The one that packed it in on mine must have been the inside contacts, because it clicks, but no current gets through.
For the series-wound (no permanent magnet) winches (think 3 wires to the motor [f1, f2, A], not 2), here is the motor test procedure:
Warn Motor Testing Procedure
If you find yourself in a situation where your winch is clicking but it is not working, you may have a motor problem....or you may have a solenoid problem. The following procedure, from Warn, will help you determine the status of your winch motor.
1. Put the winch in freespool.
2. Disconnect the positive lead from the battery (leave the ground lead attached).
3. Label and disconnect the three cables that run from the control pack to the three posts on the motor.
4. Stamped next to the three posts on the motor will be "A", "F1" and "F2". Run a small jumper wire (5"-6" dead lead, 8 ga. will work just fine) from "A" to "F1" and put power from the battery (jumper cables work good) to "F2". The winch motor should run in one direction at this time.
5. Next, place the jumper wire from "A" to "F2" and put power from the battery to "F1". The winch motor should run in the opposite direction at this time.
If these steps are followed correctly and the motor runs in both directions, the motor is good.
If the motor is good, then the solenoids that are active should have very little to no voltage drop across them. Measure across the large terminals with the good motor hooked up and them activated. The active one(s) with voltage are bad. The inactive ones will have voltage! Try the other direction to test the other two solenoids if necessary.
Since the solenoids on the XD9000i require pulling the case apart, I'm considering some externally mounted ones. I suspect that any continuous-duty 400A rated solenoids would work (lol).