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Author Topic: CHEROKEE BUILDUP  (Read 1918 times)

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4Points

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CHEROKEE BUILDUP
« on: November 16, 2008, 05:54:37 PM »
Well I've got my winter project already lined up but the word from management is that I need something more family friendly then the old CJ7.  So I was thinking trying to get an XJ , lift it, gear it, lock it, and fit 36's.  So what is the easiest way to get those size tires under one of these jeeps.  And what should I look for in buying one.

Offline cLAY

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Re: CHEROKEE BUILDUP
« Reply #1 on: November 16, 2008, 07:32:18 PM »
There is no cheap or easy way to put 36s under an XJ. This is from someone who has done it.

XJs are unibody so body lifts are out. You'll need a suspension lift of 8". After 6" of lift the factory suspesnion geometry gets messed up so long arms are highly recommended. 33s are the safe limit for the stock axles, 35's can be done, but not for long. People who argue this point just haven't wheeled to the fullest capacity of a 36" tire. Past 35s with stock axles is just begging to be "THAT GUY" on the trail.

XJs are leaf sprung in the back so its pretty easy to swap in a different axle back there. The front is another matter. Fronts are coil sprung like a TJ so an axle swap for the front requires quite a bit of fabbing and welding. Also frame reinforcments are a good idea for running 36s as the unibody will start to flex.

36's will also require extensive cutting of the body to retain flex.

Bumpers aren't easy either as they need to be tied properly into the unibody frame to prevent ripping out.

Past 33s ripping the steering box off the frame is a definte possibility so think about ram assist and bracing the box/reinforcing the frame.

To properly build an XJ for 36s and be reliable budget $5000 minimum, not including tires or cost of rig. This takes in account a long arm kit, d44 front axle, high steer, replacement rear axle, bracket kit for front axle, brake lines, and assumes you can weld/fab as needed yourself.

Some sites for research:

http://www.naxja.org   -the definitive site for XJs

http://www.claytonoffroad.com/   -the best and strongest(and most expensive) long arm lift kits for Cherokees


Not sure what your background is but an xj with 6" of lift, 33s and front/rear lockers is an EXTREMELY capable rig and WAY cheaper/easier to build.


Also in my opinion the 5psds offered in the XJs are junk while the AW4 auto is almost bullet proof.
« Last Edit: November 16, 2008, 07:34:53 PM by cLAY »
..

'93 ZJ, 5.2L, lifted/locked/36s..<gone>
'98 5.9er 4.10s,locked,LA,WJ knuckles

Offline Immortal

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Re: CHEROKEE BUILDUP
« Reply #2 on: November 16, 2008, 08:27:19 PM »

Also in my opinion the 5psds offered in the XJs are junk while the AW4 auto is almost bullet proof.

Damn... I have a builtup XJ running 33s, with 35s for summer with the 5spd, and a stock one with the AW4....  :(

here is a start 4points....              http://www.4wheeler.ca/index.php?showtopic=38379

« Last Edit: November 16, 2008, 08:51:32 PM by Immortal »
if we were smart with our money we wouldn't own Jeeps.
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Offline cLAY

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Re: CHEROKEE BUILDUP
« Reply #3 on: November 16, 2008, 09:32:47 PM »
Yep you did it backwards. ;) Wheel it long enough and you'll be into that AX15. Everyone I know thats wheeled one for any amount of time has either had hydraulic clutch problems or had to rebuild the whole thing.
..

'93 ZJ, 5.2L, lifted/locked/36s..<gone>
'98 5.9er 4.10s,locked,LA,WJ knuckles

Offline hps4evr

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Re: CHEROKEE BUILDUP
« Reply #4 on: November 17, 2008, 06:40:38 PM »
to help keep the lift low there are bushwacker cut-out flares for the xj. adds some more room. might want to aime for 35" tires. will make life way easier
YJ=Y’all Jealous

Offline Eagle Jeeper

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Re: CHEROKEE BUILDUP
« Reply #5 on: November 18, 2008, 04:46:30 PM »
I've got the 36's on my cj already these were what I was looking to use.  I think I'm going to build a family friendly cj.  I've got most of the parts I need already.  I am 4points by the way  I used an old account by accident its a long story.

