Calgary Jeep Association
4x4 Related Groups => Build Ups => Topic started by: FirstTimer on October 25, 2011, 10:48:33 PM
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I've been slowly collecting parts to make my Jeep more capable out on the trails but still be as streetable as possible.
Here she is like the day I bought her;
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/HotChocolateRun057.jpg)
Here she is as she stands today with 33" Goodyear Duratracs on OEM 15" Ravines, 1.25" BL, 1" MML, Quick Discos and Adjustable front TB from JKS, Stearing stabilizer from OME and Bushwacker Flat Fender Flares;
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/2011-08-09171111.jpg)
Now to the good stuff!
Still to install;
2.5" OME HD Lift, Currie JJ CA and JKS Rear Adjustble TB;
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/2011-10-24152023-2.jpg)
New to me Front Dana 30 with a Rock Crusher Diff cover & Dana 35 both with 4:10 Ratio. The Dana 30 needs new U-joints, brakes (which I have yet to decide on), and possible Ball Joints and both axles need new Pinion seals. While the rear axle will need a crush sleeve and yoke replacement which will require reloading the ring and pinion. Noticed the socket wrench on the floor next to the Dana 35, that bad boys all mine!
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/2011-10-24152001-3.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/2011-10-24152011-3.jpg)
Finally some protection with a Husky (yes from the same company that makes the Hucky Liner) Swing-Away tire carrier rear bumper and Currie Rock Ribz Sliders. The bumper is in amazing shape and needs no work while the Rock Ribz need a paint job and the mounting hardware.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/2011-10-24153846-1.jpg)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/2011-10-24151936-3.jpg)
The plan is to have the axles all fixed up, cleaned up and painted by the end of Decmember in time to install the lift kit and CA. Hopefully if time permits between now and then I will have the Rock Ribz and Rear Bumper installed...Although , I may need to borrow some tools for that! ::)
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I'm off Friday, I can swing by and help out for a while if you want to get some stuff done.
You have my cell number. Call or text me after 9:30 tomorrow.
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So it looks like Fraser and I will be working on preping and priming the sliders as well as installing the rear bumper friday. Will post a few pics on that.
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Good choice on the OME lift. There's something to be said for doing it right the first time.
Just curious - you're swapping to a 35 rear / 30 front...other than the 4.10 gears, is that different from what's under your Jeep right now? It kinda sounds little it like you're inheriting some problems with these axles...
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Just curious - you're swapping to a 35 rear / 30 front...other than the 4.10 gears, is that different from what's under your Jeep right now? It kinda sounds little it like you're inheriting some problems with these axles...
The 4 cyl axles are usually a great swap option for people that want 4.10s as they are a lot cheaper than gear swaps
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The 4 cyl axles are usually a great swap option for people that want 4.10s as they are a lot cheaper than gear swaps
Gotcha. I guess that as long as the cost of the axles, ball joints, pinion seals, and any associated parts is still less than a re-gear, it all makes sense.
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Good choice on the OME lift. There's something to be said for doing it right the first time.
Just curious - you're swapping to a 35 rear / 30 front...other than the 4.10 gears, is that different from what's under your Jeep right now? It kinda sounds little it like you're inheriting some problems with these axles...
Thanks! I thought long and hard about the lift and bit the bullet, spent the extra cash and went for what appears to be the Cadillac of springs and shocks for this size of lift.
As for the axles, they are the same yes other than the gearing, my Tj has 3.07 currently and when on Deerfoot (which I drive everyday) as soon as I hit a hill I go from 100km/h to as low as 80km/h... and once I add the heavier bumper, winch, etc. I'm sure it'll get worse. This option, including all the repairs, is indeed much less then re-gearing has Black YJ mentioned. Furthermore the experience and knowledge I have gained from working on them has been priceless. Plus I will have tons of extra parts to make trail repairs with my new found knowledge...Just need the tools now!!
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And beer, need beer. Tools come second.
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And beer, need beer. Tools come second.
I just thought that was implied!! But yes, beer comes first!
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Good choice on OME... I got the HD this time around and real happy with the ride... Make sure you get the longer springs in the right corners hehe.
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Make sure you get the longer springs in the right corners hehe.
I haven't looked into any instal threads or the instructions yet. Longer springs front or back? I assume front?
