Build-a-stroker vs buy-a-stroker

[Elsifer]

With all the technical info floating around, I think I've done my research. However, there are a couple of questions I'd like to ask the gallery of experts.

• Cost of machining existing blocks and heads vs buying a nearly full package from Golen
• Cost of pistons, crank, cam vs Golen package
• Warranty of cobbled together parts vs Golen package

Maybe I have too much income, but for me, it seems easier to get a Golen engine, pull mine, transfer over what I want to reuse, add more that can't be, and put it back in.

Plus from what I understand, the ecu sorts itself out when the motor first starts up. I am not sure if anything else needs to be added in terms of computer(s) stuff.

On an unrelated note, anyone know of who makes an air starter? I've installed and piped big-huge starters for big CAT diesel engines for a Gas Compressor; but I can't seem to find anything for smaller, more abundant engine sizes.

[Bnine]

You're backwards a bit there Chris.

Building your own is more money.

Hobbling together is not an option. That is where strokers get a bad name.

That said, when you build your own, that means you are going the extra mile to to it right.

My machining, custom pistons, balancing, and bottom end assembly was over 3k, freinds and family discounted to 2300. The pistons alone are 600$.

My crank is balanced within .01 ounce end to end. Block was bored with a 2" boring plate. Ring were hand filed to custom fit. ARP studs throughout the engine. Rod and piston assemblies were balanced.

Then you have cam, rockers, and head work to consider.

Golens stroker is "ok".

In order to run one, you would have to revert to older 99 and down, serpentine system.

You are better off to pull your own block, and do the work.

Use your own rods. Use a hesco head to eliminate the poor flow design of the 03 and up but maintain all the modern bosses required.  Keith Black 9:1 custom forged pistons, which allows you to use your rods.

You will make more power with the long rod stroker, versus using 4.2 rods. Its less angle during rotation.

The golen would be cheaper, and a bit easier. Doing your own, with your motor would be a lot more motor, but a bit more money.

The above recipe is a 300-315 hp stroker that bolts right in to your application. Golen is about 260-265, and would require you to convert serp systems.

Look to harland sharp for the best rockers, and buying them direct is actually the cheapest option out there. 1.6 ratio non adjustable, 5/16 studs.

Hesco for injectors. Your intake takes pencil style, 2000 and up. Hesco does them for 243$ a set.

You'll want a 62mm throttle body.

Eldlebrock header at mopac is a good deal right now. 425$, direct bolt in for your model.

Thats enough to get you going at least

Air starters, I have never seen one that wasnt industrial.

[Gearhead]

Hey Bill  , have you ever asked Hesco how much the balanced reciprocating assembly is ? , comes with crank , rods , pistons , rings .

I had a spare crank and rods ( my original 88 ) , and sold it last year without thinking it might come in handy.


The one I built wasn't cheap , of course , I converted to fuel injection at the same time and did a few other upgrades which added to the cost.

[Elsifer]

...
My machining, custom pistons, balancing, and bottom end assembly was over 3k, freinds and family discounted to 2300. The pistons alone are 600$.
...

Thanks for the clarifications!

So, how long a turn around is required for this?

If I tear apart my engine, haul the block and head to the machine shop. How long would it take to get a balanced bottom end, and head, back to me?

Thanks for the big list of items Bill. I want to tackle this in the spring. And wheel for a season with the upgraded motor, and then start my build of the rig next winter. I guess I would need an alternate daily driver for the duration of the build, which at this point; I need one regardless. Taking my heep up to Fort Crack isn't economical nor practical. Though a lot of fun and very useful in the odd situation.

Thanks for all the info!

[Bnine]

All depends on the shop line up.

I would order the pistons NOW. Thats what held me up for about 6 weeks.

The machining, if there is no line up, is just a few days work.

I cant garruntee what work you can get in calgary. I had mine all done by a guy in GP that specializes in 4.0's. Hence the boring plate, and fine tuning on the balance. I think you will be hard pressed to find a shop with a boring plate in Calgary.

The hesco stuff on the other hand, usually ships out same day it ordered. Dont forget a new double roller chain as well.

[Bnine]

I've never priced the hesco rotating assembly Jeff.

I imagine its pretty spendy. I know their full kits are 3k, most of which is the crank, rods, and pistons.

[Lugnut]

Why no SBC option?  You could build it on the side and drop it in when ready.

You can build a 350 / 383 pretty cheap these days.

[Bnine]

The cost prohibitive part is the computer, guages, radiater, and all the conversion mounts and adapters.

Adapters will run about 1000$

If you dont do a ramjet, your gauge cluster cluster goes goodbye. Redoing the gauge cluster and dash will run a bunch of hours, and a good 1000$. To do the ramjet its a 7000$ touch, plus the rad, mounts, etc etc.

Radiator is reversed outlets. Cheap is 300, expensive is 500.

Pretty tough to get into a smallblock for less then 8000-10,000 with port injection, high end internals, etc etc.

You could do it super cheap with an old TBI and a few gauges, (tach, oil, water) but those only make a hair over 200hp in stock form anyways.

There is a guy on ROF that did a ramjet conversion. Awesome conversion, but he spent a pretty penny, and truckload of time making it all work.

[Gearhead]

I looked into a torque plate for 4.2 / 4.0 blocks , it was a little over four hundred.

I'm not  aware of any Calgary shops that may have one.

Get this , there are engine builders that use torque plates on cylinder heads when cutting valve seats to simulate stresses  of the casting being clamped down .

Next stroker build I do  , is gonna be a little different than the last , even though this one turned out just fine.  There are differences in opinion on what parts are best ,  the intended use plays into these choices.

Some prefer the later cranks which have fewer counter weights , some use earlier versions which are heavier and carry more inertia. There's the debate over short or long rods , cast or forged pistons , and more. My understanding is , more inertia would be beneficial to low speed torque , the later / lighter crank would rev more freely.

Here is a discussion started recently that died off , scroll down , I listed some of the machine shop and parts prices..................
 http://forum.calgaryjeep.com/index.php?topic=10631.0

Not to hijack a thread but..............

Tuning these engines is a gray area   ,   um ....... for me ,     I'm open for opinions and discussion on this , preferably something that works well , does not cost an arm and a leg and is not a piggy back device which changes sensor values or fools the computer. My familiarity with automotive electronics is limited , as far as I know YJ's are OBD 1  , later systems are OBD 2  or   ?? , ov course there would be tuning differences that apply to each of them.  Any one in the know , feel free to speak up or post some links.

[hps4evr]

good point with the SBC. you hear about them, you read them in the mags, and it looks so cheap and easy... but i highly doubt a SBC is that cheap and easy. especially to get the same reliability and simplicity as the 4.0L. go with the stroked 4.0L! weather you buy or build. its a bolt in deal, done!