Bed Liner?

[01sahara]

One other product to look at is the Raptor Bedliner. It is more costly but has really good reviews as one of the best product you can buy to spray on.  We did the interior of my jeep and 75% of the exterior in it. It is holding up well after a year. We also sprayed a coat of  gloss black automotive epoxy over it as a tack coat. You can scratch the top layer but it has kept the bedliner from getting that dull grey look.

Nice work Dan. I would agree with Dan. Do the grill but also the front of the hood and the front edge on the fenders. 

[Knox]

what kind of prep work is associated with grill/hood/bumper spraying?

[SilverTJ]

I know when I got it done I removed the bumper, the lights, the flares, and most of the hardware holding the fenders and the rad to the grill.  Beyond that I know the area needs to be clean and the paint scuffed for adhesion.  And mask everything really well because the liner needs to be sprayed from a greater distance than paint so there is a lot of overspray.

[PITBULL]

the grill is a pain but fix any rust you may have scuff it prep it theres is not such thing as over preping or cleaning and then spray you need a special gun and befor you spray check the air pressure

[cablesmurf]

Yup, you need a Shutz gun and a couple empty Shutz cans and your pressure needs to be around 30 - 40 psi depending on the texture you desire. Prep is 90% of the work and the most important step. It will make the difference between a shat job and a great job. It's like they say in the paint biz, your paint job is only as good as the guy behind the gun...

[LLYJ]

I am spraying in my duplicolour liner tomorrow.  I noticed the nozzle part of the gun is adjustable so my question is should I position the nozzle so the gun is as "long" as possible, will this reduce overspray, or is it better to leave a wide pattern, and increase overlap on the spray pattern and have to nozzle as short as possible.

Unfortuneately I only picked up one empty shutz can so I guess I'll have to reload pretty quick or do the job in sections - I suspect since the duplicolour is premixed so that won't be such a big problem.

I bought an extra can so may do the inside of the trunk of my fire chicken too, also an axe handle too while I'm at it. (just to see how well that works)

Finally got the reccomended temps tomorrow so any advice would be appreciated.  Thanks

[cablesmurf]

Try a test spot. Pick the position you like best. Use lots of drop cloths...that shat gets everywhere.

Because the duplicolor is a premix, it doesn't dry too quickly, so you'll have lots of time to reload. Be patient and take your time. Do multiple thin coats. don't cake it on.

good luck.

[Dracitamo]

pulling up an old thread as it's been discussed in a few threads but they are pretty old. Looking for any updated information on this if anyone has any advice.
I called Line-X today and they told me it would cost 5 grand and they aren't willing to do it. (I wouldn't pay 5 grand for this anyway)
I'm looking to rip my carpet out and all the felt above and line it with "something". (just to keep it clean looking and the look I want) I will also be building a custom tool box that is removeable that I will want coated with something to make it a little more durable and possibly a custom sub box.
Does anyone have any advice on the materials that are available in todays market and what holds up the best?
Sending Dan a PM but open to others advice.

[specialk]

I have used Shake n Shoot before.  Not as thick as Line-X but you could build it up and it is more brittle and prone to chipping, but a kits is around 80-100 bones so you could use 2 or 3 and and only be in for 300 or so for the interior

[Spinalguy]

pulling up an old thread as it's been discussed in a few threads but they are pretty old. Looking for any updated information on this if anyone has any advice.
I called Line-X today and they told me it would cost 5 grand and they aren't willing to do it. (I wouldn't pay 5 grand for this anyway)
I'm looking to rip my carpet out and all the felt above and line it with "something". (just to keep it clean looking and the look I want) I will also be building a custom tool box that is removeable that I will want coated with something to make it a little more durable and possibly a custom sub box.
Does anyone have any advice on the materials that are available in todays market and what holds up the best?
Sending Dan a PM but open to others advice.

you will strip the interior and than you want it sprayed to below windows i assume as well as a tool box? Do i have that right?
Maybe be more descriptive of the vehicle and what exactly you want done.
My entire interior stripped jeep was brought to line-x and including the wheel wells for less than a grand.

[Dingleberry]

On my last XJ I just used a $10 can of Rocker Guard from Canadian Tire. 1 can coated everything underneath the carpet (except in the hatch area).
I plan on doing the same thing with my current XJ.

