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Author Topic: XJ rebuild - the right way  (Read 10749 times)

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Offline Immortal

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Re: XJ rebuild - the right way
« Reply #15 on: June 05, 2011, 12:24:08 PM »
Maybe I missed it.... what rear diff do you have now?
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Offline raf2379

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Re: XJ rebuild - the right way
« Reply #16 on: June 05, 2011, 04:24:52 PM »
Diffs - Can I run a 8.8 in the rear and keep the HP D30 in the front? Until I'm ready to upgrade the front diff when I switch to the 35's?


yes you can 

Dracitamo

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Re: XJ rebuild - the right way
« Reply #17 on: June 05, 2011, 07:35:03 PM »
Maybe I missed it.... what rear diff do you have now?

I have a D35 in the rear right now.  With limited slip.

Offline Immortal

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Re: XJ rebuild - the right way
« Reply #18 on: June 05, 2011, 10:29:20 PM »
I would grab a 8.25" out of a cherokee before a 8.8... less work (D35 and the 8.25" are both spring over). 97 and newers have the 29 spline instead of the 27.... food for thought.
I am running 35s on a D30, and C8.25", and I believe that there is a less sane person running 37s on his 8.25".....
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Offline Waytec

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Re: XJ rebuild - the right way
« Reply #19 on: June 06, 2011, 01:06:20 AM »
I agree with going with a 8.25. direct bolt in, all the gears are now available for it (4.88)(I have a set of 4.10s for sale) lots of locker options. a little different for gear set up, and are cheap and lots of XJs in the wreckers.
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Dracitamo

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Re: XJ rebuild - the right way
« Reply #20 on: June 06, 2011, 07:52:03 AM »
Thanks Immortal. I'll have to wait for this rain to stop before I head down to pick-n-pull. Could use some help if anyone is going down that way. It will be on a weekend.
Gears - I'm thinking I'll run the 410s. 4.88 might suck too much on the pavement. Moving from 3.05s to the 4.10 will be a huge improvement. Or would the 4.88s still be okay on the road?  Waytec, how much are you looking for your gears? They in good shape?
I'm gonna have to hold on the actual swap till i get the lockers. Might as well do it all at once. So not in a huge rush. Hopefully in a month?

Offline BlackYJ

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Re: XJ rebuild - the right way
« Reply #21 on: June 06, 2011, 08:26:29 AM »
Thanks Immortal. I'll have to wait for this rain to stop before I head down to pick-n-pull. Could use some help if anyone is going down that way. It will be on a weekend.
Gears - I'm thinking I'll run the 410s. 4.88 might suck too much on the pavement. Moving from 3.05s to the 4.10 will be a huge improvement. Or would the 4.88s still be okay on the road?  Waytec, how much are you looking for your gears? They in good shape?
I'm gonna have to hold on the actual swap till i get the lockers. Might as well do it all at once. So not in a huge rush. Hopefully in a month?

I run 4.10s with 33s on my YJ and it is decent on the highway and fine offroad.  If you really want 35s, I would look at going 4.56s and that will give you a nice balance between 33s and 35s.  The HP 30 can definitely we built to handle 35s and either a 8.8 or the C8.25 would be a good match.  The C8.25 in the past was limited to 4.56s in gears and had limited locker options but it seems like that is changing according to Waytec.  I run ARBs front and rear and I have never had a problem with mine and my front locker has been out several times having axle seals replaced. 

As mentioned above, I would not be in a rush to go big, as a locked front and rear rig on 33s with a capable driver can get through a lot of crap.  Also being that it is an XJ, I would look a some body armour as well like rocker guards and strong bumpers.  Don't cheap out on a lift either and get GOOD shocks as they will make a world of difference. 
'95 YJ with a few mods

Offline JackstandJohnny

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Re: XJ rebuild - the right way
« Reply #22 on: June 06, 2011, 09:14:06 AM »
if you go 4.10, it will take a week before you say 'man i wish i had gone 4.56.

go 4.56 now, it'll justify the jump to 35s that much sooner ;)
~ rescue green JKUR on 35s.  typical rubicon build

Offline Immortal

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Re: XJ rebuild - the right way
« Reply #23 on: June 06, 2011, 07:38:42 PM »
if you go 4.10, it will take a week before you say 'man i wish i had gone 4.56.

go 4.56 now, it'll justify the jump to 35s that much sooner ;)

So, with your logic.... why wouldn't he just go right up to 4.88s then?
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Offline Jrama

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Re: XJ rebuild - the right way
« Reply #24 on: June 06, 2011, 09:49:53 PM »
my 2 cents...

Something like a Detroit or Aussie  has one advantage. They always work, no buttons, no compressors just traction when you need it, always. Aussie in particular is a great bang for your buck as they are a really easy install... and as far as i can tell reliable. But spending more on a selectable is always going to be more livable and ultimately better in the long run.


People say great things about the OX lockers, They would be my second choice next to E lockers. ARB lockers are king, but the cost, and compressor system really deterred me

watch those Elockers, not all e locker designs are equal
« Last Edit: June 06, 2011, 09:54:51 PM by Jrama »

Offline AV.NINE

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Re: XJ rebuild - the right way
« Reply #25 on: June 06, 2011, 09:51:28 PM »
So, with your logic.... why wouldn't he just go right up to 4.88s then?

Because the D30 is limited to a 4.56 and no lower?  ???

Offline FiEND

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Re: XJ rebuild - the right way
« Reply #26 on: June 06, 2011, 09:52:41 PM »
Dana 30 is limited at 5:13 for a few years now
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Offline AV.NINE

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Re: XJ rebuild - the right way
« Reply #27 on: June 06, 2011, 09:55:11 PM »
Hp 30? What am I missing? How do they squeeze that in there??

Dracitamo

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Re: XJ rebuild - the right way
« Reply #28 on: June 06, 2011, 11:36:27 PM »
It's been interesting to watch you guys talk this one out.

The HP 30 is a reverse cut. Learned that tonight.  This guy here said his HP30 for his YJ was running 4.88's.
So is it really possible? Looks like it is. Won't be a problem to get it in the 8.25 though right?

Lockers - I'll have to do some more digging on the E-lockers to see what the reviews have to say. The only two I saw on Jeep forum were the Auburn Gear ECTED and the Eaton ELOCKER. Between the two, The Auburn sounds a little better minus the old ones that were junk, but the LS when the locker is not engaged sounds like a big hit. Decisions, decisions. Anyone running the OX, Auburns, Eatons that can tell me what they think?
I'm staying away from ARB's,  Detroits, and Aussies. ARB's a little too expensive for what you get and more maintenance. Detroits suck in the snow and ice I have read, and Aussies... everyone with an Aussie has had it fail one time or another. I'd rather spend a little more and not have to worry about it failing. Axles are much easier to replace then pulling the diff to replace a junked locker.

Offline cLAY

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Re: XJ rebuild - the right way
« Reply #29 on: June 07, 2011, 07:59:42 AM »
I have the eaton e locker and like it. For a front locker you don,t want a posi up there, you want it totally open.

Wheeled with a friends in moab that had an ox locker, wouldn,t stay engaged no matter how much we messed with the adjustment. I think the cable took a hit right where it goes thru the front cover and was binding up.

Seen a few detroits blow up but that was usually a heavy rt foot with a v8.
..

'93 ZJ, 5.2L, lifted/locked/36s..<gone>
'98 5.9er 4.10s,locked,LA,WJ knuckles