This is a basic rear 4 link you can do using a combonation of aftermarket parts and some stuff built at home.
This jeep already had a 4 link, but this mod was done to upgrade some parts, and address some maintenance issues.
Im finished the project now, and just need to snap a few more pictures. I'll get those in here soon, to show the finished product including the exhaust.
For this one, we use a Rock Krawler weld in truss, rock krawler bushing joints, and evolution heim joints.
Here's the how to for the most part.
This is the RK truss on the axle. It centers perfectly between the swaybar brackets.
To fit the truss you need to cut off the rear uppers bracketry, and the rear track bar bracket. Then clean up around the area.
Fit it and weld it up. A little forward tilt to improve clearence of the truss and gas tand skid is a good idea on rubi's. Right around 90 degrees from your spring perches is a good starting point. DO NOT set the truss like that if using a complete RK set up and stock frame bracketry.
Alos forgot to add. Support the axle under the pumpkin when you weld the truss in, and take a lot of care let welds cool between different stitches to avoid warping the tubes, and allow the tubes to cool on their own. Take you time, this is riskyest part of this mod, you can wreck you axle if you get over zealous with the welder.
Cut off and clean up all your stock upper control arm bracketry from the inside of the frame.
Find some material to make new brackets. For this, I used 1/4", 2 x 6 rectangle tubing. The RK bushing joints fit into that tube perfectly. If you are using different joints, use the tubing that works.
Bracket drilled for adjustability.
This shows a 1/2" wide strip of 1/4" plate welded down the back of the bracket on a 45. This spaces the bracket from the frame, and allow you access to the nut when tightening the joint down.
The RK joints, cleaned up with new Moog bushings installed.
Just a shot of the joints in their soon to be new homes
Re mount the axle back into the rig, with the springs in. Get the axle resting on stands at its ride height. Connect the driveshaft. Roll the pinion to the exact angle you want with a floow jack.
Center the axle side to side. Install your joints into the truss, place your brackets where you want them, and take a length measurement for the arms.
Centering the axle using a straight edge against the axle tube and a tape measure from straight edge to frame.
Mack up the arm lengths and bracket positions.
Prep arms to weld tubserts in
Complete arm RK bushing on one end, evolution heim joint on the other.
With everything macked up, cycle your suspension and check clearences.
Here you can see the pinion angle at full droop. I purposely made the arms a couple inches longer then the original RK setup to increase pinion roll. Now, the pinion points directly at the t-case at ride height, and at full droop. This will help him avoid tearing out CV center sections once he tucks the t-case.
With everything macked up, and suspension cycling checking out, start welding and gusseting the brackety.
This is a pretty basic rear link set up.
The adjustable brackets will allow you to make slight adjustments in your antisquat until you find what suites you and your rig the most.
This jeep originally had a bolt in rock krawler set up. A few of the things this upgrade addressed......
Bolted truss bolted to diff cover making diff work a pain
Arms with RK set up were to short to get optimum pinion angle because of the rubicons short shaft.
Bolted truss wouldnt clear the full tank
The welded truss is a much stronger unit.
The original arm were bent to clear exhaust. If left un maintained they can flop down and cause joints to bind.
The new heims used are preloadable, and rebuidable. The originals werent, and are prone to wear quickly in muddy areas. The new heims are to large to fit in the bolt on set ups bracket.
This isnt a small mod. But if you take your time, do it right, and use good components, you'll be really happy with it.
I'll get some final pictures and post them up within the next day or too.
Topic: Short arm triangulated 4 link (Read 1918 times)