Calgary Jeep Association
4x4 Related Groups => Tech Talk => Topic started by: Knox on May 23, 2010, 08:14:04 PM
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Hey all,
Lately I've been having a sqeeking noise if I hold the clutch in, neutral is fine, but when the clutch is depressed the squeek gets louder and louder for a few seconds then it just caps out at that level.
at first a belt came to mind, but I'm thinking more likely a bearing? However I really have no idea what I'm doing yet... hah
any ideas?
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Sounds like the release bearing.
May as well get a whole new clutch kit since you have to pull the transmission anyways...
Unless you have more time then money...
it's actually not that hard
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agreed
you can do it on your own in a weekend taking your time
Sounds like the release bearing.
May as well get a whole new clutch kit since you have to pull the transmission anyways...
Unless you have more time then money...
it's actually not that hard
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I've been looking online about how to change this out, and I don't own ramps/jackstands/transmission jack etc.
I'm also not familiar with much of this yet.
anyone willing to help me with this swap for something?
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i would love to help but i leave for winnipeg tomorrow
i did mine when mine was stock start with removing your battery cables
remove your shifter boot and your shifter as well
removed your rear drive shaft
then places a jack stand under the out put shaft of the Tcase
removed the skid plate
then removed my front drive shaft
i used a quad jack and placed it under the transmission but as close to the Tcase as posible
then i removed the started
then remove the slave cylender
disconnect your tcase linkage
now to reach the 2 upper bolts of the bell houseing you want to lower the tcase and trans a bit and unplug all the wiring i used about 4 feet of extensions to reach these bolts from the rear of the tcase thats how i was able to see the 2 upper bolts on the bellhousing ... there reverse torques
undo those
then un bolted the 4 lower bolts on the bell housing
slid the trans and tcase back a few feet
now you can change your bearing in the belhousing and the clutch if you are doing both
i would since its pretty cheap to do and its a pain in the arse to this all twice
now for installation i personaly just crawl under the truck and pull the tranny and tcase onto my chest and lift it up a bit and align it all up and then i place a jack stand under the tcase so it holds it in place when i fight with the lower bolts
then the uppers
but i know if you split the tcase from the tranny it would be soooooooooooooooooooooo much lighter and most likely easyier to align it all up
hope that helps ..im sure other people have better ways of doing it
i also did mine in my drive way in january it F ing sucked
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so... guess it's time to finally fix this :P starting acting up again this morning, where are the "better" places /brands to get a replacement release bearing, and while I'm in there a new clutch...
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I wanted to reply here for all to see instead of replying to your message,
I was never into the whole, "Dual Force Triple Friction Quadruple Gold Special".... I've never had a clutch slip on me so I don't think I really need to "upgrade" the system.
I would suggest a LUK brand cluth, available from King-O-Matic here in Calgary. It is an OEM replacement and is reasonably priced, comes with allignment tool, new pilot/release bearing etc.
Joey
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Thanks for the quick reply Joey, I'll check that one out
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when i did mine steve i used the cheap one from Autovalue (well their only one, not sure their brand) it included the pressure plate, clutch plate, pilot bearing, new slave cylinder and an allignment too.
i think it was just under 300$ tax in..............
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If I run into issues I may send you a message Johnny, I have lots of beer and a phone with speed-dial for pizza delivery :P
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as long as its in your garage with your tools i'll be over :)
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I did mine last fall. It was definitely the most all encompassing job I have done on my Jeep so far. It wasn't that hard, Just lots of take apart and put back together. I couldn't find a Luk here in Lethbridge, so I called King o Matic. They wouldn't sell to me, but I asked who in Lethbridge they dealt with and bought my clutch from a local transmission place. I think I paid $250 something for it. It was the same price as the Auto Value one, Sachs I believe, here in town. I did it almost completely by myself in about 15 +/- hrs. I did have help with a set of hands to get at the bolts holding the tranny to the bellhousing as well as some extra muscle to get the tranny out and back in. I borrowed a tranny jack from a friend and after alot of cuss words I went down to Princess Auto and got a pilot bearing puller for $21. I had tried the grease and dowel/bolt trick to get it out, but just made a mess. I definitely had lots of downtime during my working hours. :D
If I can do a clutch, anyone with a little mechanical ability can do it.
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Yeah they definitely weren't willing to sell to me.
Told me to get lost :( if I wasn't with a shop
So...
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Yeah they definitely weren't willing to sell to me.
Told me to get lost :( if I wasn't with a shop
So...
Odd, since at http://www.kingomatic.com/right_to_repair (http://www.kingomatic.com/right_to_repair), they clearly "support" right to repair, but then *THEY* thwart us :) I understand that they are wholesalers, but I do find it a bit contradictory.
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so yep, picked up a clutch kit tonight, (Sachs from AutoValue, ~$260 if anyone is wondering) need to go to a diff auto value for the master cylinder though (stock seems pretty random)
I like Johnnys idea of replacing the master and slave before I attempt to remove the transmission. That will fix the push rod coming out of the firewall issue, but the release bearing will likely still be an issue... Been reading through a Haynes Repair manual and that doesn't look like its a fun task to remove the tranny... I will need to borrow a scissor jack or something if it comes to that apparently. :/
Anyone have more tips/tricks for this task?
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2 decent floor jacks has always worked for me.
Make sure everything is disco'd before dropping it. (inside and outside of jeep)
Can lower the transmission a bit to get better access to the 2 reverse torx (E-12) top bolts, long extensions will help. Tap them on with a hammer to make sure they are on good.
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2 decent floor jacks has always worked for me.
I was wondering if I could rig a floor jack to support the transmission, I read the motor needs support as well when the 2 are disconnected? is that why you mention the second floor jack (with a board to distribute the weight over the oil pan)?
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I had an extra set of hands for physically getting the tranny in and out as well as a tranny jack.
I also used the multi extension method to get at the top torx, which were a pain. I had enough room for a buddy to sit up behind/under the Jeep/Tranny while I reached through the shifter hole to sturdy/stabilize the bunch of extensions.
I also liked the pilot bearing removal tool which I got at Princesses Auto. I did rent one from Canadian Tire, but it broke the second I put any tension on it. I think it was broken by the previous user and "glued" back together since it took next to nothing to break it.
Other than that, it was lots of time to take everything apart and put together.
I would definitely do my next clutch again myself.
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what did this pilot bearing removal tool run you $$? I was planning on going to PA after work today anyways.
Also anyone know the size of the reverse hex bolts? Johnny suggested I swap them out for something more standard for next time.
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what did this pilot bearing removal tool run you $$? I was planning on going to PA after work today anyways.
Also anyone know the size of the reverse hex bolts? Johnny suggested I swap them out for something more standard for next time.
3/8 i believe. 2" long.
thats what she said!
are you sure its that though; i remember you saying you were having physical problems with the clutch/master cylinder/firewall?
fix that up first!
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feel free to come over tonight anytime Johnny and give me your input before you go out for the weekend :P
but yeah I plan on replacing the master cylinder tonight, but I want to be ready for the clutch for the weekend if needed.
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I paid $21 I believe. That was regular price, and not on sale. You can rent them for free, assuming they have them.
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Replaced the master cylinder today, the push rod no longer falls out of the firewall :)
Shiftings improved as well once I figured out there is no "bleeder" screw I just need to pump the clutch...
However the jeep still makes an awful racket intermittently
Guess I will need to do the full clutch as well