Calgary Jeep Association
4x4 Related Groups => Tech Talk => Topic started by: Rubi03 jef on December 05, 2008, 11:23:05 AM
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jeep is in the steelership and both front wheel baring asemblies are done
they want 600 for each side has anyone had a problem with the wheel barings or had them changed for less .
are these wheel barings able to be pressed off and new ones pressed on..
please some help would be appriciated
thanks
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Bolt on bolt off sum BFH involved if they have not been done yet
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Most of us have learned to do the front unit bearings on our own jeeps. The part can be purchased for much less than you have been quoted and once you have been shown how to do them its fairly easy. The front comes as a bolt on unit. I think I paid about $150 per side for the parts the last time I did them. Some of the other guys do them more often so may have a better idea of the price. The larger the tires you are ruining the more often they need to be changed. I think I got about a year out of the last set running 33" tires. Post up asking for one of the local guys to give you a price on doing it for you and letting you watch. A few members on the site do good work at really reasonable prices. If you get one of them to do it and watch then you will be able to do them next time yourself. If they are old you may have to work to get the old unit off. Lots of anti seize on the bolts when the new ones go on and they will be easier next time. One large socket needs to be purchased that most don't have in their tool boxes. I can't remember the size (36MM?)
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It should be about 1-1.5 hours labour per side at a stealership but the bearings are about 150-250 each depending on where you buy them from. Really you have the tools and some mechanical knowledge you could probably change them yourself in about the same time. If you know what you are doing you can probably have them both done in an hour
The bearings are a sealed unit so they have to be purchased as a complete unit
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thanks .. everyone im going to start calling places to get them and hopefully i can get them in this weekend
im pretty good with wrnechs and my brother is a 3rd year mechanic .. your all probably asking why did i bring it to a stealership but its under warrenty so i brought it in for just a service and then i get the call saying its unsafe to drive and all this BS
anyone know where they stock rubi bearings
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i did em on myZJ before i sold it. picked up the unit bearings for 102$ a piece. thats for a D30 axle though. don't know how much your rubi ones run.
i had paid to get them done once, and it ran me 250 a side at lemon aides place (chanda precision) at the time i was ok with it cause i didn't know what a unit bearing was. the second set i did my self. it is actually quite simple and with the right tools its not a prob. you need a 36mm socket, can be bought at Canadian tire, 20$ i think. the procedure is simple, i'd get a haynes manual or something and its pretty basic. here goes:
loosen wheel lugs.
loosen axle end nut (the one sticking out with a cotter pin) i needed air tools for it; i broke a wratchet with a my highlift breakter bar. airtools make it very easy.
pull wheel and nut off.
remove disc caliper and brake disc; procedure in haynes if u haven't done it before.
now with the brakes off you should be down to just the unit bearing, which is held on by 3 13mm 12point bolts accessable in the rear of the knuckle (bearings bolted to knuckle)
take 3 bolts out, remove unit bearing, laugh at how grenaded it probably is (mine was bad)
put new bearing in, i would grease the splines as well
put front end back together.
seriously, i'm the farthest thing from a mechanic, and it took me half hour. i also read the haynes manual 20 times and looked it up online a bunch.
this was for my D30 axle though. i've no clue how much different it is for a D44. cant imagine its much different
good luck
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and the bearing should just slide out no puller needed or some king of press
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nope. the bearing is part of the wheel hub. so the wheel bolts to the hole unit, and the unit bolts to the knuckle, and the axle shaft spins the whole wheel bearing unit (hence unit bearing). thats why they are so expensive
with a unit bearing you can't actually access the bearing itself...... its competely incased, hence they are a bitch and have to be replaced a bunch.... and why most of us learn to change em
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No press needed. I just pulled one off a D30 last night actually.
There is 3 bolts holding the WB onto the knuckle. Once you remove the brakes soak everything with wd40, back the 3 bolts out a half inch and put an old socket you dont care about breaking onto the socket.
Then you can use a BFH and give some good wacks to each bolt.
You will see the WB starting to work its way out of the knuckle, it may come easily, it may take quite a few good solid wacks.
Axle nut is a 36mm as stated already, the 3 bolts holding it to the knuckle are a 13mm 12point on a dana 30.
I replace mine with junkyard specials...$8/per....but I dont think there's many Rubi's in the yard yet ::)
GL!
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Easier method is to wedge a deep socket with a small ext onto the rear bolt, with it threaded halfway out. Turn the wheel the socket bottoms out on the inner C of the axle. Turn some more and the bearing will pop right out.
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thanks boys .. got the bearings at napa . 377 for both so its 3 times cheaper then stealership ..
going to try getting them done tonight
thanks for the help
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hehehehe, yep, we make some good cash on wheel bearings:) and stealership is untrue. we dont steal anything. we do top quality work for top price... ok, it does get expensive! but we dont make up the labor times. so dont blame the mechanic please.
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1200 for wheel bearings. I dont care if its "quality" thats MORE than BS and they know it. And yea price is not the mechanics fault.
all you need is a floor jack, some base sockets, 13-19mm, (12 point also), and lock tight if you want. get em cheap at napa and do em on the weekend in your garage.
