anyone know what the stock xj rear drive shaft length is????

[Zombie]

it is a 97 xj, auto with the transfer case with the 2h. 4h. n, 4l(too tired and not awak to think which one that is)

I was wondering what the stock drive shaft length was, I have been thinking some of the issues with the zombie may be related if the shaft has been stretched a inch or two.   

[Zombie]

anyone???

[Immortal]

I'll check mine tomorrow. Mine has the C8.25.

[vantagetes]

Center of u-joint to center of u-joint is 28 7/8" for a NP231 and D35.

[Zombie]

mines the 8.25 too so that would be great and the np231(boy was I tired when I put the first post up)

would the 8.25 and the d35 be the same length?

[apeman]

The 8.25 is longer..slightly..but that shouldnt have a major effect since your np231 should have a slip yoke that allows the driveshaft to travel , or slip. You should have a couple inches slip in the rear..but i think you are still maxed out somehow?

[Immortal]

Hmmmmm... mine is the C8.25, NP231, with slip yoke, and it is only 27.25" u-joint center to u-joint center.

[apeman]

there ya go..the 8.25 is an inch longer...and the d/s is an inch shorter (+ or - for trevors tape reading ability..lol)...you should still have a fair bit of slip in the yoke.

[vantagetes]

8.25 and np231 is 27 7/8" from center of u-joint to center of u-joint.

[Zombie]

ya I am starting to think that some of the issues I am having right now, are from a slightly longer drive shaft than what should be in it, or that is what I am thinking, I will measure it and see what the result is, it just feels like there is no room for the drive shaft to move into the transfer case at all, I do have a t-case drop, which could have something to do with it, so I will likely take that out and see if I have any better luck, it should free up about an inch, and still be ok with angles and what not. it does sit right where I wanted it to with the 3.5 inch RE  springs. maybe an inch higher at most, but it should settle in some. no vibes at 120, but some while accelerating, so I think I need to point the pinion down a hair.

that and move the exhaust over a little as the new springs hit the pipe alot.

[vantagetes]

I chopped mine off pre axle and just put a downturn on the muffler. Not sure what you've got going on under there but that may save alot of time/effort?

[Zombie]

I think I just need to bend one of the hangers a little to move it closer to the hitch and away from the spring.

[vantagetes]

As the message box states, claw hammer fixes all...

[Zombie]

I allready tried to clamp it a little to give some more space and it did a little, the hammer would not hit it in the right spot.

[Zombie]

well.....
i played with the jeep today, and measured some angles and what not, and found that I have to shim the pinion down a few degrees to have the angle off the t-case and pinion be closer to what it should be.

and the measurement of the drive shaft from middle of the ujoint to middle of the ujoint was 29 1/8 inches, so my thinking is that the shaft has been replaced at some time and is too long. with the old saggy stock springs with an aal and blocks it must have worked ok for a while, but with the newer springs it sits higher and keeps the axel a little closer to the tcase(from not being almost completely flat) thus causing an issue. so now I am wondering what I should do. if I have to replace the drive shaft, I might as well just get a double cardian shaft and angle the pinion up to the proper position when I do that.
I figure that it will cost around 550 if I order stuff from northridge, maybe less if I try the front drive shaft method.

right now the pinion is pointing too far up for the drive shaft now by about 4 degrees or so, if I do the new dc shaft i will have to point it up about 4-5 degrees or so.

any suggestions?

thanks
steve

on a side note, I found out the guy who owned the jeep before me sucks at wiring anything, everthing added was just twisted together, so now I am going over everything and replacing the wires to get rid of multiple splices in them, and adding fuses where needed.