block heater

[Zombie]

well I found out the block heater does not work.
I tested the cord and it appears to be ok, no cracks or pinched parts, conducts electricity fine.

so I figured it is likely going to be a bad block heater.

now what would be the best thing to do.

replace the block heater, or get one of the lower rad hose in line coolent heaters(the one without the pump)

I just don't know what the best way to do this would be.

I don't mind replacing the block heater if it will work better to keep the engine warmer and easier to start, but if the in line one is better, than I would go that way.
any thoughts?

thanks
Steve

[RedDog]

Good question as I'm anxious for opinions as well. My block heater works but I'm a little dismayed at what temperatures I need to plug in. The last little snap ten days ago my TJ wouldn't start one morning and I had to call roadside assistance. I've owned cars that were never plugged in. Granted it's been wickedly cold the past couple days but I nearly didn't start out for a Christmas function Saturday night parked four hours. Lots of clicking, light flashing and resetting of the odometer before she fired. I'm wondering about the battery although shortage of juice doesn't seem to be the issue.

[apeman]

You are better off replacing the block heater. The block heater will warm not only the coolant in the engine passages, but also warm the block of the engine using convection(by warming the coolant in the engine)...ergo: Block heater!
The inline coolant heaters, usually mounted in the lower rad hose simply warms the coolant in that hose. Since the thermostat will most likely be closed until the remaining coolant warms up enough to open it, the inline system just isnt worth it.
Unless you want to get a big rig system that warms and circulates the coolant..maybe ask Santa.

[FiEND]

the inline should work just as well.  you put it on the lower rad hose, not the upper, so the thermostat wont affect it much.  also, most thermostats have a small bypass hole on the thermostat itself or close by.  I have had a few inline heaters and they worked fine.

that said it's just as easy and usually cheaper to replace the block heater.  a little messy but if you plan it well you can remove the old one and insert the new one in a quick motion and only lose a litre or so of coolant.

my first car w/ 383 magnum had two block heaters, now that was nice.

batteries are another problem.  cant remember completely but i think at -25c your battery is @ 1/2 power.  if your battery is in poor shape to begin with, then you may have troubles when it gets this cold.

[dunl]

Inlines are to be mounted as low as possible as stated above.  Kijiji ones hat have never been installed go for $50 sometimes.....1500w circulating ones.

[dunl]

Another good point that I learned on here a few weeks ago (not sure who said it, but thank you very much) is that you should be unplugging ALL 12v devices - EVEN IF THEY ARE NOT ON.

Case in point, our Dodge 3500 CTD.  It is supposed to have two 1000CCA batteries, and I didn't realize that until I checked to see what the replacements were.  The PO had two 750CCA batteries in it. The thing would also never start at below -15....plugged in.  Well, it warms up, you never get around to replacing them, we hardly use it right now....and then I read about the unplugging 12v accessories post.

Out comes the satellite radio, out comes the GPS, and out comes the remote fans installed in the back for the dogs...none of which have been turned on in the past three months, as it's been parked.

I boosted the dead truck (no surprise there) three weeks ago, and it's been fine since.  Starts at -33 no problem too.

[w squared]

I've added an extra 30A fuse on the my "main" auxiliary line running from the battery into the cabin for just that reason. I've got:

-My Ipod controller
-My CB
-My 2meter/70cm rig

All are hard-wired and only the Ipod controller has an external switch for on/off...and even that simply controls the "on/off" input, not the actual power supply.

Each of the units has it's own in-line fuse (two in the case of the HAM), but I still added that extra fuse. It gives me an extra layer of protection (in case of a short to ground between the battery and one of the other fuses), it lets me disconnect my extra "ignition-off" loads, and it also lets me work safely on the my wiring inside the Jeep my simply pulling a fuse that is easy to get at.

[jkrubi]

Back to  the original question, if you haven't fixed it yet you could try and find a magnetic block heater.  They are  not the greatest but work very well for keeping the oil from becoming thick witch makes it harder to turnover.  My old diesel car needed it other wise it had a hard time starting when super cold even with it plugged in.  The other one that worked really good for me if you are thinking that the battery is getting old and did'nt want to un plug things is to buy a small trickle charger/battery maintainer that would fit under your hood (wired right to your battery) somewhere and when you plug in the car it gets plugged in as well.  I had a extension cord sticking out with every thing else plugged in to it.  worked great, it always started.  I got my charger from PA when they went on sale, it looks like a big transformer plug, so it was easy to tie it somewhere, plus if you forget to turn off your lights or something in the summer just plug your jeep in for about an hour no more looking for a boost or your battery charger.  My jk is going to be getting the old charger if/when we get more crappy weather.

[Zombie]

Or a battery blanket..

I have one, only reason the engine started one of the days, just want to make it a little easier on the engine too.

[Bnine]

Peel and stick oil pan heater is the easiest. About 60$ at Greggs. Circulating heaters work well but are very expensive, and can be risky for fire.