Talk me into 35s

[Knox]

The more I look at 35s the more I get intrigued but I also realize what I'm missing before I should really do it. I may have to buy tires soon, since my tires appear to be dying (one refuses to balance, running 31s atm)

So Summary:
3.25 RC lift.
Will be adding 1.25 JKS BL (have yet to buy) and a BrownDog 1" MML (sitting in the garage)
Gears: 4.56, open D30 in the front, elocker d44 in the rear.

Things I'm considering as a requirement before I put the 35s on.
Steering linkage upgrade, possibly the Iron Rock Offroad one.  http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/TJ_XJ_ZJ%201_2%20OTK%20Steering%20System%20Install.pdf
New steering stabilizer (I need one anyways, still running the stock one from circa 2003), looking at the OME one I guess, is there really much of a difference?

Things I'd like to do anyways
SYE kit, new CV drive shaft, + adjustable arms
maybe a new gas tank skid to replace the dented one...

Regarding tires, I'm still favoring the Duratracs, but I am starting to consider the MTRs w/ Kevlar.

Any thoughts?

[TL-Iguana]

if your hanging more than 35 inches from the floor......

then compensate?

Hence why I only need to run 32's and Kevin is on 37's

[Jrama]

Jumping from a 31" tire to a 35" tire, you will notice a signifigant increase in maintenance. Not only because the tires are wider and stress components more, but primarily because you are now going to be trying much more "interesting" obstacles ( aka dumb crap), the new locker will only compound this problem  . Buy some body armor and get ready for some fun!

You have enough lift to run em (you have to do bump stops)
You have reasonable gearing
you have the right diffs


And of course....you've gone this far...sooooo do it! COME ON

[WhiteOut]

Currie instead of IRO steering though.

[Knox]

Currie instead of IRO steering though.

why? for the currie joints? or is there something else?

[Knox]

I think I should also seriously consider cromolly shafts for the front, I neglected to mention the rears are already upgraded.

I'm also running 10.5s right now, and they stick out of my flares just over an inch. regardless if I got to 33 or 35, I think I'd like to have a 12.5 wide tire, so I'll need to get new flares too...

Maybe I do go 33s for 2 years and spend that time upgrading everything else.

[Jrama]

My front shafts lasted about 5 months-ish with a locker in the front before they would just barf out U joints. I highly recommend just getting full circle clips instead of chromolys for an open front, save some serious $$$ and they will be almost alloy. Just google it, they are a great upgrade, greggs carries the circle clips, it requires some grinding, nothing tough though.

[FiEND]

12.5 on a 10.5 would be horrible unless they are beadlocks.  33x13.5 would be my choice since they are still challenging and a lot of fun and can still air down to 10 on aluminum rims.  wider tires are better than taller unless you're arse is a draggin' like in deep snow etc.  

with my 18 inch almost 10" wide rims I need to go to 37" tires for 13.5 wide but i will do it for width only, everything else is lose

[morerpmfred]

X2 currie steering.

[Knox]

My front shafts lasted about 5 months-ish with a locker in the front before they would just barf out U joints. I highly recommend just getting full circle clips instead of chromolys for an open front, save some serious $$$ and they will be almost alloy. Just google it, they are a great upgrade, greggs carries the circle clips, it requires some grinding, nothing tough though.

lol first google result for me
http://forum.calgaryjeep.com/index.php?action=printpage;topic=24275.0
I'm not sure what that is, I'll have to look at it, I did look at the "Almost Alloy Kits" that are weld on, anyone have experience with those?

12.5 on a 10.5 would be horrible unless they are beadlocks.  33x13.5 would be my choice since they are still challenging and a lot of fun and can still air down to 10 on aluminum rims.  wider tires are better than taller unless you're arse is a draggin' like in deep snow etc. 

with my 18 inch almost 10" wide rims I need to go to 37" tires for 13.5 wide but i will do it for width only, everything else is lose

and Al, my tires are 10.5, the wheels are 8. Sorry for the confusion

[Rubi03 jef]

currie steering forsure

and dont worry about your fender flairs  in no time youll see that there completely useless and mud is still going to cover the whole side of your truck no matter what

[FiEND]

ahh sorry... 8's OK for 12.5 wide.  i ran rubicons on 33x12.5 and 8lbs was easy as they are 16" so a little tougher sidewalls.  my tires ripped off my front fenders as are Bonnies (slowly but Shirley).

[Rubi03 jef]

i wouldnt worry to much about wheel width . i think everyone freaks out abit much about this subjet

im running 15.5" wide on a 9" rim and i dont have a single worry

[Knox]

i mean you see trucks going all the time sticking out past their fenders, has anyone on here had any issues with the city police?

[specialk]

Not with Calgary police.  If you venture towards Dead Rear, they are pretty picky.  Get stopped around PC, you are guaranteed a ticket. 

35's are going to put a lot of wear on parts.  Get ready for bearings every 6 to 8 months, driveshafts, etc...  there is a lot more maintenance. If I was only going to wheel occasionally (once or twice every 3 months) , I would go with the 33 Kelvars.  This is still a daily driver, so believe me, 35's on a TJ is getting old  for daily driving (or I'm getting old... or both).

If you are really going to start wheeling and what to try new things with your rig, go 35's.  The Jeep is going to be a trail rig that also takes you to work, but make sure your pockets are deep enough to handle it   

I will also be the first to admit that 35's look good on any rig, but it just ain't worth it to drive to mall or look on the Edmonton Trail.