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Author Topic: centerforce clutch  (Read 2348 times)

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Offline comanche killer

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  • Aaron
centerforce clutch
« on: December 22, 2009, 06:38:49 PM »
Iam looking  at clutchs for my grand I'am puting an ax15 out of a 91 yj in it just want some feedback
95 3/4 ton Chev  dailydriver/heavy hauler
97 green MZJ custom 4link rear/3link front, FF 14 bolt rear welded, D 60 front, ax-15, np-231,custom rollcage, half doors, PSC hydro assist 14"kings 40"boggers

Offline Waytec

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Re: centerforce clutch
« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2009, 07:16:15 PM »
I have one and have abused the heck out of it. they don't act like a normal clutch. You have to think like a drag racer with them. very short throw and a lot of pedal travel.
Why does your Jeep say Toyota on it?
The obstacle is the path.

Offline JackstandJohnny

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Re: centerforce clutch
« Reply #2 on: December 22, 2009, 08:38:39 PM »
aaron, AW4 out of a XJ will bolt right up too.  google it, theres a way to wire it up to work with OBDII  be better than a beat AX15 ;)
~ rescue green JKUR on 35s.  typical rubicon build

Offline morerpmfred

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Re: centerforce clutch
« Reply #3 on: December 22, 2009, 09:28:04 PM »
I,ve had three of them over the years. pros clutch does not slip , ever. You can not break it. Cons You will break parts like ujoints as it is hard on driveline as clutch does not slip ever. Lots of pressure on the diaphragm [sp] so eventually the fingers bend in and the clutch does not disengage fully and then it is hard to shiftand you wearout tranny input bearings and main shaft. that is why there is lots of pedal travel. If I was to put one in again the most i would go is center force one , definitely not centerforce 2, and i would put in an aftermarket clutch cylinder both the slave and master and stainless hydraulic clutch line such as sold by advance adapters. If there is anything weak or marginal in the drivetrain the centre force 2 will show you it on the first day wheeling.

Offline FiEND

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Re: centerforce clutch
« Reply #4 on: December 22, 2009, 09:36:54 PM »
"fingers bend in and the clutch does not disengage fully and then it is hard to shiftand you wearout tranny input bearings and main shaft. that is why there is lots of pedal travel"

explains mine pretty well.  my next one probably won't be another centerforce.
1Wide2High
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'97 TJ [sold]
'17 JK Rubicon

Offline morerpmfred

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Re: centerforce clutch
« Reply #5 on: December 22, 2009, 09:42:11 PM »
also the factory plastic line expands with age, and with everytime you use it. Right now on a cold start i double clutch and it is easy to shift just putting it in first gear.
 Sometimes a stock clutch that slips a lttle saves you parts$
If you are running a healther stroker moter or thinking about it you may want to go centerforce just so the clutch does not slip.
« Last Edit: December 22, 2009, 09:44:53 PM by morerpmfred »

Offline tubby

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Re: centerforce clutch
« Reply #6 on: December 23, 2009, 01:53:00 AM »
I was told several times from different speed shops that the Centerforce Gold (stage one) was not worth the money. Stage two was marginal, and that the Dual-Friction or stage 3 was the bees knees. I have mixed feelings on it. Poor modulation. It's either on or it's off. Takes a while to get used to. It's a little stiff for shifting on the trail for my tastes.  You can't go wrong with a good replacement clutch from the Dealership. I've had good luck with Sachs and LUK clutch assemblies as well.
Lockers
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Offline tubby

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Re: centerforce clutch
« Reply #7 on: December 23, 2009, 02:03:17 AM »
You can not break it.

I doubt that Andy. I've got what's left of a Centerforce Dual-Friction hanging on my wall in the garage next to twisted driveshafts and other carnage. My 84 Mercury Capri and it's 302 killed one  at Racecity last year. The little weights flew off and took a lot of my T-5's bellhousing with it.

I'm sure a 5.2 will have better luck keeping one alive though.
Lockers
Cuz ya can't kick arse with only one leg

Offline morerpmfred

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Re: centerforce clutch
« Reply #8 on: December 24, 2009, 05:37:00 PM »
Ouch, any pieces come through the floorboards ?
 When i used to do the sand drags i ran a luk clutch in my d50 ,  launched at 7000 rpm and shifted at 7 as well . Best time was 6.9 seconds in a hundred yards . would replace clutch every 2 years due to clutch slippage :) It had a ten inch clutch and the ax15 has an eleven I believe.  So you might be better of with a luk. Main reason i went with a stock clutch was cause the slippage at launch would be easy on the driveline. Later on I put in a centre force [ never raced it ]and it worked great esp at low speed over the rocks and low speed crawling as there was no slippage  IE first gear ,low range .idle through the rough stuff. But it has its fall backs.  The most i would go is a centre force one as it have half the weights on it.

Offline comanche killer

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Re: centerforce clutch
« Reply #9 on: December 24, 2009, 08:39:43 PM »
aaron, AW4 out of a XJ will bolt right up too.  google it, theres a way to wire it up to work with OBDII  be better than a beat AX15 ;)


I didn't want another auto
You shoud know me by now I think outside the BOX and coustmize and plus i put the ax-15 in my XJ throw some crap (learned to drive manual in that thing did alot of wheelin with that jeep aswell/ back when I had a real heavy foot.  and its about to roll over 400,000 klm on the trans and t-case  vrs the auto in my grand only got to 170,000klm

thanks for all the help guys. I think I might have to put the build on hold as my boss told my that  I  start school at S.A.I.T  in febuary for my first year automotive service aka no extra money for parts   :( :( :( :'( :'( :'(   

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95 3/4 ton Chev  dailydriver/heavy hauler
97 green MZJ custom 4link rear/3link front, FF 14 bolt rear welded, D 60 front, ax-15, np-231,custom rollcage, half doors, PSC hydro assist 14"kings 40"boggers