wheel barings badly

[Rubi03 jef]

jeep is in the steelership and both front wheel baring asemblies are done

they want 600 for each side has anyone had a problem with the wheel barings or had them changed for less .

are these wheel barings able to be pressed off and new ones pressed on..

please some help would be appriciated


thanks

[XJHERO]

Bolt on bolt off sum BFH involved if they have not been done yet

[01sahara]

Most of us have learned to do the front unit bearings on our own jeeps. The part can be purchased for much less than you have been quoted and once you have been shown how to do them its fairly easy.   The front comes as a bolt on unit. I think I paid about $150 per side for the parts the last time I did them. Some of the other guys  do them more often so may have a better idea of the price. The larger the tires you are ruining the more often they need to be changed. I think I got about a year out of the last set running 33" tires.  Post up asking for one of the local guys to give you a price on doing it for you and letting you watch.  A few members on the site do good work at really reasonable prices. If you get one of them to do it and watch then you will be able to do them next time yourself.  If they are old you may have to work to get the old unit off.  Lots of anti seize on the bolts when the new ones go on and they will be easier next time. One large socket needs to be purchased that most don't have in their tool boxes. I can't remember the size (36MM?)

[BlackYJ]

It should be about 1-1.5 hours labour per side at a stealership but the bearings are about 150-250 each depending on where you buy them from.  Really you have the tools and some mechanical knowledge you could probably change them yourself in about the same time.  If you know what you are doing you can probably have them both done in an hour

The bearings are a sealed unit so they have to be purchased as a complete unit

[Rubi03 jef]

thanks .. everyone im going to start calling places to get them and hopefully i can get them in this weekend

im pretty good with wrnechs and my brother is a 3rd year mechanic .. your all probably asking why did i bring it to a stealership but its under warrenty so i brought it in for just a service and then i get the call saying its unsafe to drive and all this BS

anyone know where they stock rubi bearings

[JackstandJohnny]

i did em on myZJ before i sold it. picked up the unit bearings for 102$  a piece. thats for a D30 axle though. don't know how much your rubi ones run.
i had paid to get them done once, and it ran me 250 a side at lemon aides place (chanda precision) at the time i was ok with it cause i didn't know what a unit bearing was.  the second set i did my self.  it is actually quite simple and with the right tools its not a prob.   you need a 36mm socket, can be bought at Canadian tire, 20$ i think.  the procedure is simple, i'd get a haynes manual or something and its pretty basic. here goes:
loosen wheel lugs.
loosen axle end nut (the one sticking out with a cotter pin)  i needed air tools for it; i broke a wratchet with a my highlift breakter bar. airtools make it very easy.
pull wheel and nut off.
remove disc caliper and brake disc; procedure in haynes if u haven't done it before.
now with the brakes off you should be down to just the unit bearing, which is held on by 3 13mm 12point bolts accessable in the rear of the knuckle (bearings bolted to knuckle)
take 3 bolts out, remove unit bearing, laugh at how grenaded it probably is (mine was bad)
put new bearing in, i would grease the splines as well
put front end back together.
seriously, i'm the farthest thing from a mechanic, and it took me half hour.  i also read the haynes manual 20 times and looked it up online a bunch. 


this was for my D30 axle though. i've no clue how much different it is for a D44. cant imagine its much different

good luck

[Rubi03 jef]

and the bearing should just slide out no puller needed or some king of press

[JackstandJohnny]

nope. the bearing is part of the wheel hub.  so the wheel bolts to the hole unit, and the unit bolts to the knuckle, and the axle shaft spins the whole wheel bearing unit (hence unit bearing). thats why they are so expensive

with a unit bearing you can't actually access the bearing itself...... its competely incased, hence they are a bitch and have to be replaced a bunch.... and why most of us learn to change em

[dubbleJs]

No press needed. I just pulled one off a D30 last night actually.
There is 3 bolts holding the WB onto the knuckle. Once you remove the brakes soak everything with wd40, back the 3 bolts out a half inch and put an old socket you dont care about breaking onto the socket.
Then you can use a BFH and give some good wacks to each bolt.
You will see the WB starting to work its way out of the knuckle, it may come easily, it may take quite a few good solid wacks.
Axle nut is a 36mm as stated already, the 3 bolts holding it to the knuckle are a 13mm 12point on a dana 30.
I replace mine with junkyard specials...$8/per....but I dont think there's many Rubi's in the yard yet 
GL!  

[Bnine]

Easier method is to wedge a deep socket with a small ext onto the rear bolt, with it threaded halfway out. Turn the wheel the socket bottoms out on the inner C of the axle. Turn some more and the bearing will pop right out.

[Rubi03 jef]

thanks boys .. got the bearings at napa . 377 for both so its 3 times cheaper then stealership ..

going to try getting them done tonight

thanks for the help

[hps4evr]

hehehehe, yep, we make some good cash on wheel bearings:) and stealership is untrue. we dont steal anything. we do top quality work for top price... ok, it does get expensive! but we dont make up the labor times. so dont blame the mechanic please.

[HeadHunter]

1200 for wheel bearings. I dont care if its "quality" thats MORE than BS and they know it. And yea price is not the mechanics fault.

all you need is a floor jack, some base sockets, 13-19mm, (12 point also),  and lock tight if you want. get em cheap at napa and do em on the weekend in your garage.

[WhiteOut]

I'll have to get mine looked at since I'm getting a squeaking whine from the front end, if the shop looks at it and finds it bad, can the keep the jeep saying its unsafe to drive? 

dubbleJ's: wanna teach me if I have to get it done?  I have beer.

[cLAY]

They can refuse to release it if its REALLY unsafe to drive. You would then have to have it towed out, or repaired.