[Dracitamo]

Thanks for the replies. I'm looking to coat a 97 XJ (2 door). Yes, below the windows as you stated, but I want to remove the felt up above and do something to the roof inside the jeep. Probably the backside of the rear seat when it's down. Or I may have to get some custom seats for the rear. It's just an idea and if I can't then I won't but less stuff to collect water the better. I will be swapping out the seats for some seats Jay has me sold on. I just need to stop drinking beers after work so I can afford them.   Is there any legal thing about the rear seats? Can I remove the bench and put two individual seats?

Shake and shoot - if it's prone to chipping, I don't want it. I want something that can take a diff sliding across it.

Reason for wanting to do this: after a wheeling trip and covered in mud, or blood from animals when going hunting, I want to be able to take it to a car wash or just hose it down in the back lane. So with the felt out from the roof, I won't have to worry about it getting soaked when I spray it down. I know I can't do the hatch without some major modifications to it and I'm still debating it and planning that all out, but I might get something fabbed up to cover everything and allow space for speakers and wires. I have a few idea's, I just have to think them through and draft them up.

Toolbox: Yes, I was thinking about making a custom toolbox that was removeable and came up to the height of the seats in the rear. Adjustable placement, and 3 sections. Kinda like a sectional couch but better latching system to keep them secured.

I know what I want is going to run me a pretty penny, but I'm okay with that. Just was looking for idea's what to use for the coating. (if anyone does any sheet metal fab work and would be interested in working something out, it would be good to see if what I'm thinking is even possible.)

[Dingleberry]

Remember you could always buy marine-speakers (waterproof) to replace the stock ones.
As for the hatch I'd remove the plastic panel to access all the wiring, use die-electric grease on any multi-sockets and silicone anything else, then put the plastic panel back on (after coating the metal with bedliner of course).

[Spinalguy]

Thanks for the replies. I'm looking to coat a 97 XJ (2 door). Yes, below the windows as you stated, but I want to remove the felt up above and do something to the roof inside the jeep. Probably the backside of the rear seat when it's down. Or I may have to get some custom seats for the rear. It's just an idea and if I can't then I won't but less stuff to collect water the better. I will be swapping out the seats for some seats Jay has me sold on. I just need to stop drinking beers after work so I can afford them.  Is there any legal thing about the rear seats? Can I remove the bench and put two individual seats?

Shake and shoot - if it's prone to chipping, I don't want it. I want something that can take a diff sliding across it.

Reason for wanting to do this: after a wheeling trip and covered in mud, or blood from animals when going hunting, I want to be able to take it to a car wash or just hose it down in the back lane. So with the felt out from the roof, I won't have to worry about it getting soaked when I spray it down. I know I can't do the hatch without some major modifications to it and I'm still debating it and planning that all out, but I might get something fabbed up to cover everything and allow space for speakers and wires. I have a few idea's, I just have to think them through and draft them up.

Toolbox: Yes, I was thinking about making a custom toolbox that was removeable and came up to the height of the seats in the rear. Adjustable placement, and 3 sections. Kinda like a sectional couch but better latching system to keep them secured.

I know what I want is going to run me a pretty penny, but I'm okay with that. Just was looking for idea's what to use for the coating. (if anyone does any sheet metal fab work and would be interested in working something out, it would be good to see if what I'm thinking is even possible.)

if you strip the interior, i am sure i can get you a good price on line-x. i like durability as well. my line x in my truck regularly sees spike tire in and out. Not even  mark.
i can arrange for you to see Craig and get a proper price.

[specialk]

Line X is top notch...   hands down winner when outsourcing.... 

Just for clarification on shake and shoot... i have used it on my bumper.  When it meets Oldsmobiles and boulders, it chips.   It has held up other than that.  for a DIY,  you can't beat it.  For the interior, as I said, it sprays thin as most DIYs do.  Multiple coats and you will be happy, and brag that you diy'd it..   Prep and you should have no problems.

I will be shooting the inside of my rig and the sons MJ with Shake n Shoot....   If my boy could afford a Line X job in the truck bed of the MJ, I would highly recommend it...  on  a budget....  it will be a DIY job and suffer the patches when needed...