Swapping out the t-case, what else should I do while I'm at it?

[LifesGrand]

I'll be swapping out t-cases here in the next week if you don't already know & I noticed a leak of trans fluid between the t-case & trans, I was asking this question earlier with a couple individuals, is there a seal that I should be replacing while I have the t-case out? What else should I be doing while I'm at it?
Thanks!

[LifesGrand]

Looks like I'll be needing a Transmission Output Seal.

Napa calls it the transfer case mounting adapter seal, part number NOS 19211
I'll prob just get one from the stealer...
Anything else besides a good supply of cold bevy's?

[cLAY]

May as well replace the T-case input seal as well. When its leaking from that area it could either come from the tranny or t-case. Also when you seperate the tranny and t-case if you find they were siliconed together make sure that you clean the mating surfaces and apply new silicone. If there is no silicone then don't worry about it.

A 9/16s stubby wrench helps with undoing the top bolts. I usually undo the tranny crossmember from the frame and let the tranny/t-case drop down a bit on a jack to give more room to work. Careful undoing the crossmemeber bolts, they are often rusted in and can snap off in the frame.

The front driveshaft can be a bugger as well. Check that you have the correct size wrench for both the t-case end and the axle end. If I remember right, the bolts often have  a small 1/4" head so be sure to get a 1/4"  6 point wrench. Don't use a 12pnt you'll round the bolt head off for sure. Also the bolts are often locktited in. If you are pulling on the wrench like a gorilla and its not budging then get a propane torch and heat the bolt/yoke up. Heat causes locktite to release.

Have fun. HAHAHAHAHAHA..........

[LifesGrand]

Thank you sir...
Sounds like I should be blasting these crossmember bolts up with some PB right away & let it soak.
As far as the driveshafts go, I've only taken the front off at least 4 times within a year... no worries there & I am quite aware of being carefull of stripping these bolts... Don't ask how I know.. & you are correct, it's a 1/4" bolt head.. Your memory still serves you well...
I'm going to split open the 242 this weekend & try to get real familure with it prior to the swap.
Thanks for the heads up... I think I will have fun..

[XJHERO]

If you "open" it up you should use mopar ATF RTV to seal it back up.
Do you need to take it apart? i would leave it together if you can.

[cLAY]

You are swapping out the inputs I'm guessing?  There is a roll pin on the np242 that has to be removed that can be a pain.

Read my writeup on swapping a 249 input into a 242 here:

http://www.fourwheelstampeders.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=4603

BTW Make sure the 242 is shifting into all the gears fully. I have wrecked two 242 tcase now from them not shifting fully into 4wd and the teeth got stripped off the planetary. Of course it still goes into 4wd low just fine but you don't have any drive to the front wheels and don't notice it until the first good obstacle on a trail. I finally gave up on the 242 and went with a 231.

For silicone I've used the black RTV and its worked fine. The "Right Stuff" brand of RTV is really good as well but $$$.

[LifesGrand]

This is correct, I'm about 90% sure that I'll have to swap the input's, I have yet to take a boo underneath & determine the input shaft length, but from what everyone has indicated is that I have the medium length shaft (.850) & it looks like the donor is shorter (.750).

Great write up Clay... I'll need to have a good look at it a bit later 2nite...
I'm surprised to hear that you have had no luck with the 242 after how popular this swap is for the 249...

I don't know why I waste my time doing things on the heep that I should have had from the factory to begin with, oh well.. at least I'm learning a thing or two about a thing or two..


 

[cLAY]

For some reason I had trouble getting the linkage right. I originally swapped a 242 into my XJ and shortly after had no 4wd. Would go into 4hi and 4low but no front drive, just rear. Just before it happened I had trouble shifting it and was pulling pretty hard on the shift lever.So I tore it down and found a bent fork and wore out sliders. Fixed that up and tweaked the linkage and it was good for the next 3 years.

Put it into the ZJ and it gave me trouble first trip out. So I tore it down again and found some gears on the planterary stripped off from not fully engaging. Couldn't find a 242 at the time and had a 231 sitting on the shelf so I just used that.

That pretty 242 case all painted up in the pics ended up in the scrap bin at work. If the 231 blows up I may try a 242 again but have no plans for swapping at this point. It doesn't get daily driven so its not a big deal.

[Canuck Bob]

I read on a forum recently about a guy who did a swap then shortly added a tcase shift bracket.  He noted it would have been much simpler with the case out.

[LifesGrand]

Thanks for the tips guys...
One other question I have for this is... Is there a type of bushing that mounts to the top area of the t-case to prevent it from bouncing around? Sort of like a swaybar endlink of some sort?
Thanks!

Edit: Clay it does sound like you had some issues with the linkage, fortunately for me Nathan was ever so gracious to grab the full linkage from a ZJ with a 242 in it... So hopefully this will be all I need for a smooth swap...