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I'll have to get mine looked at since I'm getting a squeaking whine from the front end, if the shop looks at it and finds it bad, can the keep the jeep saying its unsafe to drive?
dubbleJ's: wanna teach me if I have to get it done? I have beer.
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They can refuse to release it if its REALLY unsafe to drive. You would then have to have it towed out, or repaired.
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i took it home and did it in my drive way i took my time and had a few beers but it was done in under 1,5 hours .. so i dont know how they can say theyll charge 3 hours for both if i did both in half that on a floor
but i guess its like when they say it takes 2 hours to install a starter ..
but its done ..
thanks everyone made my life cheaper and easyier
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kind of funny when you see how much easier it is when a dealership quotes you 1200 for something you can do in your driveway.
i agree that dealerships will do top quality work most of the time, but for the price, i'd rather do it myself and do it wrong, or break something a few times before bringing it in........ cause by then i'll have learned. specially things like bearings and ball joints!
glad u got it done
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I still dont see how this thought of Quality Work comes into play with wheel bearings... thats like saying he took the extra 2 seconds to actually tighten the 3 bolts instead of leaving them hand tight.
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He actually tightened them to the specified torque with a torque wrench instead of hammering it down with an impact like the rest of us.
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I still dont see how this thought of Quality Work comes into play with wheel bearings... thats like saying he took the extra 2 seconds to actually tighten the 3 bolts instead of leaving them hand tight.
lol
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i tightened them very well .. as i also antiseezed everything so in a year i can rip it apart and have no issues .. as for quality .. im guess they would spend 2 hours cleaning the hub and remove the dirt ..
a wire brush did that in 10 seconds and some break clean helped ..
from now on the only thing my jeep is going in for will be powertrain and thats only when its busted ..
it rolls nice now
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.. as for quality .. im guess they would spend 2 hours cleaning the hub and remove the dirt ..
lol! I doubt that. ;D
you dont want anti-sieze on the bolts though... locktight if anything.
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lol! I doubt that. ;D
you dont want anti-sieze on the bolts though... locktight if anything.
You definitely want to be antiseizing the caliper bolts and the axle hub nut since that is a bastard to get off on the trail. The mating surfaces are also a good idea
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I'll have to get mine looked at since I'm getting a squeaking whine from the front end, if the shop looks at it and finds it bad, can the keep the jeep saying its unsafe to drive?
dubbleJ's: wanna teach me if I have to get it done? I have beer.
Jack your jeep up and try to move the tire with your hands at 9 and 3 etc. If there is play there your WB is shot...easier than taking it to a shop! :)
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Even easier is to have someone wiggle the steering wheel from 11-1 oclock. Watch for movement between the dust sheild and rotor.
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Even easier is to have someone wiggle the steering wheel from 11-1 oclock. Watch for movement between the dust sheild and rotor.
Always got an easier method eh?! :P
Great thing about the first method is you can do it aaalllll by yourself. ;)
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now now boys be nice .. ;)
i found wiggleing the tire from top to bottom gave me a better idea how bad they were .. side to side lets the steering components move a bit..
but thats just me
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i found wiggling the tire from top to bottom gave me a better idea how bad they were .. side to side lets the steering components move a bit..
up and down is testing for a wheel bearing, side to side is to test for tie rod play and other steering linkage, and on an angle (one hand7 o'clock & other 1 o'clock or reverse @ 11am & 5pm) is to test for ball joints. You really should have the front of the vehicle off the ground.
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Always got an easier method eh?! :P
Great thing about the first method is you can do it aaalllll by yourself. ;)
Yeah, the wheel wigle is quicker an easier.
90% of my checks are someone driving into my driveway asking why they have death wobble. So I always have a second person :):)
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You really should have the front of the vehicle off the ground.
Only if you dont know what to look for on a wiggle test.
Balljoints are best diagnosed with a prybar under the tire is the wiggle test indicates further inspection is required.
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Only if you dont know what to look for on a wiggle test.
Balljoints are best diagnosed with a prybar under the tire is the wiggle test indicates further inspection is required.
It can get a lot deeper than that, I was giving a base diagnostic test thats easy for anyone.
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so here's my stupid question. you had it at the stealership.................for service..............UNDER WARRANTY............and you were expected to pay for wheel brgs, and then did them yourself anyway???? maybe it's just the vodka and having to work on a hyundai all day making my brain a little fuzzy but um............why wouldn't they warranty these?? :o
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bearings are not considered drive train parts .
it stops at the axel shafts
gay is what i call it .
but i got a new drive shaft today and that was covered :)
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ah, gotcha........didn't know it was only powertrain warranty :P
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still gay buti guess if they were to fix everything free of charge then people would have to pay like 200k for a jeep
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Only if you dont know what to look for on a wiggle test.
Balljoints are best diagnosed with a prybar under the tire is the wiggle test indicates further inspection is required.
not necessarily true. Some ball joints need to be unloaded before they can be properly tested.
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::)