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Author Topic: HD steering ?  (Read 6843 times)

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Offline Rubi03 jef

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HD steering ?
« on: July 16, 2009, 09:45:03 PM »
i bent my tie rod and am now looking for something better and and stronger

its for a 04 TJ rubicon

any input would be great
and pricing as well
04 rubicon <4'' X series RC lift, 1.25'' RC body lift, 1'' RC MML, CV rear drive shaft,  Stubby front bumper, CB,35 MTZ" ,Hi Lifter 54'',LED tail lights , flat fenders, LED front Flasher, half doors, Light force spots, and CDN M101 custom Military trailer

Offline BlackYJ

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Re: HD steering ?
« Reply #1 on: July 16, 2009, 10:14:04 PM »
i am not a TJ guy but a lot of people go with the currie system
'95 YJ with a few mods

Offline Stinky Bear

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Re: HD steering ?
« Reply #2 on: July 16, 2009, 10:14:14 PM »
I am running the O.R.O U-turn and love it....tough and well designed, it is a true cross over conversion. Oh you have to run a stock pitman arm(even if you have a lift kit) due to the design. The only drawback .... it is a we bit spendy...at $649usd plus shipping and the gouge at the border!!




Bear
« Last Edit: July 16, 2009, 10:18:51 PM by Stinky Bear »

Offline esi

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Re: HD steering ?
« Reply #3 on: July 17, 2009, 12:35:31 AM »
Supposedly the links that are put on a V8 ZJ are built better than what they put on T&X&Yjs
Formerly of Boots & Boost Inc
Back farming and fabricating again.

Offline tubby

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Re: HD steering ?
« Reply #4 on: July 17, 2009, 05:11:27 AM »
Dale is correct. The Zj with V8 had some  stronger components. The tie rod is a solid bar with slightly larger tie-rod ends.  The downside is that it has a downward bend to it, which gives up a little ground clearance compared to the straight  Tj/Xj tie -rod. Still a cheap upgrade.

Another solution would be the Teraflex High Steer system. M.O.R.E., Off Road Only, and Currie HD, are also uber beefy choices.
Jeff, you could also see Billy for any steering upgrades to your Rubi. Keep in mind that all these aftermarket steering upgrades are well over $600.
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Offline morerpmfred

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Re: HD steering ?
« Reply #5 on: July 17, 2009, 09:33:08 AM »
bought  the currie system from northridge for 487.95 . He has a couple of sets in stock in ponoka and that includes free shipping in Canada. Very stout piece of iron. Very heavy duty. If you price out the complete grand cherokee v8 system and go with an aftermarket hd tie rod system, the currie system is still cheaper and way stronger.

Offline jeepxtc

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Re: HD steering ?
« Reply #6 on: July 17, 2009, 10:43:20 AM »
Not sure what differences in steering parts are between the 2004 but this is what I did with my 98TJ- I believe they are the same - and all available from Napa - call them for costs


ZJ Tie Rod Conversion

http://www.stu-offroad.com/steering/zjtie/tierod-1.htm





Tie Rod End

 269-2788 (Napa #)
ES3096L (Moog #)
---------------------------------------------------
 
Adjusting Sleeve 269-1134 (Napa #)
ES2079S (Moog #)
-------------------------------------------------------

Tie Rod   NCP 269-6085 (Napa #) or
DS1312  (Moog #)
-----------------------------------------------------------





CHEERS
« Last Edit: July 17, 2009, 10:49:32 AM by jeepxtc »

Offline 2grand4u

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Re: HD steering ?
« Reply #7 on: July 17, 2009, 04:06:59 PM »
rustys off road HD tie rod i got it on my zj the thing is massive and it's pretty cheap for what it is.

http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RS-TR125-UV&Category_Code=ste


the only down side of this is that if you hit something hard enough it would chip the paint on the tie rod and break the knuckle or something, this thing is built.
2011 ford ranger going to get some love soon

Offline Rubi03 jef

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Re: HD steering ?
« Reply #8 on: July 18, 2009, 02:37:44 AM »
I am running the O.R.O U-turn and love it....tough and well designed, it is a true cross over conversion. Oh you have to run a stock pitman arm(even if you have a lift kit) due to the design. The only drawback .... it is a we bit spendy...at $649usd plus shipping and the gouge at the border!!




