Calgary Jeep Association

Author Topic: DD to WW  (Read 22793 times)

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Offline binare

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Re: DD to WW
« Reply #15 on: October 27, 2011, 08:04:13 PM »
Its one of the little touches that make OME a great kit. If you want a hand when it comes time... we could bang it off in a couple hours. Ill bring tools... you... beer hhehe.

Offline Knox

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Re: DD to WW
« Reply #16 on: October 27, 2011, 08:30:18 PM »
Compensate for engine torque that compress the rear  passenger side spring. Longer front drivers side spring.... to compensate for your weight... typically youll be alone for most of your driving.

now don't I feel ridiculous for thinking it had something to do with geometry...  ::)
2003 TJ
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"if you lose the stick, chances are you'll lose the jeep......"

Offline binare

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Re: DD to WW
« Reply #17 on: October 27, 2011, 09:08:20 PM »
now don't I feel ridiculous for thinking it had something to do with geometry...  ::)

Nah... Torque twist will affect suspension geometry a little less with a spring setup like this. See...we all right ;-)

As far as spring rates... ya pretty much. They also affect torque twist, maybe squat and anti-squat a wee bit?, and a heavier spring will give you a little more lift with more rebound over a lighter spring. A lighter spring will give you the opposite... assuming on the exact same rig (same weight). Some people find the OME HD lift harsh on lights rigs. the heavy springs give fast rebound and the nitro shocks give you harder rebound... Compare to a dump truck vs. a cadillac with soft springs and hydro. Personally... its a jeep, not a cadillac so its okay with me.
« Last Edit: October 27, 2011, 09:22:26 PM by binare »

Offline Alltornup

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Re: DD to WW
« Reply #18 on: October 27, 2011, 09:43:38 PM »
Good choice on OME... I got the HD this time around and real happy with the ride... Make sure you get the longer springs in the right corners hehe.

Same here.  Once the springs get broke in the ride is great.  x2 on the springs.  I messed that up and had to change all the springs around, what are the odds.  Murphy's law I guess.

Offline FirstTimer

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Re: DD to WW
« Reply #19 on: October 27, 2011, 09:50:02 PM »
Thanks for the info guys!  This will come in handy when I go to install the lift.
02' Black TJ Apex on 33s, 2.5"  OME HD lift, Currie JJ CA on all four corners, 4:10 axles, Husky-Liner Rear Swing-Away Bumper and Bushwackers Flat Flares.

Offline FirstTimer

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Re: DD to WW
« Reply #20 on: October 28, 2011, 10:59:52 PM »
Fraser a.k.a Whiteout came over tonight and helped me install my new (to me) rear swing away tire carrier. Install went smooth with a couple hick-ups when it came to the new hardware I bought and lining up the nutplates that tied the bumper into the rear frame rail.
First things first, I made sure I drenched all the nuts and bolts I was going to be removing in liquid wrench.  I highly suggest this step for the removal of any stock parts.  BUT, this doesnt always help, as we wound up shering off the driver side frame rail bolt and had to grind off the small washer-bolt that held the bumper end caps on.
Next, had to remove the bumper end caps from the stock bumper in order to access the frame rail bolts;

After that, removed all the OEM hardware.  Frasers new electric impact wrench from Canadian Tire was very helpful (I almost went and bought one myslef, but why buy when you can borrow  :-[)

Then removed the swing out/tire carrier portion from the bumper for easier installation.  Took some time to get the frame rail tie in bolts and nut plates lined up, but got it all lined up in the end and everything bolted down tight;

The tire carrier portion is adjustable to accomodate a 33" or 35" tire by adjusting the height so we had to move it down as it was to high,

I'll through up some better pics tomorrow.  I already love this bumper and can't believe it has been discountinued, there is no vibration and the swing out portion is smooth and greasable.
02' Black TJ Apex on 33s, 2.5"  OME HD lift, Currie JJ CA on all four corners, 4:10 axles, Husky-Liner Rear Swing-Away Bumper and Bushwackers Flat Flares.

Offline FirstTimer

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Re: DD to WW
« Reply #21 on: October 31, 2011, 07:31:07 PM »
So I have a few questions going forward;
1. What options are there to fill in the holes left from the stock tire carrier?  Just use bolts?
2.  I can not for the life of me get the 13mm 12 point bolts that hold unit bearings on off!!!  I have soaked them like crazy in liquid wrench and nothing even budged!  Any suggestions?

Thanks all!
02' Black TJ Apex on 33s, 2.5"  OME HD lift, Currie JJ CA on all four corners, 4:10 axles, Husky-Liner Rear Swing-Away Bumper and Bushwackers Flat Flares.

