D-rings

[Zombie]

I am just wondering what size d-rings I should get for recovery points, I know bigger is usually better, but what size do most people go with?

I picked up a few 1/2 inch ones that were rated at 2 ton's, but had a breaking limit at like 15 tons.

I am thinking I should return them and get bigger ones(with the "safe limit" at 4000 lbs), it is a bit too low I think.

any advise would be good, thanks
steve

[WhiteOut]

I have 3/4" on mine right now, a huge part of the equation is the mounting point as well.

[w squared]

Most people run 3/4" D-rings, and that will do fine for most of the loads that a Jeep will see. Also, most aftermarket bumpers only have mounting points for 3/4" d-rings. As far as a double-line snatch block pull goes, keep in mind that you've got two points of attachment to your rig - one at a D-ring, and one at the winch. That means that a 3/4" on the bumper of your rig should be fine....but like Tinkerer said, the snatch block end could potentially be handling 18 or 19 thousand pounds. That argues for a BIG shackle to use with your snatch block. I actually bought a 1 inch shackle for just that purpose.

Also look at the way that you rig your tree saver for double-line snatch block pulls like that. If you rig it choker style, you essentially cut it's rating in half. Basket style is far stronger.



I wouldn't lose any sleep over running 3/4" on your bumper...but I also think that it's worth the extra money to step up to a 7/8" D-ring if your bumpers will accommodate them. It's probably overkill, but I'd rather spend a few extra dollars and not have my recovery gear break apart under load.

The

[Zombie]

ya I have the ARB bumper on my XJ , the mounting points are not that beefy, looks like 2 pieces welded together(maybe 1/4 of an inch thick), not too sure on the size of the hole, I don't have the truck here with me right now(on stands at my girlfriends dads garage waiting for me to do work on it).

I think I will take them back and see if I can get bigger ones, I didn't really think it through that much.
I might just look for a decent kit that has a bunch of the recovery things I would need in it.

right now I have a 9000lb champion winch on the front(Maybe 8000), haven't used it yet, but the line looks to be in good shape.
I might try to see if I can buy the girlfriends dad old warn winch off him. its one of the old gm starter motor ones.
maybe swap that one into the front and put the champion one on the hitch mount for the rear if I need it for some good wheeling.

[WhiteOut]

The ARB holes are actually stronger than they look.  I have been yanked out of a hole and up a 3ft ledge from one and they held up fine. 5,000lb ZJ

[Zombie]

good to know

[w squared]

Yup. I've seen ARB bumpers take some pretty good abuse. 3/4" shackles should fit just fine.

[cLAY]

As far as a double-line snatch block pull goes, keep in mind that you've got two points of attachment to your rig - one at a D-ring, and one at the winch.

Unless you are being winched out by some else and the snatch block is attached to your bumper. Also I worry more about the forces involved  when yanking someone out with a tow strap than I do winching.


Regardless 3/4 is what I run as well.

Take the 1/2" back.

[w squared]

Unless you are being winched out by some else and the snatch block is attached to your bumper.

Very true. I didn't think of it from that angle...but I still wouldn't really get nervous about having that snatch block on a 3/4" shackle if that's what will fit on your bumper.

Take the 1/2" back.

Absolutely.

[apex]

5/8" to 3/4". I use 5/8 all the time to hang tonnes of equipment above people's heads. See: Entertainment industry rigging.

The real concern you should have is determining the manufacturing country. China is notorious for not testing their products. USA built and test is required in our biz.

Shackle failure is almost always due to impropper loading of the eye. Static load is always on the screw-pin, moving or shock load on the eye between the 45 degree angles. If the shackle is marked with 45's, chances are it isn't a properly rated.

[sn4cktime]

I've seen some pretty sketchy shackle-mounts on vehicles.... was going to help a guy pull his truck out once, took one look at the welds on the mount and told him to call a tow rig.  I wasn't having the end of my line coming back at me.

[w squared]

This kind of stuff is why we did a winching/pulling course at the 101 and why perhaps a few of us with knowledge etc. should perhaps put together a handout on winching/pulling which covers increased loading due to angles, mud etc., the angles on pulls, using snatch blocks for multiplication, change of direction etc. that we can hand out to our members and whomever comes on the 101.  There are some materials I have found (mostly military), but they all could have more detail as far as I'm concerned.  Granted, I haven't had a rigging course.

Count me in.  I haven't had a rigging course either, but I do have a rope rescue ticket...and I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express one time 

I can't commit to volunteering at the 101 yet as I don't know if I'll be in the country at that point in time, but I'd be happy to start building a syllabus and putting together both a "bare bones" handout and assemble the information for a more in-depth "this is what you should know" item on recovery.

I'm a sucker for a project. Quick...Waytec...rope me into this before I figure out how much work it might be

[apex]

The part of what you say that makes me go "huh?" is where you say where to put the loading.  If the shackle is connecting two items and there is a dynamic load on the one end, then since the purpose of the shackle is to transfer load, there is a dynamic load on the other end. Usually we rig with the "fixed point" on the pin and the "moving point" on the eye, perhaps that's what you meant and it was just the wording that was different.

Moving loads have the (extremely unlikely)  potential of loosening the pin and unscrewing it, hence the need to have static loads on pin. Think if it were rope, if you had enough friction and weight moving on the pin, the pin "could" unscrew. Put a moving load on the eye and it doesn't threaten a pin failure.

When it comes to rigging, failure is not an option. Remove as many variables as possible to reduce the risk of failure.

This kind of stuff is why we did a winching/pulling course at the 101 and why perhaps a few of us with knowledge etc. should perhaps put together a handout on winching/pulling which covers increased loading due to angles, mud etc., the angles on pulls, using snatch blocks for multiplication, change of direction etc. that we can hand out to our members and whomever comes on the 101.  There are some materials I have found (mostly military), but they all could have more detail as far as I'm concerned.  Granted, I haven't had a rigging course.

If you really wanted to learn waaaay more than you need, you could read more about entertainment industry rigging or take a rigging course from the local IATSE.

Truth be told, every "rigger" has a different way of doing his job. There are no "standards", just best practices.