Lock Right Lockers

[Crunch]

I know a lot of you run ARB lockers but has anyone used Lock Right Lockers?
They are alot cheaper but if they don't work well or stand up I won't waste the coin
Thanks

[cLAY]

Its an automatic locker meaning that as soon as you step on the gas it locks up vs and ARB which only locks up when you flip the switch. Some adjustment of driving habits may be needed such as coasting thru corners. I found lockrights to be almost unnoticeable behind an automatic tranny and really annoying behind a stick shift.

They only replace your side gears and use your existing carrier vs an ARB that replaces the whole carrier so its not as string as an ARB. It is usually ok behind a 4.0l with 33" tires provided you're not stupid with the throttle, but that could be said for a d35 in general.

[superles]

I believe I have a set of "lunch box lockers" for stock Dana 35 around here. "cheap"  they worked great for me, prob only had 6 runs or so then went with a bigger build.  If you are low hp and under 35" should be fine. On the street requires a bit different driving style. not sure what you need. Brand on this set is Ausie I believe and there is a break some where on gear set size.

[hps4evr]

i have a the lockright in the rear d35 in my yj. i got used to the way it works. even with a stick. winter or summer, i enjoy it. its easy to install, no gear change or adjustments to be made. i wouldnt go back to an open diff or LSD if i had the option. off road it never failed.

[Crunch]

what about rinning them in the front diff to?

[cLAY]

I would advise against it. Many do it but I feel only a selectable locker should be used in the front, especially if you street drive it in the winter and want to use 4wd. Have a locked front causes the vehicle to not want to steer. It wants to just plow straight ahead. In winter I often have to unlock my front locker to navigate around a bend in the trail otherwise it just plows straight ahead regardless of where the wheels are turned. Also its hard on shafts and u-joints.

If you are on a budget and REALLY want something in the front try a limited slip.

[The Machinist]

I put a lock-rite in the front and ended up doing a warn hub conversion cause I couldn't steer.  It's a pain in the winter cause as soon as you lock the hubs the jeep doesn't like to turn any more, it just goes straight.  So now i keep the hubs unlocked on icy highways so I can control where I'm going.  I'll lock the hubs if I'm going to keep it under 60, but no faster.

[tubby]

Rear application. Depends. Short wheelbase and a manual trans. is a little squirrelly.  Long wheelbase and an automatic is pretty good/not really noticeable.
Front application? It makes steering quite heavy if you are locked.  I would avoid using one up front if you don't have hubs (my arms got a good workout )

You should be fine if you are putting this in a low horsepower/rear application. It takes some getting used to the locking/unlocking and "popping" but manageable. My friend grenaded one in his high horsepower ,full size, big tired rig. Not strong enough for that application. Do your homework on this one. You may learn to dislike driving your vehicle afterward.  I would go with an Aussie Locker if I was in the "lunchbox" market though. They have awesome customer support !

[snodawg]

Great information guys! I'm still putting my Jeep back together and building it up. All this info helps in the decision making process.

[FiEND]

I put a lock-rite in the front and ended up doing a warn hub conversion cause I couldn't steer.  It's a pain in the winter cause as soon as you lock the hubs the jeep doesn't like to turn any more, it just goes straight.  So now i keep the hubs unlocked on icy highways so I can control where I'm going.  I'll lock the hubs if I'm going to keep it under 60, but no faster.

do you ever just lock one hub in the winter?

[FiEND]

would be the same as having an open diff when in 4 wheel drive ... on snow/ice streets ??

[The Machinist]

do you ever just lock one hub in the winter?

Yeah, when you accelerate it pulls hard on which ever side is locked and will try to turn.

[cLAY]

I tried that too many years ago. I even had it rigged up so that I could use my vacu-disconnect manually to unlock one side of the diff. Every trip out I made with that setup I grenaded the axle still locked in, and as said it pulled hard one way on acceleration in one direction and then equally hard in the opposite direction on deceleration.