Calgary Jeep Association

Author Topic: JK shock valving  (Read 1688 times)

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Offline bae146

  • UberWheeler
  • Posts: 403
Re: JK shock valving
« Reply #15 on: November 26, 2009, 09:54:37 PM »
There's actually a low-dollar solution to that too. Once you've gotten in the ballpark with the chalk test, try the "paint test".

Apply a good, thick coat of a light coloured paint the same way you would with chalk. Then drive on it for long enough that it starts to wear off. This will give you a good indicator of highway performance if you're about to start a road trip when you do it. If you do it over a period of days of "normal" driving for you, it will be based on the cross-section of your normal driving patterns.  ;)

Nice idea, going to have to try that one  on my own truck

Offline sn4cktime

  • UberWheeler
  • Posts: 321
Re: JK shock valving
« Reply #16 on: November 27, 2009, 04:07:23 AM »
Here's some JK "ride" tips.

1) Rubi's come with the "towing package" shock / coil kits by default.  (What I'm running and still too soft for my jeeps' weight).  Not really going to help by swapping if the ride is harsh.

2) Toyo's are UBER stiff tires, I run my BFG KM2s at 26-28 front/rear MAX.  If I've got loads of stuff in the back, like several hundreds lbs worth, I might air the rear up to 30 just to save some gas.  I'd try Bill's pressure range.  I've seen Toyos on trails at 8 PSI and they still seem like rock hard pucks while mine are all smooshy.

3) Having a slight forward rake or having slightly lower front end pressure helps to put more positive pressure on the front wheels and makes it less "flighty / darty" when driving.  Holds a straight line better.  I've got a 2 door, so not sure how that'll translate to the longer wheelbase.

That's all I've got from driving my JK so far.
----1988 AMC Eagle, mostly a flat XJ at this point----