Bear

i read up about this one .. and looks good . easy bolt .. and i also called the stealer ship about the OEM stuff its 750 for replacement so im looking to spend the same but for more BEEF
i also tried to contact billy but he is probably busy .

so does any have the number to north ridge in ponoka
04 rubicon <4'' X series RC lift, 1.25'' RC body lift, 1'' RC MML, CV rear drive shaft,  Stubby front bumper, CB,35 MTZ" ,Hi Lifter 54'',LED tail lights , flat fenders, LED front Flasher, half doors, Light force spots, and CDN M101 custom Military trailer

Offline morerpmfred

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Re: HD steering ?
« Reply #9 on: July 18, 2009, 02:59:26 AM »
north ridge 403 783 0878  You can google northridge4x4.ca
« Last Edit: July 18, 2009, 03:02:04 AM by morerpmfred »

Offline Rubi03 jef

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Re: HD steering ?
« Reply #10 on: July 18, 2009, 03:37:46 AM »
north ridge 403 783 0878  You can google northridge4x4.ca


thanks..
checked the wedsite and they have 2 options the ORO u Turn      or  the cerrie set up

looking the 2 of them over the ORO is larger tubing as well its a crossover set up .. what is the benifit of the crossover vs the stock set up

and i also checked out Rustys  it isnt a bolt on kit kind going to mess with my warrenty
but for the price it doesnt sound to bad
any one running these set ups and how much better are they from others that may be out there .

i need to order something on monday my jeeps been parked way to long .
and im also looking to go hydro assist in the future so must be strong enough for that
04 rubicon <4'' X series RC lift, 1.25'' RC body lift, 1'' RC MML, CV rear drive shaft,  Stubby front bumper, CB,35 MTZ" ,Hi Lifter 54'',LED tail lights , flat fenders, LED front Flasher, half doors, Light force spots, and CDN M101 custom Military trailer

Offline Stinky Bear

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Re: HD steering ?
« Reply #11 on: July 18, 2009, 06:49:38 AM »
The ORO U-turn is not tube......it`s solid chromo  bar stock = one beefy unit.

I also run an 8"  PSC Hydro assist on the U-turn system I have....I will post up a couple pics later today of my set up if I get a chance for you.

I have been running the U-turn for a year with no issues and the hydro for a mont and they play very nice together!!

Oh a steering article for your info(v-link is what is in your TJ)

 


Crossover Steering - Drag Link to Opposite Knuckle
This is a common steering setup in solid front axles.  The drag link to knuckle type crossover steering is also one of the most ideal aftermarket designs. With the drag link to knuckle type crossover steering, the drag link drops from the base of the pitman arm directly to the passenger side knuckle, either on top of the knuckle or below the knuckle's steering arm.  This setup minimizes radial drag link and tie rod play due to ball joint movement.  The tie rod connects the passenger side knuckle to the driver side knuckle.  With this type of steering setup, keeping the tie rod as close to parallel to the axle will minimize bump steer.




 


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Crossover Steering - Drag Link to opposite end of Tie Rod

Drag link to tie rod crossover steering is one of the most common factory steering systems.  With a Drag link to tie rod crossover steering setup, the drag link connects the pitman arm and to a passenger side location directly on the tie rod. As the drag link controls steering by moving the tie rod, the tie rod serves to steer and maintain a parallel distance between the knuckles.  This design comes with some inherent play even if all the parts are new and in good shape.  To prevent binding , tie rod ends are sphere-shaped allowing rotation in all directions.  As steering forces are applied the tie rod is inherently allowed to twist a few degrees forward or rearward.  This twisting action allows forces that would have been applied as steering force to give a little and not steer the vehicle or allow the vehicle to wander a little.



 


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

V-Link Steering

The V-Link Steering configuration is another common factory steering system.  The V-Link Steering configuration is made up with a V style or V shaped design where the driver side tie rod is connected directly to the drag link the connects the pitman arm to the passenger side knuckle.  The drag link also serves as the passenger side tie rod.  Effectively forming a "V-Link" between the two steering knuckles.  The biggest disadvantage of the V-Link steering configuration is that the distance between knuckle steering arms changes as the suspension cycles into compression.  The net effect is that the tires will either toe in or toe out during suspension travel.  As suspension compresses up into the vehicle, the tires will toe out.  As suspension droops away from the vehicle, the tires toe in towards each other.  The effects of toe in, toe out with a V-Link type suspension usually as minimal with stock suspension systems but become more exaggerated with modifications, lifts and increased angles applied to the drag link and tie rod.




 


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


 

Re-circulating Ball and Tie Rod
Common for Independent Front Suspension (IFS)

With steering box equipped Independent Front Suspension (IFS) systems where the wheels and steering knuckles move independent of each other, the re-circulating ball and tie rod configuration is commonly used.  The re-circulating ball and tie rod configuration uses a tie rod type connecting rod called a centerlink in between the pitman arm on the steering box and a rotating idler arm on the opposite side of the vehicle.   Two independent tie rods, one per side, connect the steering knuckles to the centerlink.  As the centerlink is moved by the pitman arm, the centerlink moves each tie rod, which move the steering knuckles.  This design is optimal for independent front suspensions due to strength over rack and pinion type designs.  One draw back to this type of design is the increased number of joints that wear over time.  With more joints linking the steering box to the knuckles, a small amount of wear can be exaggerated into steering play.  This type of design is also more difficult to lift while maintaining proper steering geometry.