Offline tubby

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Re: DD to WW
« Reply #22 on: October 31, 2011, 07:44:05 PM »
2.  I can not for the life of me get the 13mm 12 point bolts that hold unit bearings on off!!!  I have soaked them like crazy in liquid wrench and nothing even budged!  Any suggestions?

Get a long " cheater pipe" and slip it over the handle of a breaker bar.
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Offline JackstandJohnny

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Re: DD to WW
« Reply #23 on: October 31, 2011, 07:50:32 PM »
2.  I can not for the life of me get the 13mm 12 point bolts that hold unit bearings on off!!!  I have soaked them like crazy in liquid wrench and nothing even budged!  Any suggestions?

Thanks all!

step one; grow a set of nutz; truck nutz even ;)
step two; breaker bar on those bolts.  bigger the better. i've got a 2" breaker specifically for this.  if not, put a wrench on the ratchet for an extension. or what i do (used to) is use my my 1/2" 3/4" socket on an extension, and slip it over the ratchet.  like a condom (you know what that is right????????  :o) this gives you more leverage.  its all you need. or muscles.
step three: buy new 3/8s ratchet.

or load the axle up, drive it over here, i'll pull the axles, and give you my tierods ;) i will also heckle you for your lack of man muscles ;)

bring beers for the three minutes of work it takes to pull the shafts :p

as for the holes, just leave em.  or put the bolts back in.  6 in one, half dozen in the other.
~ rescue green JKUR on 35s.  typical rubicon build

Offline FirstTimer

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Re: DD to WW
« Reply #24 on: October 31, 2011, 09:03:40 PM »
step one; grow a set of nutz; truck nutz even ;)
step two; breaker bar on those bolts.  bigger the better. i've got a 2" breaker specifically for this.  if not, put a wrench on the ratchet for an extension. or what i do (used to) is use my my 1/2" 3/4" socket on an extension, and slip it over the ratchet.  like a condom (you know what that is right????????  :o) this gives you more leverage.  its all you need. or muscles.
step three: buy new 3/8s ratchet.

or load the axle up, drive it over here, i'll pull the axles, and give you my tierods ;) i will also heckle you for your lack of man muscles ;)

bring beers for the three minutes of work it takes to pull the shafts :p
as for the holes, just leave em.  or put the bolts back in.  6 in one, half dozen in the other.
step one; completed at the age of 13
step two; should have thought of this, was a moron and tried to use a wrench...
step three; done and done
I'll head over to Canadian Tire and grab a 12 point 13mm socket , through it on the breaker bar and giver hell! If I am still unsuccessfull I will load the old girl up and bring it over.
02' Black TJ Apex on 33s, 2.5"  OME HD lift, Currie JJ CA on all four corners, 4:10 axles, Husky-Liner Rear Swing-Away Bumper and Bushwackers Flat Flares.

Offline heep-a-lop

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Re: DD to WW
« Reply #25 on: October 31, 2011, 09:07:52 PM »
as long as the socket is on good(make damn sure of this) your either gonna move it or break it so dont give up till one of the two happen.... if u need a permanent cheap(price of gas to my house)  snipe i can snag something outta the scrap bin tomorrow....

Offline FirstTimer

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Re: DD to WW
« Reply #26 on: October 31, 2011, 09:24:22 PM »
I've heard the term "snipe" used before, but I don't realy know what it means?
02' Black TJ Apex on 33s, 2.5"  OME HD lift, Currie JJ CA on all four corners, 4:10 axles, Husky-Liner Rear Swing-Away Bumper and Bushwackers Flat Flares.

Offline WhiteOut

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Re: DD to WW
« Reply #27 on: October 31, 2011, 09:27:19 PM »
Just anything to extend the handle and give more leverage. Use your breaker bar, if that doesn't work, toss the handle form your HiLift on the end and give er.

Offline Raspberry

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Re: DD to WW
« Reply #28 on: October 31, 2011, 09:30:02 PM »
its the same as what tubby described as a 'cheater bar'.

Slip a piece of metal tube over the handle of your breaker bar/ratchet to effectively make the handle longer. As suggested, the handle of a Hi-Lift jack is perfect for this :)
DECEASED - 'Big Ben' (black '97 XJ) : ~9" lift - 35's - Ford 9" - 4.56 gears - armoured up - ...and a sound system that can annoy the hell out of Lemon-aid Jay!!
NEXT - Dark green '98 XJ to build up....

Offline FirstTimer

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Re: DD to WW
« Reply #29 on: October 31, 2011, 09:32:08 PM »
That's the plan!  I will report back later on with how it went.
02' Black TJ Apex on 33s, 2.5"  OME HD lift, Currie JJ CA on all four corners, 4:10 axles, Husky-Liner Rear Swing-Away Bumper and Bushwackers Flat Flares.