it done sometime early afternoon tomorrow.  Once it's done I'll snap some more cell-pics and chuck em up here.