CV joint Maintenance

[Tagg]

Maintenance schedule says "inspect" CV joints.  What do you look for for signs of wear?  How do you do it?

[w squared]

Driveshafts have CV joints on a JK 

[w squared]

Yup. If (when?) I do have to replace a driveshaft, there won't be any CV joints on the new one 

That said, there's a company out there making cromoly axle shafts for the JK Dana 44. They've got a CV style joint instead of a U joint...and a lifetime warranty. You break it, they send you a new one. They must have some sorta faith in their product to offer that 

[Tagg]

Interestingly enough, there are three CV's and one universal joint at the front axle differential.  Not sure why?

[w squared]

Interestingly enough, there are three CV's and one universal joint at the front axle differential.  Not sure why?

Something doesn't quite compute with that math. Three CV's and a U joint?

[w squared]

Stock JK front driveshaft.

Ignore the fancy yellow skid plate 

One U-joint, one CV joint.



Stock JK rear driveshaft.

Two CV joints.

I see where those totals came from now...I didn't quite get what you were saying earlier, Tagg. For some reason, I read that as you saying there were three CV's and a U-joint between the transfer case and the front diff.

All I can say is that when the time comes for new driveshafts on my JK (which is just a matter of time now that I'm lifted), there will be six u-joints and no CV joints being installed.

[Tagg]

I have 3 1/2" lift so we'll see how they last.  Visually  they did seem ok. Boots intact and the angles didn't look bad at all.  I was interested in your negative view of CV joints.
They are putting them in the GC jeeps as well.  Maybe it's for economic reasons. I only have 3800 KM and still on warranty (Ihope) so I won't worry for a while.  I just thought I would do the maintenance after pulling that post pounder through the woods!!  AND before the run this saturday
Jim

[w squared]

Do you have an auto transmission or a six speed?

If you have an auto, take a very close look at where the boot on the front driveshaft touches the tranny skid plate at full droop. It may already be torn. If not, I'd be tempted to notch the skid plate where it will contact the front driveshaft boot.

Also, I would not be surprised if the driveline angles that you're seeing on a 2 door with a 3 1/2" lift substantially shorten the life of your rear driveshaft. That may or may not be covered under warranty.

Adjustable upper rear control arms will help with this, but you may find yourself springing for a double-cardan (all u-joint) style rear driveshaft sooner rather than later.

[Tagg]

Its a six speed.  But thanks .  I'll have another look tonight.  I'm trying to learn what I can and watch wear because I've found that warranty doesn't exist because the dealers don't seem to be able to find problems and always have something extra that's not on warranty.  The classic was when I paid $100 for a gas cap.  And it didn't solve the problem!!!
I'll have to jack it up on the frame to see what happens on full extension?  Probably release the sway bar on the front at the same time?

[w squared]

If you've got a six speed, your front driveshaft shouldn't have that rub issue. It only seems to happen with auto transmissions, because the tranny skidplate/crossmember is shaped differently for each type of transmission.

Running 3.5" of lift will probably shorten the lift of both driveshafts just by increasing your driveline angles...but it's not something that I'd worry too much about yet. I wouldn't bet on them being covered by warranty when they do go though...changing the driveline angles does put extra strain on the CV joints.