 


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

(IFS) Rack-and-Pinion
Common for Independent Front Suspension (IFS)

Rack-and-Pinion Steering systems are the more modern and advanced form of independent front suspension steering systems and are becoming more common in IFS 4x4's over (Saginaw) steering box configurations.  The rack-and-pinion steering configuration setup uses a pinion gear at the end of the steering shaft that mates with a geared rack (or track).  As the pinion gear is rotated by steering wheel, steering shaft movement, the rack is moved side to side.  The rack in turn moves the two tie rods that connect the rack ends to each steering knuckle.  Advantages of Rack-and-Pinion steering systems is precision of movement.  Disadvantages of the Rack-and-Pinion steering system is a lack of power and durability sometimes needed offroad.




 


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Double Crossover

Similar to the drag link to knuckle type crossover steering, the purpose of the double crossover steering system typically is to get around obstructions to the steering components, gain lift while maintaining steering geometry or to remove feedback to the steering wheel or relieve stress to the steering box.

The double crossover steering system uses a tie rod and a bellcrank as the first from the steering box.  This first link between the pitman arm and bellcrank serves to redirect angles or relieve stress or feedback.  From the bellcrank, a drag link connect down to the driver side knuckle or sometimes to the main knuckle to knuckle tie rod, similar to the drag link to tie rod crossover type steering system.  This in effect allows the drag link to drop to the drive side rather than the passenger side of most drag link / tie rod systems.




 




Offline Rubi03 jef

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Re: HD steering ?
« Reply #12 on: July 18, 2009, 07:40:10 PM »
The ORO U-turn is not tube......it`s solid chromo  bar stock = one beefy unit.

I also run an 8"  PSC Hydro assist on the U-turn system I have....I will post up a couple pics later today of my set up if I get a chance for you.

I have been running the U-turn for a year with no issues and the hydro for a mont and they play very nice together!!

Oh a steering article for your info(v-link is what is in your TJ)



 
so just to be sure the ORO is solid steel and isnt a tube right
so thats means its stronger then what is out there

as for hydro assist how hard was it to install and what kind of steering box are you using (stock or after market)

The ORO U-turn is not tube......it`s solid chromo  bar stock = one beefy unit.

I also run an 8"  PSC Hydro assist on the U-turn system I have....I will post up a couple pics later today of my set up if I get a chance for you.

I have been running the U-turn for a year with no issues and the hydro for a mont and they play very nice together!!

Oh a steering article for your info(v-link is what is in your TJ)

 


Crossover Steering - Drag Link to Opposite Knuckle
This is a common steering setup in solid front axles.  The drag link to knuckle type crossover steering is also one of the most ideal aftermarket designs. With the drag link to knuckle type crossover steering, the drag link drops from the base of the pitman arm directly to the passenger side knuckle, either on top of the knuckle or below the knuckle's steering arm.  This setup minimizes radial drag link and tie rod play due to ball joint movement.  The tie rod connects the passenger side knuckle to the driver side knuckle.  With this type of steering setup, keeping the tie rod as close to parallel to the axle will minimize bump steer.




 


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Crossover Steering - Drag Link to opposite end of Tie Rod

Drag link to tie rod crossover steering is one of the most common factory steering systems.  With a Drag link to tie rod crossover steering setup, the drag link connects the pitman arm and to a passenger side location directly on the tie rod. As the drag link controls steering by moving the tie rod, the tie rod serves to steer and maintain a parallel distance between the knuckles.  This design comes with some inherent play even if all the parts are new and in good shape.  To prevent binding , tie rod ends are sphere-shaped allowing rotation in all directions.  As steering forces are applied the tie rod is inherently allowed to twist a few degrees forward or rearward.  This twisting action allows forces that would have been applied as steering force to give a little and not steer the vehicle or allow the vehicle to wander a little.



 


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

V-Link Steering

The V-Link Steering configuration is another common factory steering system.  The V-Link Steering configuration is made up with a V style or V shaped design where the driver side tie rod is connected directly to the drag link the connects the pitman arm to the passenger side knuckle.  The drag link also serves as the passenger side tie rod.  Effectively forming a "V-Link" between the two steering knuckles.  The biggest disadvantage of the V-Link steering configuration is that the distance between knuckle steering arms changes as the suspension cycles into compression.  The net effect is that the tires will either toe in or toe out during suspension travel.  As suspension compresses up into the vehicle, the tires will toe out.  As suspension droops away from the vehicle, the tires toe in towards each other.  The effects of toe in, toe out with a V-Link type suspension usually as minimal with stock suspension systems but become more exaggerated with modifications, lifts and increased angles applied to the drag link and tie rod.