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The taller of the two rear springs go on passenger side. Taller of the two front springs goes on the drivers side. If you put your 2 rears on flat ground... youll notice ones about an inch longer, same with the front two.
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Really!?! Why is that?
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I would assume due to trackbar geometry, the way everything flexes, take a close look at it sometime, it's not symmetric.
edit: whats the difference between the Light Med and HD kits? Is it the added weight you plan on putting on it?
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Compensate for engine torque that compress the rear passenger side spring. Longer front drivers side spring.... to compensate for your weight... typically youll be alone for most of your driving.
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Its one of the little touches that make OME a great kit. If you want a hand when it comes time... we could bang it off in a couple hours. Ill bring tools... you... beer hhehe.
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Compensate for engine torque that compress the rear passenger side spring. Longer front drivers side spring.... to compensate for your weight... typically youll be alone for most of your driving.
now don't I feel ridiculous for thinking it had something to do with geometry... ::)
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now don't I feel ridiculous for thinking it had something to do with geometry... ::)
Nah... Torque twist will affect suspension geometry a little less with a spring setup like this. See...we all right ;-)
As far as spring rates... ya pretty much. They also affect torque twist, maybe squat and anti-squat a wee bit?, and a heavier spring will give you a little more lift with more rebound over a lighter spring. A lighter spring will give you the opposite... assuming on the exact same rig (same weight). Some people find the OME HD lift harsh on lights rigs. the heavy springs give fast rebound and the nitro shocks give you harder rebound... Compare to a dump truck vs. a cadillac with soft springs and hydro. Personally... its a jeep, not a cadillac so its okay with me.
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Good choice on OME... I got the HD this time around and real happy with the ride... Make sure you get the longer springs in the right corners hehe.
Same here. Once the springs get broke in the ride is great. x2 on the springs. I messed that up and had to change all the springs around, what are the odds. Murphy's law I guess.
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Thanks for the info guys! This will come in handy when I go to install the lift.
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Fraser a.k.a Whiteout came over tonight and helped me install my new (to me) rear swing away tire carrier. Install went smooth with a couple hick-ups when it came to the new hardware I bought and lining up the nutplates that tied the bumper into the rear frame rail.
First things first, I made sure I drenched all the nuts and bolts I was going to be removing in liquid wrench. I highly suggest this step for the removal of any stock parts. BUT, this doesnt always help, as we wound up shering off the driver side frame rail bolt and had to grind off the small washer-bolt that held the bumper end caps on.
Next, had to remove the bumper end caps from the stock bumper in order to access the frame rail bolts;
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/r-bumper12.jpg)
After that, removed all the OEM hardware. Frasers new electric impact wrench from Canadian Tire was very helpful (I almost went and bought one myslef, but why buy when you can borrow :-[)
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/r-bumper22.jpg)
Then removed the swing out/tire carrier portion from the bumper for easier installation. Took some time to get the frame rail tie in bolts and nut plates lined up, but got it all lined up in the end and everything bolted down tight;
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/r-bumper32.jpg)
The tire carrier portion is adjustable to accomodate a 33" or 35" tire by adjusting the height so we had to move it down as it was to high,
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/r-bumper4.jpg)
I'll through up some better pics tomorrow. I already love this bumper and can't believe it has been discountinued, there is no vibration and the swing out portion is smooth and greasable.
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So I have a few questions going forward;
1. What options are there to fill in the holes left from the stock tire carrier? Just use bolts?
2. I can not for the life of me get the 13mm 12 point bolts that hold unit bearings on off!!! I have soaked them like crazy in liquid wrench and nothing even budged! Any suggestions?
Thanks all!
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2. I can not for the life of me get the 13mm 12 point bolts that hold unit bearings on off!!! I have soaked them like crazy in liquid wrench and nothing even budged! Any suggestions?
Get a long " cheater pipe" and slip it over the handle of a breaker bar.
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2. I can not for the life of me get the 13mm 12 point bolts that hold unit bearings on off!!! I have soaked them like crazy in liquid wrench and nothing even budged! Any suggestions?