Thanks guys
94 YJj7, AMC360,T176,Dana300(twin stick, Dana 44 4:56, 14 bolt FF welded 4:56, 2 1/2" susp SOA, 38/12.5/15 TSL's, warn 8274,  Custom dash

Offline cablesmurf

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Re: CHEROKEE BUILDUP
« Reply #6 on: November 21, 2008, 09:39:03 AM »
I suggest this:

- 8" coils spacers in front
- stock TJ coils in the rear with 8" coil spacers
- 8" shock extentions all the way around
- 10" brakeline extentions
- Cut the factory LCA's and weld in some 20" extentions for the "longarm" upgrade (you'll need the stock ones from a TJ for the rear) If you don't have access to a welder, Use PL400, that crap will stick anything to anything
- Relocate the front trackbar to the top of the axle (about 8" up oughta do it)
- Get rid of those stupid sway bars...they are a waste of time
- Cut the rear DS, and weld in some square tube...3" should be fine and drill mulitiple holes in it for proper venting and weight distribution
- Swap out the dana 30 in the front to a dana 35 from a TJ (already set up for coils and control arms and is direct bolt in
- re use the Dana 30 you took out and put it in the rear as it is high pinion and will give you awsome clearence and again, it's already setup for coils and control arms and of course, direct bolt in
- Bushwacker flares to cover the tires cause they look bitchin'
- Now here's the best trick - use 2x6 wood for the bumpers...it wayyy easier to cut and if you paint it black, no one will EVER know the differrence. Just make sure you don't use them as a tow point...wrap the tow strap ound the diff instead if you need to be tugged. Safety first you know?

Good luck and let me know how it turns out. If you need any help, feel free to post up or PM Dom or Clay...they probably know best.
Hi, my name is Dan and I'm a Jeepaholic

Offline XJHERO

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Re: CHEROKEE BUILDUP
« Reply #7 on: November 21, 2008, 09:51:44 AM »
I suggest this:

- 8" coils spacers in front
- stock TJ coils in the rear with 8" coil spacers
- 8" shock extentions all the way around
- 10" brakeline extentions
- Cut the factory LCA's and weld in some 20" extentions for the "longarm" upgrade (you'll need the stock ones from a TJ for the rear) If you don't have access to a welder, Use PL400, that crap will stick anything to anything
- Relocate the front trackbar to the top of the axle (about 8" up oughta do it)
- Get rid of those stupid sway bars...they are a waste of time
- Cut the rear DS, and weld in some square tube...3" should be fine and drill mulitiple holes in it for proper venting and weight distribution
- Swap out the dana 30 in the front to a dana 35 from a TJ (already set up for coils and control arms and is direct bolt in
- re use the Dana 30 you took out and put it in the rear as it is high pinion and will give you awsome clearence and again, it's already setup for coils and control arms and of course, direct bolt in
- Bushwacker flares to cover the tires cause they look bitchin'
- Now here's the best trick - use 2x6 wood for the bumpers...it wayyy easier to cut and if you paint it black, no one will EVER know the differrence. Just make sure you don't use them as a tow point...wrap the tow strap ound the diff instead if you need to be tugged. Safety first you know?

Good luck and let me know how it turns out. If you need any help, feel free to post up or PM Dom or Clay...they probably know best.
Dam thats what i should have done
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Offline Immortal

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Re: CHEROKEE BUILDUP
« Reply #8 on: November 21, 2008, 05:50:45 PM »
Nevermind the 'Smurf.
He's just bitter 'cause his wife made him get rid of all his Jeeps.
if we were smart with our money we wouldn't own Jeeps.
Here's your cup of STFU... ENJOY!

Offline cablesmurf

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Re: CHEROKEE BUILDUP
« Reply #9 on: November 21, 2008, 08:42:54 PM »
Hey man...this is sound advise!

Save you a bundle too...
Hi, my name is Dan and I'm a Jeepaholic

Offline Eagle Jeeper

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Re: CHEROKEE BUILDUP
« Reply #10 on: November 22, 2008, 08:20:04 AM »
Thanks

for the input but the project is on hold until I get the house reno s finished   
94 YJj7, AMC360,T176,Dana300(twin stick, Dana 44 4:56, 14 bolt FF welded 4:56, 2 1/2" susp SOA, 38/12.5/15 TSL's, warn 8274,  Custom dash