YJ build

[maritimeYJ]

So I've done a search thru this forum, but the search option comes up with alot of posts (not useful).  And I haven't seen a post like this in a while.  So I'm fairly new to the jeep scene and I want to build my YJ.  My rig is pretty much stock.  Before I moved out here I restored the frame and body with 1/8th plate, put in a 1.5" BL, TJ flares.  So needless to say..I drive a stocker.  So what I want to do is plan out my build to reduce the cost of changing parts down the road...do it right the first time.

Obviously is money wasn't an issue, I wouldn't be writing this post.

I guess the first thing is..what do I want it for?  Well I basically want an all around rig to play with on the weekends, but still be able to drive it around the city...I'm not interested in one specific type of wheeling.  I don't plan on going any bigger then 33's or 35's so what suggestions on axles?  Keep the D35 and D30 or will I break them?  Should I go bigger?

My tranny is starting to die I think so I'll be changing that soon.  Its the crappy Peugot, so what tranny should go with?  Also by changing to a particular tranny, what else will I have to change? TC? etc?

I understand that alot of parts are universal, ie ford, chevy dodge will fit with some modification, but should I try and stay jeep or all ford etc?

So I guess I'm looking for an outline of a plan for what to upgrade and what not to.

lockers, axles, TC, tranny, etc.

Any help would be appreciated..thanks

[BlackYJ]

To get to 33s you need 4" of lift and 35s will require 5-6".  Now if you want a daily driver and a capable weekend offroader, I would recommend 33s and a locker or 2.  I run 33s with front and rear lockers on my YJ and it can go A LOT of places.  If you lilke mud, I would steer towards a swamper style tire because mud is what they were designed for, but they are not very good on road.  The BFG is a good tire mud, and MTRs suck in mud.  However, the MTR is a VERY good all around off-road tire.

As for the tranny, if it is starting to go I would switch to an AX-15 or NV3550, bot were behind the 4.0L after the peugot, but you will to change your T-case at the input gears have different splines (21 vs 23).

If you are going to stick with 33s and no not very heavy on the skinny pedal, then the D35 will be okay.  35s or heavy on the skinny pedal, you better start looking for another rear axle.  Best choices are a D44 or ford 8.8.

As for lockers, I have ARBs in both and love them.  My jeep is a daily driver and I like the fact there is no bad on-road characteristics.  Detroits are very good as well, as is the Detroit Electrac.  If you don't want to be with a carrier replacement style locker, go with an Aussie locker, it just replaces the spider gears in the carrier.

Hope this helps, and one other piece of advice is to start saving because once you start it doesn't stop.

[JeepInMud]

SOA would be my lift of choice to clear your tires, if you want bigger tires after that and aren't afraid of body trimming, TJ flares.

You have the 4.2L I assume in an 88 YJ, I would look at a carb upgrade to the MC2100 or going to a 4.0l HO head conversion with FI.

[apex]

damn you BlackYJ, you beat me to it.

[BlackYJ]

damn you BlackYJ, you beat me to it.

HAHAHAHA!!!!  :twisted:  :twisted:

[89YJGUY]

BlackYJ hit the nail on the head with pretty much everything- except you could get 35's on with a 4" lift b/c of the 1 1/2" body lift you mentioned you already have installed.

I personally think 33's are as much as you could ask for with the stock axles.

Being $ is a factor I would look at lift and tires as being you first priorities.

Winch would be #3, decent gear ration next and then traction control devices.  I put the winch before the locker(s) because even with lockers you will get stuck.  And when you are stuck with lockers you're probably going to need that winch to get you out.  

Of course by this point your VISA card is maxed out and you have to finally admit to others that you are addicted.  Building a Jeep on a budget is an oxymoron.  Like they say:
Just
Empty
Every
Pocket  

[BlackYJ]

BlackYJ hit the nail on the head with pretty much everything- except you could get 35's on with a 4" lift b/c of the 1 1/2" body lift you mentioned you already have installed.

This is true, but I was just trying to state the amount of lift required where it be suspension or body lift.

[Mark_93YJ]

Hi,

I am sort of like you and your project.  Started stock, did a little, and looking for more.

One of my restrictions was keeping the overall height low enough to clear the parkade at work ... a rather interesting challenge.

I started with a 1" body lift.  A royal pain ... @%!@# rusted bolts.  But enough clearance for 31's.

I bought some TJ flares for more room in the rear ... not installed yet as I only have 31's and no need.

I looked at a bunch of suspension options.  The stock leafs were pretty much gone or in need of something.  I looked at 2" kits, but figured the old penny for a pound rule and opted for the 4" kit.  

The 4" kit (leafts, shocks, ubolts, plates) was great.  Keep in mind you should buy new leaf spring bolts as you will end up cutting one or more of them.  So pick up a few ... I prefer Chryco ones with the shouldered bolts rather then generic grade 8.

You should think about brake line extensions.  The rear you will need one.  A stock rubber from another vehcile will work, or just upgrade front and rear with braided stuf.  You can also relocate the front ones under the frame.  I ended up with some rubbing on my brake line in one mud hole ... to say the least I was glad I had braided stainless vs. rubber!  If you do run longer ones, strap them to your shocks.

Many YJ lifts will also come with or recommend a drop kit for your transfer case skid plate.  Now my 2 cents here are why lift the jeep only to lower the transfer plate.  I split the difference and put a 1" motor mount spacer (retains stock mounts), and lowered the transfer case with 1X2 tubing which netted 7/8's drop after you clearance for frame nut inserts.  The result (in my setup) was no vibration issues ... and I think I could have cut another 1/8-1/4 out of the transfer case drop.  I will add that the motor mount lift was a bit of a pain on the passenger side mount.  A bit of triming and short four letter words were required.

I am not at the point of looking at axles and lockers.  I have 31's, but looking for 33's.  I have 15x8 rims with less offset.  Looking at 33X10.5 for the skinny look, but may go 33x12.5's.  

One thing I did do was swap in a set of 2.5L 4.10 axles.  I had 3.07's factory.  The 4.10's were a GREAT swap and cheap too!  Since I was putting new leafs in ... the axles were already out!

The front D30 appears strong enough for 33's and a stock 4.0L.  If your running 35's or a V8, then I might suggest the D30 will become a weak point.  Anyways ... this ranks lower priority than the rear D35.

In the rear, a D44, if you can find one is a decent upgrade.  It's just a whole lot bigger include the axle shafts.  Not to mention it does not have C-clips.  Your D35 might be the non c clip version, but it still has the 27 spline axles and tiny spider gears.  A 1987 XJ is the best place to find a D44 donor.

Another option is the 91-up ford explorer.  Larger ring gear, bigger axles, but same bolt pattern.  It is a bit narrower, so you might need to address that with rims.  If you look at the 96-up, you can get rear disc brakes!

My 2 cents on axle swaps.  A D44 will maintain a higher resale than if you swap in a ford diff.  If you care about this stuff.

There is tons of stuff to read.  My favourite forum to search for info is www.jeepforum.com.  There is a YJ section.  Seems to be 1000's of posts and some OK info.

Mark.