Thanks all!
step one; grow a set of nutz; truck nutz even ;)
step two; breaker bar on those bolts. bigger the better. i've got a 2" breaker specifically for this. if not, put a wrench on the ratchet for an extension. or what i do (used to) is use my my 1/2" 3/4" socket on an extension, and slip it over the ratchet. like a condom (you know what that is right???????? :o) this gives you more leverage. its all you need. or muscles.
step three: buy new 3/8s ratchet.
or load the axle up, drive it over here, i'll pull the axles, and give you my tierods ;) i will also heckle you for your lack of man muscles ;)
bring beers for the three minutes of work it takes to pull the shafts :p
as for the holes, just leave em. or put the bolts back in. 6 in one, half dozen in the other.
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step one; grow a set of nutz; truck nutz even ;)
step two; breaker bar on those bolts. bigger the better. i've got a 2" breaker specifically for this. if not, put a wrench on the ratchet for an extension. or what i do (used to) is use my my 1/2" 3/4" socket on an extension, and slip it over the ratchet. like a condom (you know what that is right???????? :o) this gives you more leverage. its all you need. or muscles.
step three: buy new 3/8s ratchet.
or load the axle up, drive it over here, i'll pull the axles, and give you my tierods ;) i will also heckle you for your lack of man muscles ;)
bring beers for the three minutes of work it takes to pull the shafts :p
as for the holes, just leave em. or put the bolts back in. 6 in one, half dozen in the other.
step one; completed at the age of 13
step two; should have thought of this, was a moron and tried to use a wrench...
step three; done and done
I'll head over to Canadian Tire and grab a 12 point 13mm socket , through it on the breaker bar and giver hell! If I am still unsuccessfull I will load the old girl up and bring it over.
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as long as the socket is on good(make damn sure of this) your either gonna move it or break it so dont give up till one of the two happen.... if u need a permanent cheap(price of gas to my house) snipe i can snag something outta the scrap bin tomorrow....
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I've heard the term "snipe" used before, but I don't realy know what it means?
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Just anything to extend the handle and give more leverage. Use your breaker bar, if that doesn't work, toss the handle form your HiLift on the end and give er.
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its the same as what tubby described as a 'cheater bar'.
Slip a piece of metal tube over the handle of your breaker bar/ratchet to effectively make the handle longer. As suggested, the handle of a Hi-Lift jack is perfect for this :)
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That's the plan! I will report back later on with how it went.
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just dont eat it ... and if u do provide picture for educational purposes
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Hint: hi-lift jack handle works great as a snipe.
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Couldn't make it to Canadian Tire to get the socket I needed to remove the unit bearing, so I decided to do some prep work on the rock sliders.
They had a slight bit of service rust so I cleaned them up with some acetone first, and man that stuff is strong smelling, even through a mask! Anyway, then I took the grinder to them with a wire brush fitting. Worked like a charm!
One more pass with the acetone;
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/Slidersprep1.jpg)
Then laid out some plastic sheet and got to work with the primer. I went with the Tremclad Professional stuff, as suggested by Vinman;
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/Slidersprep2.jpg)
Only got one side done as the stuff needs 24hrs to dry before you can handle and move. I'll prime the inside tonight and hopefully have them painted up by the weekend and ready to instal. I'm leaning towards painting them Flat black, for a little bit of a different look. Any reason why I shouldn't do this?
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Flat paint is less aerodynamic. Glossy cuts the wind down and improves mileage. Almost as good a bacon grease..
No thread is complete with out someone posting a this type of comment! I feel fulfilled...
On another note I picked up a few things to help me along with my build!
Another set of jack stand and floor jack;
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/tools2.jpg)
Grease gun & pliers
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/tools1.jpg)
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On another note I picked up a few things to help me along with my build!
Another set of jack stand and floor jack;
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/tools2.jpg)
You are going to need a bigger jack and jackstands once lifted
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You are going to need a bigger jack and jackstands once lifted
Yeah I know, kinda a bummer, but they were so cheap I couldn't pass them up to help out with the build.
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they'll still work fine for things like axles, you'll just need a bigger pair for holding up the frame etc, 6T PA are usually on sale and decent.
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So working on the front axle today things were going smoothly, got the unit bearing bolts off with no problem!! However, the unit bearing it's self will not come off and I am not sure how to go about removing it...I tried using Stu Olsen's method as shown in the link below, but as the axle is not on the jeep doesn't really work...
http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/unitbearing/unitbearing-1.htm
Any suggestions!?!
Thanks
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BFH!!!
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Huh!? ???
