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Author Topic: Full Float 9"  (Read 1839 times)

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Offline LukeDuke

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Full Float 9"
« on: August 02, 2012, 04:56:53 PM »
So I want to try and lighten up the  rear end in the jeep and possible get rid of the 14 bolt to gain much needed ground clearance, but I want to keep the eight bolt pattern. Has anyone built a full float 9” or know of anyone running one. 

I seen the article on BC4X4   http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2002/ff9/   but I want some more input.

 I’m running the 4.0L and currently run 38’s with no plans to really go any bigger.
1967 C101 - in 1,000,000 pieces
1973 C104 - in 2,000,000 pieces

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Offline FiEND

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Re: Full Float 9"
« Reply #1 on: August 02, 2012, 05:45:22 PM »
I am running a full float 9" rear.  built here

Billy has built a few also. I don't know who is running them anymore though.

that article looks pretty sound.  price is about right comparing it to what it cost me to build my front diff.

my rear is built with spidertrax housing and truhi9 center.

what did you need to know?
1Wide2High
ILV2FRT
'97 TJ [sold]
'17 JK Rubicon

Offline LukeDuke

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Re: Full Float 9"
« Reply #2 on: August 02, 2012, 07:53:12 PM »
How do they hold up to the type of wheelin we do in alberta? Will they take 38s and a spool or locker? I just dont want to ditch my 14 bolt and be breakin stuff every other weekend
1967 C101 - in 1,000,000 pieces
1973 C104 - in 2,000,000 pieces

RDJP President
http://www.reddeerjeep.com/

Offline FiEND

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Re: Full Float 9"
« Reply #3 on: August 02, 2012, 09:07:49 PM »
i've never seen anywhere here that would threaten my 9 inch / arb / 35" toyos and spiderlock beadlocks.  I think the two tires weigh about as much as the whole diff.

pretty sure mine is tougher than a 14 bolt or dana 60 and weight is so much lower but not sure about the 9 inch they are building there... I think the stock center section might be weaker than 14 bolt... gotta ask Billy.

i like that that guide has rebuildable hubs cause the wet and mud here can be a killer otherwise.

also theres alot to be said for junkyard parts vs my rear diff... but I just complain alot even when some part wears out after 3 years of daily driving.

that said.. mine if most likely going up for sale in the near future.  I only wheel a few times a year now or less it seems so I am probably going to be parting out my jeep before winter.
« Last Edit: August 02, 2012, 09:11:53 PM by FiEND »
1Wide2High
ILV2FRT
'97 TJ [sold]
'17 JK Rubicon

Offline LukeDuke

  • Budget Lift
  • Posts: 159
Re: Full Float 9"
« Reply #4 on: August 03, 2012, 10:03:28 AM »
Sweet axle. Love that housing.

I gonna guess that its TJ width and not full size.

Thanks for the input.  think this is the way im going to go. Maybe not Spidertrax but a full float 9" none the less.


« Last Edit: August 07, 2012, 07:36:06 AM by LukeDuke »
1967 C101 - in 1,000,000 pieces
1973 C104 - in 2,000,000 pieces

RDJP President
http://www.reddeerjeep.com/

Offline FiEND

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Re: Full Float 9"
« Reply #5 on: August 03, 2012, 11:32:17 AM »
yea on a TJ.  can't remember how wide I made it but it's fairly wide.  I would guess about 5 inches wider than a stock TJ axle total...  I had to add 1.5 inch spacers to the front to match the rear and that's after converting the knuckles to '79 ford d44 knuckles and hubs.

so the long of it is, i'm not sure at all lol.  i'll say 63" though.  I think full width is still a lot wider.
1Wide2High
ILV2FRT
'97 TJ [sold]
'17 JK Rubicon

Offline Bnine

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Re: Full Float 9"
« Reply #6 on: August 07, 2012, 09:02:21 AM »
Just depends Al. Full widths run from as low as 63 to as high as 69 or 70. Yours would be a narrow full width, but close none the less.

On a budget you would want to look at a set of after market d60 housing ends and spindles, and then use all junk yeard 60 hubs and brakes.

But honestly, if you are looking for equal strength to the 14b, and want to shave as much weight as possible, a 40 spline semi float 9" will do everything you are looking for. That would leave you dollars left over to by a good center from tru hi. Strength wise, anything less then 5-600hp and 44-52" tires does not warrent going full float.

Select the housing of your choice, get a currie axle end and 40 spline shaft kit, get some junkyard 8.8 disks, then do the tru-hi center. Done deal. Going with a spool you will be under 3k start to finish. Detroit you are looking at maybe 3500.

Total weight on one of those with brakes is MAYBE 225lbs. Over 2 inches of ground clearence versus a stock 14b, and an inch over a shaved one.

My hi nine with a detroit has seen a few comps, and a lot abuse. With a 300hp stroker on 38 toyo's and only running 35 spline shafts my diff has been very reliable.

Tim (wicked yj) has been running a tru hi nine behind is high hp v8 for about 6 years now. Anyone that has known Tim over the years knows how hard he runs his stuff. He's using the Currie 35 spline set up.

There are a million ways to build a 9". But the center section is what will really determine how strong and reliable it will be.
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Offline LukeDuke

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Re: Full Float 9"
« Reply #7 on: August 07, 2012, 11:38:31 AM »
But honestly, if you are looking for equal strength to the 14b, and want to shave as much weight as possible, a 40 spline semi float 9" will do everything you are looking for. That would leave you dollars left over to by a good center from tru hi. Strength wise, anything less then 5-600hp and 44-52" tires does not warrent going full float.


This is what I originally wanted to do but I can’t find anyone who makes a 9” shaft with an 8 bolt pattern,  and I really don’t want to  buy new rims and bead locks.
1967 C101 - in 1,000,000 pieces
1973 C104 - in 2,000,000 pieces

RDJP President
http://www.reddeerjeep.com/

Offline Bnine

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My Mechanic Calgary
Mobile Auto Care
403-483-1083
[email protected]