35" Tire Standard equipment

[Jrama]

After covering most of my bases there are still two issues (aside from getting a spare) that I have not addressed.I have a couple topics I hope I can get some insight to with this thread.

1. Anybody running just a beefed up tie rod and stock drag link? I need to do something about my steering and I am considering  getting a beefy tie rod or doing the full Currie set up. It's going on a jeep with 35" tires locked. I foresee the jeep taking a beating within reason, it is my dd. In other words, I intend to wheel it regularly and in challenging conditions when the situations arise, I am not heavy on the gas nor do I beat on it.

2. Dana 30 - Chromoly shafts? I know unlocked it is not a must to get upgraded shafts. Again, the front axle is locked, I think i got the 760 variety of U Joint in my stock shafts right now, which probably doesn't make much of a difference.

[Immortal]

#1.... DO IT!!! Currie. Enough said. Check out the pic. Stock TR on top (bent like a banana) and a sleeved one...


#2... Not a bad idea, or just ease up on the skinny pedal.

[THE GOLD DIIGGER]

Currie is the way to go for sure.I did it and i wheel pretty hard sometimes and had no problems at all.

[Rubi03 jef]

i got the currie and run 35's and i never even think about steering issues anymore.   

as for your dana 30 i wouldnt worry to much about it .. its a good diff . the weak point is the small carrier but since your locked it should be fine ..   just carry and extra stubby shaft and a ujoint  u wont have any issues .

[Jrama]

I was just thinking I could save some $$$ and just do the tie rod upgrade, theory being the stock drag link would be strong enough. The Currie system is extremely stout and if I go this route I know I won't have to worry about steering for a long time. But it also seems almost unnecessary and costly.... I have wheeled the stock stuff through some challenging conditions on 33" tires and have had no problems over the past 3 years. Of course now I am looking to push it just that much farther, with larger tires and all that entails.

Edit yeah I re-read what i wrote and realized that the Currie setup is really my answer. Do it once, do it right, and be done with it!

Good point on the  D30! I'll probably just run my D30 and carry some extra shafts, if it becomes an issue then I'll look into some new shafts.

[JackstandJohnny]

whats your rear axle? is it a 44? i'd be more worried bout that one if its a d35!

i carry shafts and balljoints for my front D30 just incase i break something again on the trail with 35s.  i've only broken one.  and it wasn't even locked.  it happens....  but for the most part no biggie

[Jrama]

Awesome, anybody have a spare set of shafts for a Dana 30 kicking around?

[FiEND]

pick n pull usually has 12 - 20

[Rubi03 jef]

whats your rear axle? is it a 44? i'd be more worried bout that one if its a d35!

i carry shafts and balljoints for my front D30 just incase i break something again on the trail with 35s.  i've only broken one.  and it wasn't even locked.  it happens....  but for the most part no biggie

ya what is there rear in your jeep   d35 or d44

[YoungFluff03TJ]

he has a d44 rear

[Jrama]

Wouldn't make much sense to be worrying about the strength of my D30  and steering if I had a D35 in the rear.

Right now its got
D44 4.88's , E locker
D30 4.88's , Aussie locker

[Bnine]

Ultimately, the build to work towards for strong, reliable, well performing 35" tire builds looks as follows

rear 44 chromo shafts
front hp 30, or rubi 44, chromo shafts, ctms
currie steering, with knuckle flip and raised swaybar links
currie specific hydro assist from psc/savvy
currie trackbar
walker, raceline, poison spyder, kmc, trail ready aluminum beadlocks 17's 5x 5.5
johnny joint suspension (2-3")
small body lift 1-1.5"
tuck belly and gas tank
swaybars front and rear
outboard rear shocks

If you keep it low, a good quality short arm will wheel and handle as well as a long arm. The swaybars will significantly increase offroad stability, as will outboarding the rear shocks. If you can do a dual rate swaybar in the front it will increase onroad and off road performance and handling.

Beadlocks will increase traction equal to or greater then the difference lockers made. Good quality aluminum ones will run true and reduce front vibes, maintenance, and bouts with death wobble.

17 by 5 x 5.5 will eliminate the need to ever by another rim, and increase ability to re sell because those rims are suitable for new jeeps, one ton axles, etc etc. 15's and 5 x 4.5 limit you to jeep axles, and force you to sell at a loss if you ever do a one ton axle.

The hp 30 is stronger then the lp 30, and a good axle for the 35" tire build. You can beat them pretty hard and they have a little more clearence then the rubi 44. Not to mention they are a dime a dozen at pick and pull.

I've done a lot of 35" specific builds. This is an extremely high performance and very reliable build, but it doesnt come cheap in any way shape or form.

Done in stages start with axle strength, then steering upgrades including the hydro assist. Then beadlocks, suspensions links, swaybars, and finally shocks.

If after all that you have money for tucks , fenders, panels, etc etc, you can play with that stuff.

[Jrama]

That is similar albeit much more in depth then the setup i was planning on running.

 I got 3" of suspension, 1.25 BL  -  Short arm 3" JJ suspension is going to be the plan eventually. So far, as near as I can tell my suspension does a decent job for the wheelin I do, although it hasn't had much time with the 35" tires yet so that could change.

Currie steering is in my future, I have already sunk money into my lp30 so I'm sticking with it.

I'll see the kind of wheelin I end up doing to justifying what I do next. I build the Jeep as I need it, Wheel it for a while then change what I can. I just finished the jump from stage 1 to the beginning of stage 2 (mostly). So far I haven't had enough time out on the trails to really know how things are working with my new gears, locker, tires etc.

[Bnine]

Everything on the hp30 is a straight swap from the lp30 exept gears. When the time comes, 300$ in gears and bearings is a small price for the considerable gain in strength and driveline clearence when running a hp versus lp30.

If you get to the point that even the hp30 explodes. Currie can do a 9" housing and center section that excepts all the d30 equipment.