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BFH = Big fackin hammer
Leave the bolts threaded into the unit bearing just so theyre at the end of the thread then put a socket you dont care about(i use my 14mm) on the end as to not wreck the bolt heads, then smack the socket with a BFH rotating throughout the 3 bolts...works every time!
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Took Jonahs' advice , Thank you by the way!!! Voila, off came the unit bearings. Took several good smacks with the BFH, but in the end they came off.
Placed an extra socket on the slightly threaded bolts;
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/2011-11-05150101.jpg)
Then removed unit bearings and axle shafts;
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/2011-11-05150035.jpg)
Labelled all hardware in ziplock bags and placed with respective unit bearing;
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/2011-11-05151244.jpg)
Question: Is there a way to tell if a unit bearing is starting to go by inspecting it once it is off the knuckle?
Also painted up the sliders, went with flat black for better aerodynamics;
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/2011-11-05155745.jpg)
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Took Jonas' advice , Thank you by the way!!! Voila, off came the unit bearings. Took several good smacks with the BFH, but in the end they came off.
Glad it worked out for ya Kyle! I fixed my name to avoid confusion... :P
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Thread hijack posts removed. It may not be your idea of a build but keep the bickering about that for PMs or something. Also please make sure build threads contain useful information ... unit bearings replacement is marginal so lets not stoop to Ed Hardy seat cover installs or best location for your Tap Out sticker ;)
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i installed this super duper cool plug in air freshner into my nissan murano the other day...... funny story this vechile came into the shop with a amp draw and it was the air freshner causing it
things be getting complicated...
builds looking good glad to see some one becoming a gearhead... there dont seem to be to many anymore...
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builds looking good glad to see some one becoming a gearhead... there dont seem to be to many anymore...
Thanks for kind words! I still have lots to learn and lots to do to my rig, but I am enjoying every minute of it! Just can't wait to get out on the trails again.
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So once again I went on a parts buying spree! With little to no time to do any tare down, build up, repair, etc, buying things gives me the fix I need. However, with the Holidays around the corner and some days off work I hope to get a few, and if things go well, everything compelted!
Here's the List ;
Dana 35;
- Install new Pinion Seal
- Clean, POR 15 & spray paint flat black
- Overhaul Brakes (new shoes, rotors, cylinder, springs, etc.)
- Drill out CA mounts for the Currie JJ CAs
- Clean up and possibly spray paint sway bar, links and Track Bar, then reinstall
- New U-joints for the drive-shaft
Dana 30;
- Install new Pinion Seal
- Clean, POR 15 & spray paint flat black - Completed
- Install new upper CA arm bushings
- Install ZJ V8 Tie Rod
- Overhaul brakes, new rotors, pads & extended brake lines from Crown.
- New U-joints for the axles shafts and drive shaft
Armor;
-Sliders are all painted just waiting on a custom decal to protect the body from metal-on-metal contact. Also can't find phillips truss head screws... >:( Anyone know where I can get these?
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Then once all that boring, yet neccessary, stuff is completed it will be time to get the jeep on on axle stands and tear out the current axles and suspension, replacing with the new-to-me axles and gorgeous new suspension components from OME and CURRIE!
Nothing to crazy "build-wise" but I can't wait to get to work!
Oh and hopefully Santa will bring me a sweet New KINGONE winch too!
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Also can't find phillips truss head screws... >:( Anyone know where I can get these?
Calgary Fastener? Quest? Bolt Supply?
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Already tried bolt supply, calgary fasteners and triad. Ill call Quest see if they gottem
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why do you want a truss head for the rockers? Are the holes not countersunk?
The best solution to pull the rockers tight imo is a flat head stainless bolt. Don't do the black oxide, they will rust in no time. A typical drive for that type of bolt is a socket which is just fine, especially when compared to a phillips drive screw...
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Please do not use screws to mount sliders.
They will fall off, causing death or injury to innocent folks on the highways.
Drill, nutsert, bolt, done
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I am just following the instructions from Currie...
You can see here;
http://www.currieenterprises.com/instruction_sheets/index.html
# 16 & 17
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Ah, OK gotcha now.
When you say "screw" and never mentioned nutsert or backing plate, it just sounds like you're just using a sheet metal screw into the body. ;D
Wherever you got the nutserts from should have the hardware to go in them, no?
The round head might look better, but a bolt will be easier to tighten properly.
