lift kit sugestions

[4wheeler1]

Hey All , Just wondering if anyone has a recomendation for a good lasting lift kit for a 2000 jeep tj. sport 6 cylinder. 33 inch rubber dana 44 front, rear... I want to put a 5.5 inch lift in not sure if i want a short arm or long arm. so both recomendations would be helpfull. I have looked so far at FabTech ,sky Jacker. I really like the Rubicon Express. Any one have a recomendations as to what is good and what is not so good would be helpfull.

Thanks ..

[AstraX]

RE is out of business for now so I don't know if I would want to go that route.  However, if there is something you like about them, maybe try and find another company that has something similar.

Otherwise I would start using the search function and read the oodles of posts on here and other forums about lift kits.  I can't give you any recommendations, because quite frankly I have no idea about them yet.

[vantagetes]

What kind of wheeling do you want to do, is this a trail only rig or a daily driver and how much money would you like to spend?

[Immortal]

Long arm it now.... you will just end up long arming it in the future, anyways. Why do things twice?

Quiet time in the garage with my 2 best friends.... My jeep and my beer!

Hiding from the wife, Justin? LOL!!!

[AV.NINE]

Long arm it now.... you will just end up long arming it in the future, anyways. Why do things twice?

Quiet time in the garage with my 2 best friends.... My jeep and my beer!

[JackstandJohnny]

much better doin lift kit once, then drinkin beer second time around shootin the breeze!

[jpthing]

I bouught a fabtech "ultimate" liftkit once...and then removed the parts, one by one as they failed....I think the only parts of the kit that never got pulled were the springs and the brake line relocation brackets...

[Bnine]

Rubicons do not like 5 inch lifts because of the really short driveline they have due to the roctrac t-case.

For a 33" tire no more then 2 inch of suspension, and 1 inch of body is required. For 35's, 3" of suspension, and 1 inch of body lift is sufficient.

I do not recommend purchasing off the shelf longarms. Specially RE.

The only shelf longarm I would remotely come close to endorsing would be clayton mfg, and even then there are things I dont like.

With a reasonable amount of lift, quality components, and similar dollars to a bolt in longarm, you can have a short armed TJ that will signifiacntly out perform a bolt on long armed TJ both on road and off.

In no particular order I would not recommend Rough country, RCD, Skyjacker, Fabtec, Rubicon express, procomp, tnt, or superlift.

In short, the only store bought suspensions I would recommend or be willing to install for people are Genrite, Poly performance, Currie, and Clayton.

If you can be well informed before building, you'll be considerably more satisfied with where your money goes.

[cuzican]

Why lift when you can run 33's / 35's with MetalCloak fenders.

http://www.metalcloak.com/

Super looking product - hoping to install in a week or two when the jeep comes back from its transplant operation.

I got mine direct out of US with free shipping to Sweetgrass - much less than a lift.  Add about $400 to powder coat or paint them yourself for much less.

Still need to consider replacing the stock wimpy arms, but lots of opportunity to buy cheap after market short arms when other people decide they need to upgrade to long arms

[FirstTimer]

If you go with the Metal Cloak, and your Jeeps a DD you'll need to get some form of after market side marker and signal lights as well as  the fender flares to avoid tickets. Plus, you'd probably want/need the rear flares to increase the clearance in the rear and keep everything looking good. Right there you're already looking approx. 1400$, plus the $400 to paint, and don't forget to include, install (time or money) and shipping.  That's around $2000 already and you haven't even spent a penny on upgrading your suspension or steering which you'll need to do running bigger tires. Therefore, I would disagree that this is less than a lift, a long arm lift for sure, but a short harm lift like an OME with a 1inch BL which will give you adequate clearance for 33's, no chance its cheaper.  Don't get me wrong I think the metal cloak is bad a$$ and great if you want to get more clearance out of an already off-road capable vehicle, but I would put my money into a suspension lift first.

[cuzican]

If you go with the Metal Cloak, and your Jeeps a DD you'll need to get some form of after market side marker and signal lights as well as  the fender flares to avoid tickets. Plus, you'd probably want/need the rear flares to increase the clearance in the rear and keep everything looking good. Right there you're already looking approx. 1400$, plus the $400 to paint, and don't forget to include, install (time or money) and shipping.  That's around $2000 already and you haven't even spent a penny on upgrading your suspension or steering which you'll need to do running bigger tires. Therefore, I would disagree that this is less than a lift, a long arm lift for sure, but a short harm lift like an OME with a 1inch BL which will give you adequate clearance for 33's, no chance its cheaper.  Don't get me wrong I think the metal cloak is bad a$$ and great if you want to get more clearance out of an already off-road capable vehicle, but I would put my money into a suspension lift first.

Don't want to start a debate but here's the way I thought it out

Marker lights on inner fender $20 from PA. They work in this location whether the flares are on or off.
My kit came with 6" flares front and rear.
Any lift with larger tires will require coverage - flares - don't forget to add to the cost of a lift kit.
Fabtech 4" short arm kit is US$1500
Most steering upgrades are additional to the lift kit unless a drop pitman arm is considered a steering upgrade.
Both a lift kit and Metalcloak take time to install.
Lift kit may also require a realignment - more$$$
Lift kit over 3"  may require a SYE - more $$$
SYE may require a new driveshaft - more$$$

I'm into mine front/rear with 6" flares for less than $1400 including shipping. I'll have two perfect 2006 fenders to sell off when I'm finished which should net me back $300 to $600 (if I'm lucky)

If someone just wants to get large tires on and wheel lightly the stock arms will survive for a while - the failure point for me is always the upper front arms. Note that a lot of the low cost kits continue to run the stock upper arms.

I've run short arm and long arm, low lift and stupid tall lifts on TJs. I've teetered on my end and side. Low centre of gravity is the way to go.