Tire Protrusion from Fender

[YellowJK]

I have 37's with 3.5" lift plus 1" body lift on my JK. Spyderlock rims have large offset so MT tires protrude approx 4" from standard rubicon fender. are there flat fenders that will give legal coverage, Xenon's look like +1.5" only, and what are the legal requirement here in Alberta? Thanks

[FiEND]

ALBERTA REGULATION 122/2009

Traffic Safety Act

VEHICLE EQUIPMENT REGULATION

might find the info there.

[w squared]

I don't think that anyone makes a "bolt-on" fender that will provide that much coverage.

Most of what's available for the JK seems to be an extra 1.5 inches of coverage - Xenon wides and the Bushwackers.

Here are the requirements:

64(1)  A motor vehicle or trailer must have a part of its body, a fender or a mudguard that covers the width of each tire.

(2)  The body part, fender or mudguard referred to in subsection (1) must be above each wheel and

                                 (a)    extend downwards at the rear of each axle or axle group to at least the centre line of the axle, or

                                 (b)    be a distance away from the ground equivalent to at least 1/3 of the horizontal distance from the bottom edge of the mudguard to the centre line of the axle, but not closer to the ground than 150 millimetres when the vehicle is loaded.

4 inches of stick out is fair amount.

[YellowJK]

thanks for the reference, looks like the wheel/tire has to be covered, however in article 64 it also says a passenger vehicle does not need a mud guard! Confusing! Maybe I'll go with Xenon's on the back as the steel flat front fenders are less obvious. Thanks again. G

[Rubi03 jef]

i was wondering the same when i had the boggers those stuck out 4 - 5 inchs   i guess i got lucky never got pulled over .. had a few cops fallow but never stop

but now my new set up is a bit more friendly looking 

but seems like most cops just want a mudflap covering the back so you dont destroy everyones windows. funny thing is my jeep windshield is wrecked but not because of big mudders but because of litle all season tires picking up all the little stones

[w squared]

Our Wrangler windshields are so close to vertical that we might as well hand out pellet guns to every driver around us. I budget for a new windshield every spring 

[Mudhawg]

my XJ has nearly half the bogger outside the fender and ive never even been looked at and i dont have flares or mudflaps

[w squared]

my XJ has nearly half the bogger outside the fender and ive never even been looked at and i dont have flares or mudflaps

Good for you dude! Just don't complain if (when?) you do get a ticket for it.

[sn4cktime]

Nobody makes a production fender that sticks out THAT much.  And I can say from experience that 4" wider fenders on each side of your JK could be an issue in and of itself.  I have River Raider tube fenders at the stock width (I've got stick out too, not as much as you though!) and I already have a hard time squeezing between some trees.  JK's are quite wide already, tires smoosh a bit, but solid fenders might get you trapped, plastic ones might tear off.

If you REALLY want total width coverage regardless of that I'd look around locally for a fab shop to make you a set, they can make a template if you remove one of your stockers.  My fenders were WAY overpriced for what I got (AKA having to redo ALL the outside welds), when I was in my buddy's shop his boss figured they would have made them for half what I paid originally.

Another route, I don't like the look of them, but might even do it myself if I get a ticket, is to install one of those bolt-on mudflap kits that have a removable bar for when wheeling.  That way you should meet the coverage specs.

Oh, and with the Xenons, anything in the flat-ish fenders makes your tires look like they stick out even more.  I know it sounds dumb because the stockers have that lip, but my fenders measure exactly the same from body to edge, but my tires look very bulged out.

Also, am totally jealous of your wheels.

[YellowJK]

Thanks again, all useful info. I might try the fab shop route, after all its some tube a flat plate and a flange for mounting,  figure I need an 7" to 8" flat arch, nylon bolts to hold in place would shear and protect the body if hung up, or maybe I've over simplified it. You're right though the Spyderlock offset makes for a very wide JK. Thanks for all your comments.G

[w squared]

Some lawn edging, a drill, and some low strength fasteners might also get you the additional coverage you need...kinda like a fender for your fenders.  

[sn4cktime]

Not so useful for the rear fenders, but in the front you can use pipe/tubing crush sleeves to tie the fenders into the sub-frame, that way they're pretty much one and the same.  So you'd only suffer body damage in something monstrously catastrophic that would likely mangle the body regardless or fender choice.

For the rear, having break-away capable fenders might be a good idea if you end up going that wide.  You'll have to add some nut-zerts / riv-nuts back there as there's not too much pinched metal to pass a bolt of any kind through.

[w squared]

Looks like you've put some thought into this. My idea was simply to use the lawn edging to extend outwards from the stock fenders for an inch or three. The attachment point would be on the inside (bottom) layer of the stock fenders...but then again I'm not in a spot where I can look at my stock fenders to see if that's feasible. 

[sn4cktime]

I think you'd be able to do it.  Here's some more info on them for you.

The front fenders are built out of three layers: outter, inner and "skeleton".  The outter goes from the little lip on the bottom outside edge all the way back to the body/subframe attatchement points which are shared by all three layers here and there.  The outter skin has plastic rivets that attatch along that same outside edge to the inner skin.  The skelton is a bizarre rib like shape that adds rididity to the entire flare (inbetween the outter and inner) and makes points for the inner skin to plastic rivet onto.  The outter skin also has little clips that run along the edge of the wheel well that hold it tight to the body.

The rear fenders are simply an outter and inner set.  They attatch together pretty much the same way on the outter edge, and share a bunch of attatchment points onto the body.  I can't 100% remember, but I think they have the outter lip clips as well to suck it tight to the body.  Pretty sure on that.

Both the front and rear should be rigid and thick enough to either plastic rivet, pop rivet or use some sort of screw into the inner skin to add any sort of plastic "flap" extender.

The stock fenders are sort of flexible and not really in a good way.  They flex enough to pop their clips out with the jeep's weight on them (so they don't crack), but not flexible enough that a person can usually get them all back in without removing the ENTIRE thing (clip first, then rest of mount points.)  So extenders will solve the coverage, but not the potential for more headaches down the road.  BUT, should keep you legal for now.   So hope that helps. 

[YellowJK]

Thanks all. G