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I got all the Hardware from Bolt Supply just off of 32nd Ave NE, and they did not have the screws. I should go back and get bolts instead, as I never thought about how they would be easier to tighten.
why do you want a truss head for the rockers? Are the holes not countersunk?
The holes are not counter sunk...Also, I'll see if they have flat head stainless bolts in the same size, I didn't really want to go with Black Oxide anyway.
Thanks for the advice guys.
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the alternative to nutserts since you have a backerbar anyways, is to use bolts and nylock nuts on the inside. Looks like you're drilling 3/8" holes anyways, why not go with a 3/8 stainless bolt :)
If you really wanted a domed head instead of a hex say, you could spend a little extra time with a file and make square holes (in the rocker, ok a lot of extra time, just watch tv while filing...)... and use one of these carriage bolts
we'll see if stealing bandwidth from boltsupply works or not... (http://www.boltdepot.com/images/catalog/carriage-bolt.gif) if it doesn't follow the link http://www.boltdepot.com/images/catalog/carriage-bolt.gif
but I guess since you are drilling holes and it didn't come with hardware... do whatever you want! and think will look good.
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the alternative to nutserts since you have a backerbar anyways, is to use bolts and nylock nuts on the inside.
Only 3 of the 8 holes are accessible to that "backerbar" (if he has it).
Also note when drilling, on the inside is a wiring harness. Instructions don't mention it but you should be aware of it before drilling ;)
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I have a buddy fabbing up a "backerbar" didn't think it would be wise to install the sliders without one. Thanks for the heads up on the wiring harness t00!
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Any updates??
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Unfortunately not...after entertaining way to much family over the holidays, I finally got around to turning some wrench then went ahead and fractured the fifth phalange (pinky bone) on my right hand. So now, I'm out of commission for six weeks and I can't grip anything...Looks like its more staring at the parts in my garage till my hand heals :(
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Damn crappy luck bud.
What do you have left? I could lend a hand now that I'm not busy with exams and work.
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I don't know or remember if i ever met you on any runs, but my name is Anton and i am trying to meet more people and get more involved with the jeeps. I don't really have much knowledge with all the parts on the rigs but i am good with my hands. So to the point, if you need a extra hand i would like to help and learn. u can be the brains and direct me what to do.
I am sure you know many people on the web but i would be more then happy to help and learn from that.
Anton
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Was able to get a bit of work done this weekend, as my hand has been healing nicely.
Installed new Upper Control Arm bushings using the ball joint/u-joint press I picked up for 30$ at PA. Before install, I placed the bushings in the freezer for a few days, and used a small amount of grease to lube the brackets. Pretty easy install which only took about 20 minutes;
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/Dana30left.jpg)
Placed a 13/16th socket between the two mounting holes as well as another socket in the gap of the CA bracket, to keep it from callapsing in on itself under the force;
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/Dana30right.jpg)
I also re-installed the unit bearings on the Dana 30 and finished painting the Dana 35 with POR 15 and a couple coats of flat black spray paint.
Next weekend is a Drum Brake overhaul and hopefully by the Family Day long weekend I will be ready for installation of axles, CA and lift!
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So my hand finally healed and I found sometime (understatment of the year) to get working on installing my lift, axles and a fix up a few other things.
Started late Friday with my Brother and was able to get the whole front suspension and axle out in a few hours. This was about the only thing that went smoothly.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/2012-02-17224900.jpg)
Picked up these sweet little casters ( you can see them under the rotor) from PA for $7, 200lbs load capacity, huge help moving the old axle out and the new on in.
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/2012-02-17224946.jpg)
Out with the old 3:07 axle axle and stock suspension;
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/2012-02-17224846.jpg)
In with the new 4:10 axle, OME 2.5 HD springs and shocks and Currir JJ adjustable Upper and Lower CA along with a ZJ V8 Tie Rod;
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/2012-02-18235928.jpg)
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x
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By the end of the day yesterday with some much need help from Dagoose and 03Jeeper we were able to get the front suspension all bolted back in, steering included, got the front crank shaft and oil pan seals repaired and had the engine running smoothly with some fresh oil!
(http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z326/Jeepg/Jeep%20Modifications/2012-02-20225258.jpg)
Tonight and tomorrow I'll be working on the back end and hopefully be able to drive to work!
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So is it leaking again yet? ;D
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Don't know...still in the garage... >:(