Comanche won't start...

[cLAY]

and are the wires on in the correct order?

[dunl]

Yes, but the distributor might be 180. Checking that today.

[dunl]

Okay, I THINK the distributor was off by 180, but now that I have the notch on the crank pulley lined up with the timing marks, the rotor is between #1 and #4 on the cap.

Figured I'd ask how to fix this before I mess something up or do it the hard way. I assume I can just loosen the bolts and rotate it?

Thanks so far.

[dunl]

Okay, they skipped a tooth.. so now that's fixed.

Spark plugs...oh yeah, they were changed....2 out of 6.

Like my wife says...."it probably died because of the loose ignition switch plug, but because they started messing with everything else...."

[dunl]

New plugs, properly gapped, no luck.  :hmm:

[cLAY]

Do you gwt any spark when test as I explained above?

[dunl]

I tried, but no spark.  However, I singed some arm hairs yesterday when I put some WD40 in the intake.....figured I had spark.

[dunl]

No, it's still the same, even with the distrib corrected.

And I don't think flamability was a problem. 

[dunl]

Okay...spark confirmed via new coil.

It seems that there is some kind of a blowback into the air filter from the engine...thoughts? Spark, but doesn't start with starting fluid...just a little more of a bang.

[dunl]

Okay...spark confirmed via new coil.

It seems that there is some kind of a blowback into the air filter from the engine...thoughts? Spark, but doesn't start with starting fluid...just a little more of a bang.

[dunl]

Okay, maybe I'm not getting fuel.  I pressed the schraeder valve, and a little blurp of fuel came out. That's it. With the key on, shouldn't that valve keep spraying fuel?  I never thought to check with the key before.

I checked under to look at draining, and noticed that one of the lines is loose...the feed line, near the tank. Soaks when I wiggle it....needs replaced, but would this mess with the pressure?  Wouldn't the pump keep feeding it until the system pressurizes, and if I kept the valve open, wouldn't that also make the pump keep running?

[dunl]

I thought they ran depending on the pressure in the rail....must be a sensor somewhere?

[dunl]

It's an 89. I have an 88 manual, looking now.

[dunl]

So just to recap:

1. purchased non-running. Was told that it stopped while being backed out of the garage one day.
2. changed the cps to find that it still wouldn't start. No gauges, nothing.
3. jumped the pump, sounded fine.
4. found the loose plug on the ignition switch.  Gauges now, fuel pump when the key turns, but no start.
5. Distributor seemed to be off 180, and skipped a tooth.
6. Changed the plugs, properly gapped. 2 out of 6 were new.
7. New coil, as the older one gave indeterminate readings. Why not, eh?
8. New fuel filter, new gas,  premium at that.

Now, trying to check TDC again, I had a HELLVA hard time turning the crank at some spots compared to yesterday. Others, quite easy. 

Thoughts?

[cLAY]

Now, trying to check TDC again, I had a HELLVA hard time turning the crank at some spots compared to yesterday. Others, quite easy. 

Thoughts?

That's normal, as the engine comes up on comprssion it gets harder.

Blowing back into the air filter sounds like a timing issue. Are the plugs all routed correctly? Is the dist in correct? I thought on that year you set the engine to TDC on cylinder #1 and then drop the dist in and lock it down. I thought it would only go in one way? Or is it still gear driven?

Did you check the porcelain block by the battery?