 


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


 

Re-circulating Ball and Tie Rod
Common for Independent Front Suspension (IFS)

With steering box equipped Independent Front Suspension (IFS) systems where the wheels and steering knuckles move independent of each other, the re-circulating ball and tie rod configuration is commonly used.  The re-circulating ball and tie rod configuration uses a tie rod type connecting rod called a centerlink in between the pitman arm on the steering box and a rotating idler arm on the opposite side of the vehicle.   Two independent tie rods, one per side, connect the steering knuckles to the centerlink.  As the centerlink is moved by the pitman arm, the centerlink moves each tie rod, which move the steering knuckles.  This design is optimal for independent front suspensions due to strength over rack and pinion type designs.  One draw back to this type of design is the increased number of joints that wear over time.  With more joints linking the steering box to the knuckles, a small amount of wear can be exaggerated into steering play.  This type of design is also more difficult to lift while maintaining proper steering geometry.




 


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

(IFS) Rack-and-Pinion
Common for Independent Front Suspension (IFS)

Rack-and-Pinion Steering systems are the more modern and advanced form of independent front suspension steering systems and are becoming more common in IFS 4x4's over (Saginaw) steering box configurations.  The rack-and-pinion steering configuration setup uses a pinion gear at the end of the steering shaft that mates with a geared rack (or track).  As the pinion gear is rotated by steering wheel, steering shaft movement, the rack is moved side to side.  The rack in turn moves the two tie rods that connect the rack ends to each steering knuckle.  Advantages of Rack-and-Pinion steering systems is precision of movement.  Disadvantages of the Rack-and-Pinion steering system is a lack of power and durability sometimes needed offroad.




 


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

Double Crossover

Similar to the drag link to knuckle type crossover steering, the purpose of the double crossover steering system typically is to get around obstructions to the steering components, gain lift while maintaining steering geometry or to remove feedback to the steering wheel or relieve stress to the steering box.

The double crossover steering system uses a tie rod and a bellcrank as the first from the steering box.  This first link between the pitman arm and bellcrank serves to redirect angles or relieve stress or feedback.  From the bellcrank, a drag link connect down to the driver side knuckle or sometimes to the main knuckle to knuckle tie rod, similar to the drag link to tie rod crossover type steering system.  This in effect allows the drag link to drop to the drive side rather than the passenger side of most drag link / tie rod systems.




 





Crossover Steering - Drag Link to Opposite Knuckle
This is a common steering setup in solid front axles.  The drag link to knuckle type crossover steering is also one of the most ideal aftermarket designs. With the drag link to knuckle type crossover steering, the drag link drops from the base of the pitman arm directly to the passenger side knuckle, either on top of the knuckle or below the knuckle's steering arm.  This setup minimizes radial drag link and tie rod play due to ball joint movement.  The tie rod connects the passenger side knuckle to the driver side knuckle.  With this type of steering setup, keeping the tie rod as close to parallel to the axle will minimize bump steer.




 


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Crossover Steering - Drag Link to opposite end of Tie Rod

Drag link to tie rod crossover steering is one of the most common factory steering systems.  With a Drag link to tie rod crossover steering setup, the drag link connects the pitman arm and to a passenger side location directly on the tie rod. As the drag link controls steering by moving the tie rod, the tie rod serves to steer and maintain a parallel distance between the knuckles.  This design comes with some inherent play even if all the parts are new and in good shape.  To prevent binding , tie rod ends are sphere-shaped allowing rotation in all directions.  As steering forces are applied the tie rod is inherently allowed to twist a few degrees forward or rearward.  This twisting action allows forces that would have been applied as steering force to give a little and not steer the vehicle or allow the vehicle to wander a little.



 


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

04 rubicon <4'' X series RC lift, 1.25'' RC body lift, 1'' RC MML, CV rear drive shaft,  Stubby front bumper, CB,35 MTZ" ,Hi Lifter 54'',LED tail lights , flat fenders, LED front Flasher, half doors, Light force spots, and CDN M101 custom Military trailer

Offline Stinky Bear

  • Baby Wheeler
  • Posts: 80
Re: HD steering ?
« Reply #13 on: July 18, 2009, 08:19:01 PM »
sorry when I previewed the post the pics were working!!!! Hmmmmm

Offline Impact

  • Budget Lift
  • Posts: 191
Re: HD steering ?
« Reply #14 on: July 18, 2009, 11:38:28 PM »
Anybody having problems getting a hold of northridge in alberta?
12 Crush JKU Sport
05 Orange TJ Sport-2" BB, 1.25" BL... (1 tons, 39's... Who the fawk really knows!)
92 Red Cherokee Sport-4.5" Rustys Lift, 33's KM2's, Eagle Rims(405k's n still tikkin...) Sold :(